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  1. #1
    Senior Member Mithrandir's Avatar
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    Chain shows no wear, replacing cassette, replace chain anyway?

    I'm going to be trying out a new drivetrain on my bike, replacing the cassette and my smallest chainring. I used a park chain wear tool to look at the chain last week and it shows no sign of wear after 2,500 miles, and the cassette seems fine too.

    Should I replace the chain anyway?


    I will keep the old cassette and switch it back on whenever I'm going to do really hilly rides, as it has a lower gear on it (11-34 vs 12-30). So if I do change the chain, should I keep the old chain and use that when switching to the old gearing or would it be ok to use the new chain? There's only a 4 tooth difference so I think I can get away with using the same length of chain as long as I'm careful to avoid severe cross-chaining.

  2. #2
    7-speed doomsday prepper ThermionicScott's Avatar
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    What change are you making for the chainring?

    You'll probably be fine, but it wouldn't hurt to get a new chain for the new cassette, and then swap both when you use the old one.

    EDIT: No wear after 2500 miles? Not bad -- you should check it with a ruler, too.
    Last edited by ThermionicScott; 08-01-12 at 12:29 PM.
    Quote Originally Posted by chandltp View Post
    There's no such thing as too far.. just lack of time
    RUSA #7498

  3. #3
    Senior Member DieselDan's Avatar
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    Measure a second time with a ruler.
    Bikes use brakes to stop.

    If your bike has breaks, don't ride it.

  4. #4
    Cottered Crank Amesja's Avatar
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    +1 to check it again, with a ruler too. that's a lot of miles if a 9-10 speed. Maybe not so many if 8-speed or less.

    I've got a Park CC-3.2 and I always check the chain in at least 2 different spots too sometimes.

    The problem with such a short chain checker is that it is only looking (feeling atually) at a very small chunk of the chain as a sample. I'm not 100% convinced that chains wear evenly all around the length -so I want to check a little more of the chain than just a tiny 4" chunk of it. Doing the ruler check also gets more links involved into the measurement over a longer distance.

    Having a chain "check good" on a chain-checker isn't always a true positive of good -but if you have one check "bad" it is almost certainly bad.
    '74 Raleigh Carlton Competition w/ Ultegra | '97 Trek 720 Singletrack CX-er w/ 105 | '64 Raleigh LTD-3 modernized w/ all alloy components |'69 Raleigh Twenty | '54 Raleigh Sports

  5. #5
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    I'd package the chain and cassette together , in a bag.. if I were you.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Amesja View Post
    +1 to check it again, with a ruler too. that's a lot of miles if a 9-10 speed. Maybe not so many if 8-speed or less.

    I've got a Park CC-3.2 and I always check the chain in at least 2 different spots too sometimes.

    The problem with such a short chain checker is that it is only looking (feeling atually) at a very small chunk of the chain as a sample. I'm not 100% convinced that chains wear evenly all around the length -so I want to check a little more of the chain than just a tiny 4" chunk of it. Doing the ruler check also gets more links involved into the measurement over a longer distance.

    Having a chain "check good" on a chain-checker isn't always a true positive of good -but if you have one check "bad" it is almost certainly bad.
    The chain checkers always show a chain as worn out before it is. The only accurate to gauge chain wear is with a ruller.

  7. #7
    Senior Member Shimagnolo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by davidad View Post
    The chain checkers always show a chain as worn out before it is. The only accurate to gauge chain wear is with a ruller.
    Not quite true.
    The Shimano TL-CN40/TL-CN41 is the one checker that measures correctly.
    http://pardo.net/bike/pic/fail-004/000.html

  8. #8
    Senior Member Mithrandir's Avatar
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    It's a 10 speed. I checked in 3 places using the park tool chain checker.

    Got a tape measure I suppose I could use. Ordered a new chain anyway though. Was hoping to go the whole season with just 1 but I'm not sure I'll risk it.

    The crank is 26-36-48. I'm replacing the 26 with either a 22 or 24. Ideally a 22 but if that doesn't work right (concerned about the 14t drop) I'll try 24.

    I'm using the heaviest SRAM chain if that matters, the 1030 one.
    Last edited by Mithrandir; 08-01-12 at 11:48 PM.

  9. #9
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    Mithrandir, If the chain has trouble with the new cassette and skips, then install the new chain. I've swapped cassettes around without any problems to suit the terrain I'm expecting on a ride. You may want to consider a chain minder, or something similar to keep the chain off of the frame.

    Brad

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