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  1. #1
    Senior Member GordoTrek's Avatar
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    cross levers/inline brakes on non aero brakes levers

    will it work?, is it even functional to have the lever on with the cable out like that ?? the guy i sold an 84 olympian to wants to install the levers on it, ... this bike is really nice like it is but he had to have it, he almost asked me to install turkey levers...
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  2. #2
    Cottered Crank Amesja's Avatar
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    It should work just fine although the cable housing may interfere with, or get in the way of, reaching for the interrupter lever maybe -depending on how it was routed between the brake lever and the interrupter.

    Awkward, goofy-looking, unconventional -but it will work.

    The theory behind these levers is just spreading a gap in the cable housing inline between the main lever and the brake.
    '74 Raleigh Carlton Competition w/ Ultegra | '97 Trek 720 Singletrack CX-er w/ 105 | '64 Raleigh LTD-3 modernized w/ all alloy components |'69 Raleigh Twenty | '54 Raleigh Sports

  3. #3
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    You plan to loop the cables back around to meet the inline levers ?

    I have seen the primary brake levers wired backwards..
    ball end of cable on top, housing stop is where the cable ball end, normally went.

    housing exiting downward behind the brake lever, rather than up..

    that may let the scheme work out a little better.
    Last edited by fietsbob; 08-01-12 at 11:09 AM.

  4. #4
    bike whisperer Kimmo's Avatar
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    Madness. If he's gonna stick interrupters on it, he should put aero levers on it too.

    Cable routing nightmare otherwise, IMO.

  5. #5
    7-speed doomsday prepper ThermionicScott's Avatar
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    I could see it working if the interrupter levers are wired to the opposite-side brake levers, but I'm not sure if that would be a good idea, either.
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  6. #6
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    I don't see any reason it couldn't be made to work OK. You might be able to use a V-brake noodle to help make the turn from the brake lever into the interrupter lever. It might work smoother than making a tight bend or a loop. They are available in 45- and 135-degree bends as well as the more common 90-degree type. A length of NOKON housing from brake to brake would work too, probably better. The extra levers are handy in traffic where you need your head up high and to make quick stops.

  7. #7
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    cable doubler will combine a cable from each, lever into one to pull the brake cable.

    http://www.bikeman.com/BR3342.html 2 of them break $130+, though..

  8. #8
    bike whisperer Kimmo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dsbrantjr View Post
    V-brake noodle
    Hey, why not. Use another one where the cable exits the lever too.

  9. #9
    Real Men Ride Ordinaries fuzz2050's Avatar
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    I'm sure it's possible, but it seems to me that even with the noodle, the cable would be coming in exactly where you would want to put your hand. I'd offer to swap for aero brake levers (at a small fee of course).

    Maybe if you used three noodles it could work, one leaving the brake lever, and then two in a sort of z shape entering the interrupter.

  10. #10
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    I tried to do this - it worked OK but not fantastic. I would suggest getting a pair of aero levers. The person I built it for hated using the brake hoods so I put these on the bike and tilted the handlebars up a bit: http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/br-0024.html

  11. #11
    Cottered Crank Amesja's Avatar
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    Tektro sells aero brake levers for about $25 online. Lee Chi ones go for about $20 if he is really strapped for money. That would do more for better braking feel/power than the interrupters. And he could still put them on too if he felt he really needed them.
    '74 Raleigh Carlton Competition w/ Ultegra | '97 Trek 720 Singletrack CX-er w/ 105 | '64 Raleigh LTD-3 modernized w/ all alloy components |'69 Raleigh Twenty | '54 Raleigh Sports

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