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  1. #1
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    I need a tool to remove this...

    Just received my Micargi bike basket and I need to attach iCAM00021.jpgt to the part where the handle inserts into. What size wrench/tool would you suggest?

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    Senior Member Hoshnasi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PlusVeggie27 View Post
    Just received my Micargi bike basket and I need to attach iCAM00021.jpgt to the part where the handle inserts into. What size wrench/tool would you suggest?
    If you are refering to the nut on the top, it's called a crown nut. I used a pair of channel locks to remove the nut. I applied vinyl tape to prevent surface scratches.

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    Member NZXTInerTia's Avatar
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    The handle bars are attached to the stem, the stem is the piece that is inserted into the fork tube. Just use a crescent wrench to remove the crown nut.
    Custom 96' Giant ATX 760

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    I may or may not need to remove the other one underneath as well. Thanks btw.

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    Bianchi Goddess Bianchigirll's Avatar
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    You actually need two 32mm Headset wrenches. One headset wrench and a big adjustable or channel locks will do the trick though.

    You can't remove the bottom nut as the bearing race is attached to it. i am not sure what part you are installing there but there seems like there is little room for anything but that washer.

    Bianchis '87 Sport SX, '90 Proto (2), '91 Boarala 'cross, '93 Project 3, '88 Trofeo, '86 Volpe, '89 Axis, '79 Mixte SOLD, '99 Mega Pro XL Ti, '97 Ti Megatube, , '90 something Vento 603,

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    Im installing the part that connects to the basket. http://www.jbikes.net/micargi-bs-28-...ite-p-318.html

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    Senior Member Homebrew01's Avatar
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    Looks like you need to remove the top nut and washer, then use the bracket instead of the washer, then reinstall the top nut.
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    Why two wrenches? Thanks for all of the responses BTW.

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    Senior Member gyozadude's Avatar
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    Two wrenches allows one to hold the top crown and the cup in diametrically opposed force. This will allow the middle washer (to be replaced by the basket bracket), to stay put. Even with keyed lock rings, if too much force is applied on just the crown nut, and the bottom isn't held, the keyed washer will spin and wear the key groove in the threaded steerer.

    That said, not all threaded headsets are uniformly 32mm top and bottom. Some have 32 top/36mm bottom, and some are 36/36 and some are 36/40 or even 40/40. So you may need some different sizes too, if the bottom is not the same size as the top. Sometimes, you might only need one thinner headset wrench on the bottom, and a big adjustable crescent on top.

    Channel locks can work, but they scratch up the finish and don't give you good leverage to torque down the nuts to each other.
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    Senior Member Chombi's Avatar
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    Try to avoid using tools like channel lock or vice grip wrenches if you can except as a last resort or in emergency situations as they still tend to damage component flats and finishes even if you try to pad things with tape. In fact, sometimes tape will make it harder for you to get a good grip on the part to apply enough torque to remove it or properly install it to proper tightness. The likeliness of the improper tool slipping off the part and damging it and other parts next to it is much higher too.
    Some of these flat wrenches you will need to service items like your headset are usually cheap enough to make them worthwhile investments if you plan to keep your bikes for a long time.
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    Last edited by Chombi; 06-19-12 at 10:20 PM.

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    Senior Member DannoXYZ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PlusVeggie27 View Post
    Why two wrenches? Thanks for all of the responses BTW.
    Not so much for removing, as you can get by with one and use the handlebars to hold the fork steady. But you will definitely need 2 to re-install. One to hold the adjustable-cup steady in the proper bearing-preload position. Then a 2nd to tighten down the locknut on top. You can get by with one if you use keyed washers in between, but they introduce some problems and the high-end bikes & headsets never cut a groove into the steerer-tube or use keyed washers for many reasons.

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    Senior Member rydabent's Avatar
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    Some head set nuts are as large as 36MM. You will need at least one thin headset wrench. A cresent can be used on the top nut.

    Two wrenches will be needed to retighten to proper clearance of the headset bearings.

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    Senior Member IthaDan's Avatar
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    Those are two different sizes. For the top one, a 12" or larger crescent (adjustable) wrench will work, for the bottom one, you need to figure out what size it is, then pick up a "spanner", which is a thinner wrench which will allow you to turn the two independently without the wrenches hitting eachother.

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    Okay so I'm going to order some wrenches online, so I need a 12 inch crescent so far. Btw, how do I measure or figure out the size headset wrench I need. I'm hoping they sell kits with all the different sizes.

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    Is this type okay http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bicycle-Head...item483ec6e398 ? Its a 32, 34, 36, 40 in one. Each side has two sizes, or is it necessary I have two spanners with only one size on each side?

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    Is a 12 inch adjustable big enough or should I get something bigger?

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    I hope you have not yet ordered the wrenches, because folks are making a potentially simple, inexpensive change into a costly boondoggle. There's a big difference between the proper way to do a job and a way that works.

    Removal: Keep the wheel mounted and stand in front of the bike with your legs on either side to keep the wheel/fork from turning. Loosen the top nut (yes, 12 in adjustable should be fine). You do not need to hold onto the bottom one. The tabbed washer underneath will be sufficient to isolate the turning force, and I've never seen on tear out when loosening vs. tightening. Remove the nut and washer.

    Intallation/adjustment: Place the basket bracket on the fork column and then screw on the top nut. Make sure the bracket is aligned straight ahead and hold onto it to prevent it from turning while you tighten the top nut firmly. Doing so will serve to isolate the movement of the top nut from the bottom piece. I would advise you to be careful in tightening, as the bracket seems to be thicker than the washer you are replacing, so there are not a lot of threads holding on the top nut.

    Odds are high that the bearing will be in proper adjustment if it was beforehand. If not just back off the nut, tighten/loosen the bottom piece a bit by hand or with careful use of a channellock and retighten the top nut.

    Done.

    Or, you can take it to a shop with the bracket and ask them to replace the washer with the bracket.

    Either way is much less expensive than buying tools you will likely not need again.
    Last edited by cny-bikeman; 06-23-12 at 06:29 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by cny-bikeman View Post
    I hope you have not yet ordered the wrenches, because folks are making a potentially simple, inexpensive change into a costly boondoggle. There's a big difference between the proper way to do a job and a way that works.

    Removal: Keep the wheel mounted and stand in front of the bike with your legs on either side to keep the wheel/fork from turning. Loosen the top nut (yes, 12 in adjustable should be fine). You do not need to hold onto the bottom one. The tabbed washer underneath will be sufficient to isolate the turning force, and I've never seen on tear out when loosening vs. tightening. Remove the nut and washer.

    Intallation/adjustment: Place the basket bracket on the fork column and then screw on the top nut. Make sure the bracket is aligned straight ahead and hold onto it to prevent it from turning while you tighten the top nut firmly. Doing so will serve to isolate the movement of the top nut from the bottom piece. I would advise you to be careful in tightening, as the bracket seems to be thicker than the washer you are replacing, so there are not a lot of threads holding on the top nut.

    Odds are high that the bearing will be in proper adjustment if it was beforehand. If not just back off the nut, tighten/loosen the bottom piece a bit by hand or with careful use of a channellock and retighten the top nut.

    Done.

    Or, you can take it to a shop with the bracket and ask them to replace the washer with the bracket.

    Either way is much less expensive than buying tools you will likely not need again.
    No I haven't bought the tools yet. I was going to head to the hardware store that was by my house. There's no bike shop in my area, it would be quite a journey, and they would probably charge me the same price as the tools. If I'm lucky the hardware store might help me out for free. I'll keep yall posted and Thanks for your detailed advice.

  19. #19
    Senior Member IthaDan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PlusVeggie27 View Post
    Is this type okay http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bicycle-Head...item483ec6e398 ? Its a 32, 34, 36, 40 in one. Each side has two sizes, or is it necessary I have two spanners with only one size on each side?
    This and a 12" crescent (10" gets frustratingly close to 32mm, but not quite) are all you need. I had this pairing for years, the 32/34/36/40 worked great for holding preload while the crescent hauled the locknut down.

    It'll be worth the investment.

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    Great - you don't really need any specialized tools at all if you follow the above instructions. Anyone handy should be able to do this in about 5 min's or so.

  21. #21
    Bianchi Goddess Bianchigirll's Avatar
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    I have been busy and not following this thread closely. I still say there is not enough steerer on that fork to allow this bracket to be attached. It looks like it is twice as thick as the washer, so if you remove the washer you still end with less than optimal thread contact in the topnut. This will not only cause the HS to be loose but can lead to damage tot he steerer/fork itself.
    Last edited by Bianchigirll; 06-23-12 at 02:10 PM.
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    Yes, it it thicker, which is why I cautioned about tightening. However, I would say it amounts to about one thread difference, and the top portion of the cap nut is typically not threaded anyway.

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    I ended up going to a bike shop by my grandma. Turns out the piece for the basket had to be dremmeled so they charged me ten dollars more, so twenty in total. My bikes tube size was 1.8 something, while the basket piece was 1, I think it was inches in diameter. If I needed a headset I would of needed a 36. The guy forgot to give me back the washer just in case for any reason I'd remove the basket, but I don't see that happening anytime soon. How much are washers anyway? Would I need it in the future, I am sure the answer is yes, I just want to make sure.

  24. #24
    Senior Member bikeman715's Avatar
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    yes you will need it if and when you remove the basket . depending on the shop you goes to , it can be for free or no more that a dollar or two for the replacement.
    bikeman715

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    bike whisperer Kimmo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
    You can get by with one if you use keyed washers in between, but they introduce some problems and the high-end bikes & headsets never cut a groove into the steerer-tube or use keyed washers for many reasons.
    I don't know about never; I've seen quite a few rather nice old-school framesets in my time, and grooveless threaded steerers are a rare sight IME.

    Nicer threaded headsets feature a raised lip around the keyed washer to prevent the tab popping up over the threads, and it works a treat; single-spanner operation is possible in a pinch with such headsets (but involves a little more trial and error due to the play of the washer in the groove).

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