Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Results 1 to 17 of 17
  1. #1
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Napa, Ca
    My Bikes
    Nashbar touring build
    Posts
    164
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Rear rack extension

    I have a mnt bike that has a rear rack mounted on it. Also i have big feet (44 eu sized shoes) when ever I put on any panniers my heel always strike the bags. are there any diy solutions or items I could buy/order somewhere?
    to every climb there is always the other side

  2. #2
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    West Yorkshire, United Kingdom
    Posts
    3,138
    Mentioned
    3 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Sounds like the frame you have has a short wheel base, if so, you will struggle to get any rack to give enough clearance, would be looking at a bike designed for touring with a long wheel base, rather than an MTB, which if modern will be short wheel base.

    Have you tried using the adjustor's on the pannier to mount it further back? most panniers can be adjusted fore and aft to bring the pannier closer or further away from the seat tube. Haven't seen any solutions out there, but the more heavy duty the rack, think Tubus Logo or Surly Nice allow you to fit the pannier a long way back.

    For your feet, size 44 isn't big, it's only a UK 9.5 / US 10 which is pretty much an average size.

  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Napa, Ca
    My Bikes
    Nashbar touring build
    Posts
    164
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Actually, I'm closer to a 45 than a 43, so US 11. but I'll look into those options too (surly and tubus) Yeah, my rack is fairly heavy duty. Rated for 45 lbs. And yes, it is a mnt bike (though hard tail) thanks for the info.

    oh and the panniers I use are the Jandd shopping bag ones (no fore aft adjustment) or my Jannd mnt panns, which are adjusted as far back as they can go. still have that same heel strike problem though
    Last edited by draig; 07-26-12 at 12:36 AM. Reason: forgot some info
    to every climb there is always the other side

  4. #4
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    4,139
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Get a length of, say 8 mm (1/3") steel rod. Bend into an U of the same width as the current rack. Mount extender to current rack using hose clamps.
    Can't find a rod? Pick up another rack from a dumped bike. Cut the "legs" off, or whatever you need to get the deck of the "new" deck to fit the old rack. Mount with hose clamps.

  5. #5
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Napa, Ca
    My Bikes
    Nashbar touring build
    Posts
    164
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    The way I'm seeing that is it'll just raise the rack huh? not really back as well...
    to every climb there is always the other side

  6. #6
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    New Rochelle, NY
    My Bikes
    too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
    Posts
    19,980
    Mentioned
    32 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    Usually when I see this problem, I try one of two methods before resorting to more extreme measures.

    In many cases a rack can be pushed back by lengthening the straps leading to the seat stays, but this will give you very little extra room at the bottom, so is only good if you need another 1/2" or so. Don't push the rack back so far that it's way off level.

    The other option is to shift the hooks supporting the panniers forward thereby shifting the bags backward. Some panniers allow this and all you'll need is a drill to make the new hole in the upper brace.

    If neither option is available, you can extend the rails with a length of steel bar hose clamped to the rail with a pair of hose clamps. Make sure the two are well separated so the cantilevered extension can't tilt down. You might have to bend or otherwise modify the extension or pannier hooks so the bag sits level, but I'm sure you can figure that out.

    Far and away, the cleanest method is shifting he hooks forward, so see if that's possible before going to jerry rig solution.
    Last edited by FBinNY; 07-26-12 at 09:11 AM.
    FB
    Chain-L site

    An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

    “Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin

    “One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

    WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.

  7. #7
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Napa, Ca
    My Bikes
    Nashbar touring build
    Posts
    164
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I'll give that a try, thanks!
    to every climb there is always the other side

  8. #8
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Pittsburgh, PA
    My Bikes
    '''96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '12 Surly Pacer, All are 3x8,9 or 10. It is hilly around here!
    Posts
    25,275
    Mentioned
    5 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    As noted, your feet are only a bit on the long side of average so I'm wondering if you have your cleats (assuming clipless pedals) mounted rather far forward on your shoes or if you are using short toe clips on flat pedals.

  9. #9
    Banned.
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    My Bikes
    CCM Torino 76
    Posts
    937
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I have size 49 feet and have successfully used a rack with panniers on my road bike with ultra-short chainstays and I was able to ride without heel strike. My solutions:tilt the rack back a few inches by sliding the adjustable stays all the way out, and slide the panniers all the way back so the rearward hook is as close as possible to the back edge of the rack.

    I do not have very large panniers, though, so that may have something to do with it.

  10. #10
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2001
    Location
    England
    Posts
    12,203
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    In avoiding heel-strike, you also have to account for crank length and pannier profile.
    Tall guys should be riding long cranks but this makes heel strike even worse.
    Panniers should have a heel cutout profile. If they are square cut, they need to be shifted further back, so far that the weight extends beyond the rear hub and the bike gets very tippy when loaded.
    A Tubus style extender plate at the lower eyelets is probably your best bet.

  11. #11
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    NW,Oregon Coast
    My Bikes
    7
    Posts
    39,073
    Mentioned
    20 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    DIY, involves making a strut to go at the bottom ,between rack and bike.
    you can shift the rack back more, or up higher to clear your heels..
    and another strut change up top..

    you might also be able to change the hook location, on your bags,
    to move them Forward, so as to shift the bag back,
    or so bag is turned off level so as to make space. front lower corner rotates back, rear upper corner up/& forward

    shopping panniers are rectangles, there are other choices that cut the lower front corner
    so as to have the clearance then.

    I go shopping with my Ortlieb roller top bags, put them on the check-out counter first.
    they fill those.. some stores give me $0.05 credit for not using a take-out bag.
    Last edited by fietsbob; 07-26-12 at 01:01 PM.

  12. #12
    Senior Member Spld cyclist's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Springfield, MA
    My Bikes
    2012 Motobecane Fantom CXX, 2012 Motobecane Fantom CX, 1997 Bianchi Nyala, 200? Burley Rock 'n Roll
    Posts
    870
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Maybe this? http://www.jandd.com/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=FREXP

    I haven't used this one, but Jandd has a good reputation. Pricey but cheaper than the Surly and Tubus racks suggested above.

  13. #13
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Napa, Ca
    My Bikes
    Nashbar touring build
    Posts
    164
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Thanks for all the suggestions. I'll be able to test some of em' out this coming Wednesday. That's my next day I'll be using panns.
    to every climb there is always the other side

  14. #14
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    4,139
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by draig View Post
    The way I'm seeing that is it'll just raise the rack huh? not really back as well...
    Nono. Lay the U flat, along the "deck" of the rack. Open end forward.

  15. #15
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Napa, Ca
    My Bikes
    Nashbar touring build
    Posts
    164
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Oooh, thanks! now i can picture it
    to every climb there is always the other side

  16. #16
    Senior Member bud16415's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Erie Penna.
    Posts
    1,017
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    This is the only pic I have of how I moved mine back about an inch. The rack mount (black) is partially hidden behind something else in this photo but should show you the bend I made in the very bottom of the main rod. Bending the rod forward until it is touching the front hook will lower the rack and move it back about an inch. In my case both lower and back were a good thing.


    .
    What's not in your legs needs to be in your gears.

  17. #17
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Napa, Ca
    My Bikes
    Nashbar touring build
    Posts
    164
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Looks like I'll be using street shoes till next month (my pedals are Shimano PD-M 324's aka campus pedals) and just use the platform side instead of clipless... Thanks for all your input in this issue. I'm sure I'll be able to get those tubus extensions or a different rack by then.
    to every climb there is always the other side

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •