Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

wheel building - noob

Search
Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

wheel building - noob

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 07-10-12, 06:23 PM
  #1  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 16
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
wheel building - noob

I'm considering diving into building a set of wheels. I know the theory behind it but I haven't actually done it in practice. Any thought on building the first set? What do you wish you knew before you built your first set that you didn't.
sixteenornumber is offline  
Old 07-10-12, 08:00 PM
  #2  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: boston, ma
Posts: 2,896
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
tension meter, take your time, stress relieve
reptilezs is offline  
Old 07-10-12, 08:32 PM
  #3  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,706

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5779 Post(s)
Liked 2,576 Times in 1,427 Posts
Read tutorials until you feel comfortable with the process.
Be patient and work by small degrees.
The key to ending up with even tension is to not cause uneven tension in the first place.
Stay focused, set the time and place aside so you're 100% free of distractions, and stop only at logical breaks where you can pick up where you left off.

One trick not covered in most tutorials, build the wheel too far to the right (overly dished) and keep it there until near the end. Then you can move it to center during the last round of tensioning, using only the left spokes. It's much easier to move a rim left than right, and this will keep you from needing to turn the very heavily loaded right nipples.

Good luck
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is offline  
Old 07-10-12, 09:04 PM
  #4  
Senior Member
 
Andrew R Stewart's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 18,073

Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4201 Post(s)
Liked 3,857 Times in 2,305 Posts
+1 for FBinNy's suggestion of over dishing the rear wheel. I'll go through cycles of truing (both radial and laterial) and tension equalizing with the overall tension still low. I like to say that you have to "learn" the rim's natural shape this way before ramping up tension. Lube the nipples, both threads and rim seats. Spoke Prep only gets the threads... It's ok to have some run out if the spoke tension is better distributed. Remember that a more long term stable wheel is the goal, the tire is likely to be more uneven then the rim's trueness. Andy.
Andrew R Stewart is offline  
Old 07-10-12, 10:14 PM
  #5  
Passista
 
Reynolds's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 7,597

Bikes: 1998 Pinarello Asolo, 1992 KHS Montaña pro, 1980 Raleigh DL-1, IGH Hybrid, IGH Utility

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 866 Post(s)
Liked 721 Times in 396 Posts
Go slowly, turn nipples by a fraction of a turn once they make contact.
Reynolds is offline  
Old 07-11-12, 06:50 AM
  #6  
Senior Member
 
Retro Grouch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: St Peters, Missouri
Posts: 30,225

Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.

Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1572 Post(s)
Liked 643 Times in 364 Posts
Originally Posted by FBinNY
The key to ending up with even tension is to not cause uneven tension in the first place.
+1. Once you get the wheel loosely laced, don't be in too much of a hurry to bring it up to tension. Whatever time you spend bringing it to tension in little equal sized steps will be paid back with interest during the trueing process.
Retro Grouch is offline  
Old 07-11-12, 08:58 AM
  #7  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 8,688
Mentioned: 46 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1074 Post(s)
Liked 295 Times in 222 Posts
If I'd know it was to become a regular thing, I'd have started buying spokes by the box, or maybe started hunting for a spoke threading machine years ago. I also wish I'd stumbled on to a 2.3 mm gauge spoke supplier earlier.
dabac is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
canflyboy
Bicycle Mechanics
15
06-11-12 07:42 PM
blaronn
Bicycle Mechanics
93
01-19-12 11:57 AM
Puget Pounder
Bicycle Mechanics
2
08-11-11 06:32 PM
bobonker
Bicycle Mechanics
9
06-25-11 11:14 AM
Jancouver
Bicycle Mechanics
24
09-03-10 03:46 PM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.