Asymmetric bb to symmetric bb: compensating for chainline?
Hi,
I'm considering using some older Dura Ace 7402 cranks. I thought I had the chainline figured out for my particular build, but then realized when i rechecked the Sheldon Brown archive (http://sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html#shimano) that the original bottom bracket for these cranks was asymmetric. The original BB was 112mm, but had 3mm extra on the right side. So, as I'm figuring out the chainline using a new symmetric BB, does the extra 3mm mean that I should compensate in my measurements by pretending that the original BB was 115mm? Seems like that would be the logical thing to do, but I'm not quite sure. Thanks for any clarification. |
I just use a spacer (placed under the fixed cup), and then use the same length spindle on the new bb. Your LBS should have a variety of spacers, I keep a stash of them on hand myself. I almost exclusively work on vintage bikes, and asymmetric bb were the norm.
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Originally Posted by wrk101
(Post 14463079)
I just use a spacer (placed under the fixed cup), and then use the same length spindle on the new bb. Your LBS should have a variety of spacers, I keep a stash of them on hand myself. I almost exclusively work on vintage bikes, and asymmetric bb were the norm.
Does that make sense? |
Originally Posted by Face Palm
(Post 14463059)
The original BB was 112mm, but had 3mm extra on the right side.... does the extra 3mm mean that I should compensate in my measurements by pretending that the original BB was 115mm?
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If you are going to set it up single on the outer ring position you want the ring 3mm closer than it's position as a double, more like 109. If you get the spindle too short on some frames using a double spider the inner offset will hit. Like Bill said you can always use a spacer to help.
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FWIW, Phil Wood Co has a tight press fit between the axle and the bearing ID.
but it can be pressed sideways, by using the crank bolt and spacers like the 2 installation tools, by hand .. to get the chainline exactly spot-on.. if you make it short , shim washers around the bolts between the Chainring and the crank spider.. are another adjustment. |
fietsbob: I wish I could afford a Phil Wood...I'll probably be looking at something like an IRD.
Originally Posted by peugeot mongrel
(Post 14463736)
If you are going to set it up single on the outer ring position you want the ring 3mm closer than it's position as a double, more like 109. If you get the spindle too short on some frames using a double spider the inner offset will hit. Like Bill said you can always use a spacer to help.
So if the original outer ring on the 7402 was about 47mm with a 112 BB with 3mm extra from the asymmetry, then going by my calculations and the info the other posters have given, a new, symmetrical 115mm BB would give me the 47mm chainline I need (give or take about .5mm). Would you guys say that is correct? |
Give it a try and measure. In addition to the overall width of the BB-spindle, the diameter of the taper actually varies at the tip. That means a 115mm spindle from one maker would have the crankarm sit further up the spindle than a 115mm spindle from another manufacturer. So even with exact same spindle-length, you may see chainline of 46 with one BB and 48mm with another.
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Originally Posted by DannoXYZ
(Post 14464461)
Give it a try and measure. In addition to the overall width of the BB-spindle, the diameter of the taper actually varies at the tip. That means a 115mm spindle from one maker would have the crankarm sit further up the spindle than a 115mm spindle from another manufacturer. So even with exact same spindle-length, you may see chainline of 46 with one BB and 48mm with another.
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Originally Posted by peugeot mongrel
(Post 14463736)
If you are going to set it up single on the outer ring position you want the ring 3mm closer than it's position as a double, more like 109. If you get the spindle too short on some frames using a double spider the inner offset will hit. Like Bill said you can always use a spacer to help.
But I agree with Danno: put it together, see how it works, measure the clearances and see what the next one to try should be. |
Originally Posted by Road Fan
(Post 14464710)
Before you go too far, measure all the clearances to teh frame: crankarm to chainstay, chainring closest point to chainstay, chainring bolts to chainstay, anything else that could represent a limiting condition or a source of metal-metal interference. Recognize that you can't move that crank closer than those gaps you measure. Just know the limitations.
But I agree with Danno: put it together, see how it works, measure the clearances and see what the next one to try should be. |
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