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  1. #1
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    Most cost effective way of removing an older shimano crankset

    I purchased a new 5700 crank/bb. I also purchased the park tool bbt9 to install it

    But it doesn't appear that this tool will work to remove my old crank as pictured here



    So what's the cheapest way to get this crank off of my bike so I can install the new one? Thanks

  2. #2
    Senior Member mechBgon's Avatar
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    Park Tool BBT-32 or BBT-22, or an equivalent clone. If you get the BBT-32, make sure you've got something suitable to drive it with, since it isn't a square-drive socket. Either of these is a versatile tool, good to have around if you work on bikes at all.

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    Do I need a crank puller?

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    自転車整備士 oldskoolwrench's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JustinNY View Post
    I purchased a new 5700 crank/bb. I also purchased the park tool bbt9 to install it

    But it doesn't appear that this tool will work to remove my old crank as pictured here



    So what's the cheapest way to get this crank off of my bike so I can install the new one? Thanks
    First off, it appears as if you have an Octalink Crank and BB, so you'll need a crank arm removal tool, like the
    Park CCP-44.



    Then you can use either the BBT-22 or -32 to remove the BB from the frame.


  5. #5
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    Remove the bolts securing the crankarms with an 8mm allen wrench, then use a splined crank puller (park or any other) to remove the crank... Then use the bottom-bracket tool that mechBgon mentioned to remove the bottom bracket, remembering that the drive-side is reverse thread.
    Last edited by AlbertaBeef; 07-15-12 at 03:12 PM. Reason: Above guys beat me to the punch, lol...

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    Quote Originally Posted by mechBgon View Post
    Park Tool BBT-32 or BBT-22, or an equivalent clone. If you get the BBT-32, make sure you've got something suitable to drive it with, since it isn't a square-drive socket. Either of these is a versatile tool, good to have around if you work on bikes at all.
    MechBgon needs to get another cup of coffee, ether that or new glasses, This is very uncharacteristically wrong.

    The crank requires an 8mm hex key to remove the bolt. I'm not sure from the photo if this is a one-key type where when you back off the bolt it becomes a crank puller and removes the crank, or if you also need a crank puller.

    The BB appears to be conventional cup & spindle design which requires 2-3 tools.

    Since you asked for the most cost effective method, I'd suggest passing on buying the tools which you won't need for the new crank, either try to borrow them or visit a local work-on-your-own-bike bike co-op, or pay a dealer a nominal to do it all for you.

    If you were staying with cranks of similar design, it would be a different story.
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    What about this



    Or a tool that grabs from the outside of the cups... Like this





    Last edited by JustinNY; 07-15-12 at 03:22 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by FBinNY View Post
    The BB appears to be conventional cup & spindle design which requires 2-3 tools.
    Nope, it's a Shimano 5500 octalink BB. Needs the shimano 16-spline remover.

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    Senior Member OldsCOOL's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldskoolwrench View Post
    First off, it appears as if you have an Octalink Crank and BB, so you'll need a crank arm removal tool, like the
    Park CCP-44.



    Then you can use either the BBT-22 or -32 to remove the BB from the frame.

    This works just fine for my splined crankset (ISIS bottom bracket). It's worth every penny and will work on square taper cranksets, too.
    Having a flat tire as part of the total cycling experience is highly overrated. Knowing how to fix one quickly is not.

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    Ok so I pulled the crank bolts and I definitely need a crank puller. I'm still a little confused on the bbt22 because the BB has notches on the outside vs the 16 spline tool which grabs on the inside

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    Quote Originally Posted by JustinNY View Post
    Ok so I pulled the crank bolts and I definitely need a crank puller. I'm still a little confused on the bbt22 because the BB has notches on the outside vs the 16 spline which grabs on the inside
    You definitely need the 16 spline. Look at the drive-side and you'll see no notches outside, they're only on the non-drive side. I believe Shimano designed the non-drive side with both splines and notches so you could ensure it was snug without removing the crankarm (using an old-school bottom bracket spanner) but it most definitely requires the 16-spline tool.

    Also, check out the shimano tech doc - it shows quite clearly what I'm saying: http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/te...9830612167.pdf

    Hope that helps,

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    Quote Originally Posted by AlbertaBeef View Post
    You definitely need the 16 spline. Look at the drive-side and you'll see no notches outside, they're only on the non-drive side. I believe Shimano designed the non-drive side with both splines and notches so you could ensure it was snug without removing the crankarm (using an old-school bottom bracket spanner) but it most definitely requires the 16-spline tool.
    Understood, so just to confirm, the 16 spline tool is the only tool require to remove the entire bottom bracket

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by JustinNY View Post
    Understood, so just to confirm, the 16 spline tool is the only tool require to remove the entire bottom bracket
    3 tools:

    1) 8mm allen/hex wrench to remove the bolts
    2) Crank puller (Park CCP-44 is good, for sure)
    3) Bottom Bracket tool like the BBT-22 - just remember drive side is reverse-thread.\\

    FYI I like the BBT-22 because it gives the option of not only using a wrench, but using an impact socket wrench as well... Some BB's are a bugger to remove without an impact wrench. Hopefully not yours...

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by FBinNY View Post
    MechBgon needs to get another cup of coffee, ether that or new glasses, This is very uncharacteristically wrong.

    The crank requires an 8mm hex key to remove the bolt. I'm not sure from the photo if this is a one-key type where when you back off the bolt it becomes a crank puller and removes the crank, or if you also need a crank puller.

    The BB appears to be conventional cup & spindle design which requires 2-3 tools.
    Your turn at the optomitrist. First, it's not a self-extracting crank arm so the OP will indeed need a crank puller along with the 8 mm hex to remove the fixing bolts. Second, it's an Octalink cartridge bb, not at all a cup-and cone, so a Park BB-22 is the correct tool to remove it.

    Finally, for the OP, I do agree that the cheapest way to remove the current crank and bottom bracket is to take it to an LBS. The cost for the removal should be less than buying the tools for this one-time job. However, if you plan to reuse the crank and bottom bracket on another bike or have other bikes with similar cranks and either square taper or Octalink cartridge bottom brackets, then buying the tools is the way to go.

  15. #15
    Asi
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    Are you blind? (not the OP but the rest) or am I?

    That is a classic taper square crank. The rubbery plastic thing around the center inbus (allen) bolt is a dustcover that is covering the inner threads of the crank where you attach the crank-puller.
    The BB is a cup-cone, with 6 splines on the lockring. a sliding cup and fixed cup.

    Now back to the OP question:
    For removing the crank: most effective is using a crank puller of any kind (there are from prices from 1$ to a some tens $) - or find a friend who has one. Other variations involve abuse to the crank like automotive gear pullers or grip the crank in a bench vice and punch/hammer on the spindle - both actions are not to be recommended.

    For removing the BB: the left side lockring can be driven out by hammering a flat screwdriver in one of the splines (counter-clockwise to loosen) - no necessity of special tools. The sliding cup can be unthreaded by hand after the lockring is taken out (or by gaining a bit of help from the same flat screwdriver).
    The fixed cup (right side) is a bugger most of the time and require either a large crescent wrench or a bench vice with sharp jaws and twist the frame around it. Remember the right cup (the fixed cup) is left threaded, so you must turn it clockwise to loosen it)

    *I have one crankset strikingly similar with the one in picture
    Last edited by Asi; 07-15-12 at 04:31 PM.

  16. #16
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    Do I need a crank puller?.
    you could have a shop do the work,
    then you don't have to own the tools

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Asi View Post
    Are you blind? (not the OP but the rest) or am I?

    That is a classic taper square crank. The rubbery plastic thing around the center inbus (allen) bolt is a dustcover that is covering the inner threads of the crank where you attach the crank-puller.
    The BB is a cup-cone, with 6 splines on the lockring. a sliding cup and fixed cup.
    Sorry, but yes, you are blind. No offense. =)

    First, look closely and you'll see it's obviously 8 splines on the 'lockring' (not a lockring, it's a machined edge to the cup) not 6. This was part of the Shimano 105 5500 BB design.

    Second, The OP has a full Shimano 105 5500 9 speed group - you can verify this by not only looking at the components but by reading his previous posts. If you look closely at his bottom bracket, and closely at the Shimano 105 5500 series bottom bracket, you'll see I'm correct in what I'm saying, as are the others that have said it's an Octolink bottom bracket.

    Again, no offense but I have seen these multiple times, and this is not now, nor will it ever be, a square-taper bottom bracket. =)
    Last edited by AlbertaBeef; 07-15-12 at 04:35 PM.

  18. #18
    Asi
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    My bad, but for removing the splined part, hammering a flat screwdriver (or a rather blunt chisel, or punch, etc.) is still effective for both tightening and removing.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Asi View Post
    My bad, but for removing the splined part, hammering a flat screwdriver (or a rather blunt chisel, or punch, etc.) is still effective for both tightening and removing.
    Except there is no splined 'lockring-looking' part on the drive-side, it's flush. He'll need the BB tool.

  20. #20
    Senior Member mechBgon's Avatar
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    Ooops, I should've given a complete answer and mentioned the 8mm hex key and a crank puller. I was focusing on the BB itself. MORE. COFFEE!!!

  21. #21
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    If you have the allen tool to remove the bolt, the cheapest way to do it is using a piece of wood and a hammer.

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    Cost effective, right??? Everybody has a piece of wook moving around at home for sure, a hammer or a rock too... 2 or 3 hits and that will be lose right away. It might mark the crank but the op said cost effective

  23. #23
    Senior Member mechBgon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ultraman6970 View Post
    Cost effective, right??? Everybody has a piece of wook moving around at home for sure, a hammer or a rock too... 2 or 3 hits and that will be lose right away. It might mark the crank but the op said cost effective
    A properly-fastened Octalink crankarm has a pretty good grip on the spindle. It would probably require THREE rocks.

  24. #24
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    Hacksaw blades are cheap.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ultraman6970 View Post
    If you have the allen tool to remove the bolt, the cheapest way to do it is using a piece of wood and a hammer.

    I ended up buying the crank puller, I would like to sell the components I remove and thus would like to keep them in good condition. Hoping this proves more cost effective in the long run

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