mangokm40

I'm pretty sure the bearings are not upside down. Is there anything else that might make it feel like there's too much friction. I haven't even applied preload yet.

Thanks for your time.

Kimmo

Hmm. I was having a similar problem on a kid's BMX today; couldn't make it stop rattling before it became stiff (I used proper tools to install it), and after he took it for a bit of a spin, it was sorted.

But the fact you haven't applied preload might mean something's not right... double-check, and/or post some pics maybe.

FBinNY 

I can't know what you call too tight, but most of the friction in correctly installed bearings is seal drag. This is common, and seems tight to hand, but is a low level constant which disappears in comparison to the overall real world forces involved. Seal drag can often make a new bearing stiff, but eases with wear at the seal and as some bearing grease migrates under the lip.

Of course, only you can feel it, so the first step is for you to make a judgement call as to whether it's seal drag, or feels more like a metal to metal friction indicating something is wrong.

Retro Grouch 

Sure you got the top and bottom right?

mangokm40

Thanks for the help.
@Kimmo: I took some bad pictures and will post them.
@FBinNY: It turns smoothly. But every bike I've had has a 'free' feeling that I'm not getting here. "Tight to hand" seems like a good description.
@Retro: The cups are definitely in the right place. I didn't see any difference in the bearings. The pictures I keep trying to get of the bearings don't come out well. I'll have to find a decent camera and post them.

Thanks

Puget Pounder

Cartridge or cage? Sorry, too lazy to look up the 110. Sometimes after a few rides, the bearings kind of find their seat and the friction reduces.

Do you have the rubber seal in the correct place, if applicable?

Are the head tube contacts points square? A shop can do it pretty quickly and cheaply.

mangokm40

Sorry. I should know to put this on the original post. Cartridge is the answer.
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/I.../120/11266.Jpg

FBinNY 

Here's my one and only way to check for headset adjustment. It should be tight enough to pass the "rock with front brake on test". And loose enough that I can easily walk the bike holding it by the seat and leaning to steer. If it's marginal and I need to nudge the bike to steer (walking), but otherwise OK, I ride foe a week and see if it improves (which it usually does) or try backing off some preload while still being OK on the brake test).

IthaDan 

Did you install all the parts? Was there a split ring with a taper to it?



Installing without the centering sleeve can replicate this.

E: wait, it's too tight before you preload it? what's your fork? Is the crown dragging on the lower cup?

goatalope

Did you face the headtube? Doesn't usually seem necessary to me, but its typically recommended - for example, instructions for Chris King headsets say the headtube should be faced.

mangokm40

The 110 is a little different than that, but I did verify that all components are installed per the instructions.
There is some room between the crown race and the crown. The cup/crown are not dragging.

I didn't face the head tube.

Thanks for all your help, but I guess it's silly of me to ask for help without the pictures. I'll borrow a decent camera. Unfortunately, it will be a while before I ride b/c I don't even have all the parts yet.

Thanks to all.

mangokm40

Everyone was very nice on this forum. I thought I'd post some pictures I took of the 110 headset install. Apparently, the 2012 version of this headset has an 'extra' seal at the bottom of the bearing cover (blue ring on the 4th pic from the bottom). Supposedly, the tightness will go away after a couple of rides. I won't know for a while, since I'm still gathering parts. I ordered the pictures from bottom of the installation to the top.

Thanks to all for your time.

The crown race on the fork:


The bottom bearing cage:


The front of the bottom cup:


The back of the bottom cup:


The side of the top cup:


The front of the top cup:


The top bearing cage:


The bottom of the bearing cover assembly:


The top of the bearing cover assembly


This brass ring fills the space an 'interlok' spacer would use at the top of the bearing cover:


The top cap & compression bolt:

Chris_W

Some headsets are supplied with micro-spacers/washers that are designed to go on top of the upper bearing to raise the top bearing cover if there is interference. I've had to use these on a few builds to avoid problems like you describe. However, these tend to only be needed with intergrated headset systems (where the shaping of the head-tube can affect the spacing needed), not with external headsets like the one that you have.

mangokm40

I spoke to a couple of Cane Creek employees. They were certain I didn't need a shim, because I didn't have an integrated version of the 110. However this video relates the need for a shim with the diameter of the steerer tube:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P4X7rujEtCU

Note that he was not using an internal version of the 110. The dust cover has been replaced by that seal I mentioned in my previous post.

Anyway, I tried a shim. It certainly feels better. When I finish the build, I'll try it both ways.

My handlebars were shipped yesterday.