merganser22

Mid 70's columbia 10 speed, drive side of axle held off back of dropout 3/8" by specialized nut that slots into dropout and bolt that goes through it and the derauller hanger to keep the derauller from pivoting. Non-drive side axle has 3/8" between it and the back of the dopout, how do you keep the non-drive side axle from sliding back in the dropout? Tighten the outside axle nut/star washer down tight? Is that it? Or does that put too much pressure on the rear bearings/axle? Already had it slip back once throwing the wheel way off the centerline and into the chainstay. Do not wan that happening again.

Additionally when rear wheel is spun at LOW RPM it makes an almost grinding noise, weather the axle is secure in the bike or held in the hands. New wheel/axle/hub fresh out of the box, is that normal? If not what is causing it and what is the fix. Already tried to loosen the bearing retention nut on the not drive and re-tightening it with a lot less torque, no effect.

dabac

While it's fairly common to have an axle slip forward due to pedalling forces, I've never heard of an axle slipping backwards. But I suppose it's possible to cause a rearwards slip by applying the brake if your wheel is done up really, really poorly - and that your pedalling action is buttery smooth...

Here's the thing - No one here knows what tight means to you. I'd say a fairly modest amount of force will usually do the trick on a non-drive side axle nut, but then I'm pretty used to wrenching on machinery on all kinds of sizes. Elbow action, wrist action is too little, shoulder action is too much.

Only if you've messed up the axle assembly. (assuming it's a cup& cone hub...) You do know that the cone and locknut are tightened against each other, right? This should lock their position along the axle, and whatever you do to the wheel nut shouldn't have "any" effect on the bearing adjustment.

You really need the extra-slim cone wrenches to get that step right. If you tried to bodge your way through it with a regular set of wrenches you might already have done some permanent damage.

Odds are it was the driveside slipping forward, not the NDS slipping backwards. Regular recommendation is to make sure your locknuts are serrated, and that you have a toothed washer or track nuts on the outside. Polish off any paint along the dropout edges where the locknut/axle nut meets the dropout. Check for any burrs or indentations in the dropout face.

Depends on the quality, and on how bad it is. Not all stuff will run buttery smooth. A little and it might still be fine to use.

Either it's the bearing adjustment that's a bit off, so do that one over again. Or the stuff that you have just won't allow for any better performance, in which case you either ride it while making a note never to buy such a hub again, or you get a new one.

I'm guessing a bit here, as I don't know what type of bearings you have in your hub - but either your description is way off, or you don't know how to do bearing adjustment on a cup & cone hub.

merganser22

Thanks very much for the detailed response. Was able to get it all straightened out. Your right it was the drive side that went forward. Had the thing on there without the locknuts against the cones. Evidently those weren't on there just for shipping. EEK. Yea I probably should not be trusted with a wrench. HUGE mistake! I'm doing this to learn though. Not gonna make that error again. The outside axle nuts were serrated and were on over star washers. Went out and purchased a cone wrench. Everything is fine now and the hub sounds like a hub, so pretty much silent. And have not had any problems with axle slippage. If i'm ever doing this again a mechanic's stand is in order, back is killing me. Thank you again very much without that response this wouldn't have been figured out for a lot longer if at all.

dabac

Well, we all have to start somewhere. Nothing wrong with that.

Here's a place to read up on hub adjustment in particular, and bikes in general: https://sheldonbrown.com/cone-adjustment.html

And there's plenty more on that site.

These guys are pretty helpful too:https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...and-adjustment

There's more to be had there as well.