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Old 08-10-12, 11:41 AM   #1
Steve M.
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Stubborn FSA Gossamer crank. How to remove?

I've got an FSA crank that refuses to slide nicely out of the external bearings. (They're Shimanos, rather than Mega Exos, if that makes a difference.) The crank refuses to succumb to the rubber hammer and I'm leery of whacking it too hard.

Is there some sort of penetrant or puller tool that might help?

I need to pull and reinstall the BB on my Ti frame so the creaking doesn't drive me nuts.

Thanks in advance.

Steve M.
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Old 08-10-12, 12:09 PM   #2
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Hit it harder, maybe with a dead blow hammer as well (with a block of wood to protect the end), sometimes they need a little physical persuasion.
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Old 08-10-12, 07:30 PM   #3
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you shouldn't mix bb's and cranks not the same interface. bad move. use a rubber mallet get the right bb gossamers are Pieces of S H i t btw.
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Old 08-10-12, 11:17 PM   #4
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you shouldn't mix bb's and cranks not the same interface. bad move. use a rubber mallet get the right bb gossamers are Pieces of S H i t btw.
Not sure what you mean by this, for this example, as FSA Mega Exos and Shimano HT2 are interchangeable Bottom Brackets.

For Gossamers, their rings do wear more than Shimano rings, but having used them for several years (5+) now, am quiet happy with them.
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Old 08-11-12, 05:19 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by jimc101 View Post
Hit it harder, maybe with a dead blow hammer as well (with a block of wood to protect the end), sometimes they need a little physical persuasion.
My FSA Gossamer cranks used a self extracting bolt and came off very easily without hammering. All you willl need is a socket wrench with a 10mm hex head socket to turn the self-extracting crank bolt.

FSA Gossamer crank/BB30 Bearing Installation and Removal Installation Instructions

BTW OP: The rubber hammer is probably absorbing most of the sharp impact and a dead blow will deliver that sharper impact that will break loose the stubborn inteface. The rubber hammer is just the wrong tool for the job here. I seriously doubt that BB compatibility is an issue here as well because I have used Shimano BBs with FSA cranksets with no problems. But use the self-extracting crank bolt.

Last edited by Stealthammer; 08-11-12 at 05:23 AM.
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Old 08-11-12, 05:31 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by jimc101 View Post
Not sure what you mean by this, for this example, as FSA Mega Exos and Shimano HT2 are interchangeable Bottom Brackets.

For Gossamers, their rings do wear more than Shimano rings, but having used them for several years (5+) now, am quiet happy with them.
twas a hasty response I tend to not mix stuff so after looking harder is see you can us the HT2 BB... but gossamers to my recollection don't us a self extracting bolt, it has a 5mm allen cap that sets preload and the arm clamps shimano style. I say they are crap because everyone I have ever seen use these cranks end up with problems with them loosening even if torqued to spec. I would start with hard rubber mallet and work up to the wood block and deadblow ti frame right .. take it easy.
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Old 08-11-12, 05:32 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by Stealthammer View Post
My FSA Gossamer cranks used a self extracting bolt and came off very easily without hammering. All you willl need is a socket wrench with a 10mm hex head socket to turn the self-extracting crank bolt.

FSA Gossamer crank/BB30 Bearing Installation and Removal Installation Instructions

BTW OP: The rubber hammer is probably absorbing most of the sharp impact and a dead blow will deliver that sharper impact that will break loose the stubborn inteface. The rubber hammer is just the wrong tool for the job here. I seriously doubt that BB compatibility is an issue here as well because I have used Shimano BBs with FSA cranksets with no problems. But use the self-extracting crank bolt.

only the bb30 used the self extracting style
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Old 08-11-12, 06:43 AM   #8
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FSA and Shimano bearing cups are nominally the same, as are the spindles. In reality, however, the ID of an FSA bearing cup is very slightly more than a Shimano. You can usually fit an FSA crank into a Shimano BB with some encouragement and lubrication, but removing it 12 months later is much harder. It's much easier to just use an FSA BB.

- Joel
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Old 08-11-12, 06:55 AM   #9
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I say they are crap because everyone I have ever seen use these cranks end up with problems with them loosening even if torqued to spec.
The stock bolts are not very long. So I simply cut fresh bolts to the full length of the available threads, added a drop of loctite, and have never had a whimper or a problem from my Gossamer cranks, having put lots of nice mountain miles on them over several years.

They are a nice crankset that unfortunately comes with a couple 10c bolts that just happen to be too short for the job, but easy to replace.
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Old 08-11-12, 10:55 AM   #10
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only the bb30 used the self extracting style
Sorry, I got confused between this and the other FSA crank thread. In that case both of his bikes have BB30s. My bad.
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Old 08-11-12, 03:36 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by tomacropod View Post
FSA and Shimano bearing cups are nominally the same, as are the spindles. In reality, however, the ID of an FSA bearing cup is very slightly more than a Shimano. You can usually fit an FSA crank into a Shimano BB with some encouragement and lubrication, but removing it 12 months later is much harder. It's much easier to just use an FSA BB.

- Joel
That's what I'm saying ... why create the headache in the first place all of the BB for these types of cranks are dirt cheap IMO just replace them in due time. Why create a $200 problem down the road to to save $10 now.
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