Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Mentioned: 29 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
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It really depends on the extent, and whether the tire can peel away from the rim because of it. I've been riding tubulars for 45+ years, and this is very common in older tires especially where the base tape extends beyond the rim. UV and water break down the rubber cement on the walls an th tread can delaminate at the edge as can the edge of the base tape. Usually it takes much longer for the unglued area to extend to the rim area (where it matters) so on older tires where I feel it's near the end anyway, I'll often disregard the problem.
But if the unglued area extends to the rim - test by rolling a partly inflated to the side a bit - it can cause a tire to roll so must be dealt with.
Leave the tire on the rim, and roll it sideways a bit while partly inflated, and wedge it there with tooth picks, or sometimes you might use duck tape running to the opposite side to keep it rolled. Apply rubber cement to both the wall and the base tape and let them dry completely without touching. Then carefully roll the tire back home, and press the tape down to the wall above the rim. Work carefully, the dried rubber cement coatings act like contact cement, so you only have one shot. When finished use talcum powder to blot up the tack on the exposed part of the wall.
BTW- if you're an all weather rider, dealing with it is fairly important. Otherwise grit will get trapped between the tape and tire and abrade the wall costing you a premature tire failure. But it will teach you how to handle a bike after a blowout.
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions”
- Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
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