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  1. #1
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    Help Adding an Internal Hub to a Globe Daily 1 Bike

    2011-specialized-globe-daily-1-02.jpg

    Could use a little help guys.

    I recently purchased a Globe Daily 1 Bike which is just a one speed, and I would like to eventually add a 3 speed Sturmey Archer hub.

    I just dont know if there is a specific model that I need to get or will any SA hub do.

    Here are the specs of the Globe Daily 1:

    Frame Globe A1 Premium aluminum
    Fork Globe steel
    Rims/Wheels Alex Z-1000, 700c
    Hubs Forged aluminum high flange, rear: flip-flop
    Spokes 14-gauge stainless-steel
    Tires Specialized Infinity, 700 x 28c w/Flak Jacket puncture protection
    Crankset Aluminum
    Chainwheel 42T
    Rear Cogs 16T
    Handlebars Fast City aluminum
    Tape/Grips Globe City
    Stem Aluminum
    Brake Levers Caliper
    Brakes Caliper
    Pedals Platform
    Saddle Globe Daily men's 155mm width
    Seat Post Aluminum
    Accessories & Extras Daily Zeppelin steel fenders, chain catcher

  2. #2
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    The critical dimension is the width of the rear dropouts: outer <corrected below> should be inner! surface (called the Over-Locknut Distance).
    Current model S-RF3 comes in 175, 163 and 148mm axle length. The more basic steel shell AW is cheaper. Other models have hub brake fittings.
    You need to have room for the large tracknuts. Since you will probably need to have the hub built into a wheel, consider outsourcing the problem to a decent bike shop.
    Last edited by MichaelW; 07-09-12 at 11:19 AM.

  3. #3
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    +1, just to clarify, The dropout width is measured between the inside of the dropouts, or outside of the axle locknuts, and usually abbreviated OLD. Don't confuse this with axle length which is typically about 40mm longer to allow for the dropout thickness, washers, and mounting nuts. So the 175mm long axle version is probably for a 135mm frame, but don't assume anything. Shop hubs by OLD and credit the makers with the sense to have enough axle beyond that (they all do).
    FB
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    An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

    “Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin

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  4. #4
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    Thanks for all of your help guys. I really appreciate it.

    I went ahead and measured the inner length and it is exactly 120mm.

    Which axel length do I need? :: scratches head ::

    I saw a couple of them on ebay and online for about 60-90 bucks.

  5. #5
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    you need an overall axle length of about 160mm. 120 over the locknuts + 2x8mm for the thickness of the dropouts, +2x12mm for the nuts and washers. Slightly longer is OK too, but check the specs for the over-lucknut-distance (OLD) because hat's the key.
    FB
    Chain-L site

    An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

    “Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin

    “One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

    WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.

  6. #6
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    Awesome. Thanks FbinNY. I will keep you guys posted once I get it installed.

  7. #7
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    I did a little browsing and found these two options:

    S3X
    http://www.sturmey-archer.com/produc.../id/47/specs/1
    120mm OLD and 164mm axel length

    and

    S-RF3
    http://www.sturmey-archer.com/produc.../id/17/specs/1
    117mm OLD and 163mm axel length

    Would the 117mm OLD on the S-RF3 be too short? Does it have to fit perfectly?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by yoshimune8 View Post

    Would the 117mm OLD on the S-RF3 be too short? Does it have to fit perfectly?
    I'm curious as to why the S-RF3 has an OLD 3mm short of a well established standard. It doesn't matter because there's plenty of axle, so you could always add a spacer if you want, and 3mm wouldn't make a difference anyway.

    As to why it's 3mm short, 2 possibilities come to mind (speculation only). Possibly the hub includes an anti rotation washer which is 3mm thick and goes inside the dropout. Or they' left it 3mm short so you could add it back on either side (or split it) to optimize chainline. Either way, both hubs will work, and you can sweat the fine details when fitting one.
    Last edited by FBinNY; 07-09-12 at 09:12 PM.
    FB
    Chain-L site

    An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

    “Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin

    “One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

    WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.

  9. #9
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    I've decided on the the S-RF3 since the S3X is only a fixed gear which I am not a big fan of...

    I really do love the black color on the S3X though...

  10. #10
    Senior member Dan Burkhart's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by yoshimune8 View Post
    I've decided on the the S-RF3 since the S3X is only a fixed gear which I am not a big fan of...

    I really do love the black color on the S3X though...
    Well, you can run the S3X in freewheel mode by screwing on a single speed freewheel. You'll have a hub that costs about twice as much as the SRF3, and has less overall gear range, but if the color is important, well, you make the call. Also, it gives you the option to switch to fixed if you ever decide to.
    Word of warning, I have a S3X, and ride it as a fixed gear, and it can be addictive.
    Gearhubs demystified and other cool stuff.


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  11. #11
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    At the end of the day the color is not really that important...I just want something that works and that is not too expensive.

    The main issue I am having now is that it is very difficult to find either the SRF3 or the S3X in a 32 hole configuration. I dont even think SA makes the SRF3 with 32 holes :/

    I may have to end up settling for the S2C 2 speed kick shift...which I can find for about $68...

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