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  1. #1
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    Couple of problems with a Raleigh Pioneer

    Hi,

    This is my first experience with an older bike in need of care, so far it is going ok, but two things are really sticking out as a problem and I am totally stuck.

    First issue: Front brakes slacken when brake lever is pulled.
    - I tighten the brake arms and make sure its all ok, but if any great pressure is applied to the front brake the wire slips through the bolt and the arms move away from the wheel again, the brake cable looks a bit old but I have got a feeling its mostly the bolt. Is it possible to find this part on its own or do I need to replace the whole front brake?

    Second issue: Handlebar is too low and the allen key bolt to loosen them is worn smooth.
    - Kind of self explanatory, but the allen key bolt is firmly stuck, when I tried to undo it, the allen key caught for a while then suddenly span around, I noticed after this that the bolt is pretty much smooth, does anybody have any ideas of how to get the handlebars up?

    Many Thanks

    Luke

  2. #2
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    too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
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    The stem bolt is probably easier to deal with. When I see these, I find a screwdriver just slightly wider than the long diagonal of the hex hole, and tap it in with a hammer so it cuts it's own slot. Then holding the blade with good pliers (or a wrench if it has the convenient hex at the handle) use i to turn the bolt as if it were a big screw. (This generally destroys the bolt and so precludes reuse, but in some cases you can get away using it as long as the slot holds up)

    Another way is to use something like JB Weld to sort of glue the key in. Pack the head and press the key fully to the bottom, forcing out excess. (tap the key home with a hammer). Allow 48 hours for it to cure, and the bolt should come out.

    Last ditch if all else fails and you've decided the stem is toast anyway. Cut the stem through below the extension, tap down the expander bolt shaft and use pliers to work the remaining stub out. Do not cut close to the headset, you want enough to hold and pull up. As I said, this is strictly a last resort.

    The brake may be easier. Check the threads, then reassemble without th cable and see of the nut can close up to and at least halfway across the hole. If not use a washer. The nut or washer must close far enough to bear on and bend the wire as it leaves both sides of the hole. If your brakes are of the kind that holds the cable to the side of the anchor bolt, it's similar logic. You need good threads and a rigid washer to securely trap the wire so it can't slip.

    BTW- most of these bolts are still available, but there are various sizes so bring yours to a bike shop for a match.
    FB
    Chain-L site

    An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

    “Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin

    “One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

    WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.

  3. #3
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    Hi,

    Thanks for the reply, I am going to try the screwdriver technique as I have that kind of stuff already. Hopefully it will work!

    As for the brakes, I decided that in the long run its probably better to just replace them, the V brakes themselves are rusted and just generally old. So I have got some new brakes and brake cables, will be fitting them tomorrow. Thanks for the advice though, if I have a problem in the future I will bear it all in mind.

    Thanks Again

  4. #4
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    I new (to me) trick I've heard about getting rounded out recessed hex screws loose, is to get a cheap set of torx bits and hammer one in that just won't quite fit. Then turn it loose and replace the screw with another. I've heard it works even better with a hand impact wrench (the kind you hit with a hammer).

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