Building a Wheelset for SON Dynohub
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 257
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Building a Wheelset for SON Dynohub
Figured I would jump into the deep end of the pool and build myself a wheelset for my year-round commuter cross bike. It will use a SON dynohub.
My problem is I am unfamiliar with all the various products out there, especially rims. I could use some suggestions on what components to look at.
I want to do this right with good components. I'm aiming for strength and reliability.
The bike is a Specialized Tricross (10-speed rear end) with disc brakes (Avid BB5). I weigh ~180 lbs and frequently carry 20+ lbs of groceries in a rear basket. I ride ~4-5k miles a year in all weather on some chipseal, so tires are ~35 mm 700c's. Unless there is a good reason to use prestas, I'm thinking I'd like to go with schrader valves.
Weight is not a big deal (the bike weighs 36 lbs), but I do like to ride fast.
I was thinking of some deepish rims, maybe 36-hole (?) to handle the weight on bumps at speed. I dunno. The rear hub is another thing I could use input on. I was looking at Shimano Dura-Ace or Phil Wood. I like the idea of a hub I can service and will last.
Any thoughts? What would you put together given those parameters?
My problem is I am unfamiliar with all the various products out there, especially rims. I could use some suggestions on what components to look at.
I want to do this right with good components. I'm aiming for strength and reliability.
The bike is a Specialized Tricross (10-speed rear end) with disc brakes (Avid BB5). I weigh ~180 lbs and frequently carry 20+ lbs of groceries in a rear basket. I ride ~4-5k miles a year in all weather on some chipseal, so tires are ~35 mm 700c's. Unless there is a good reason to use prestas, I'm thinking I'd like to go with schrader valves.
Weight is not a big deal (the bike weighs 36 lbs), but I do like to ride fast.
I was thinking of some deepish rims, maybe 36-hole (?) to handle the weight on bumps at speed. I dunno. The rear hub is another thing I could use input on. I was looking at Shimano Dura-Ace or Phil Wood. I like the idea of a hub I can service and will last.
Any thoughts? What would you put together given those parameters?
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 6,957
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times
in
5 Posts
For the rear hub, I nominate a DT Swiss 350. The star-ratchet system is reliable and absurdly easy to service, you don't even have to remove the cassette (in fact, the cassette helps pop the freehub body off for servicing). You can also buy new endcaps to change the axle to 135mm later if you want.
Given your usage and the tire size range you're planning on, I'd go with the Velocity Dyad. They're affordable, pretty strong (used on tandems), not absurdly heavy (480 grams), and a suitable width for your tires. You can even obtain them in Halo retroreflective powdercoat (it's not super-reflective, but hey).
Given your usage and the tire size range you're planning on, I'd go with the Velocity Dyad. They're affordable, pretty strong (used on tandems), not absurdly heavy (480 grams), and a suitable width for your tires. You can even obtain them in Halo retroreflective powdercoat (it's not super-reflective, but hey).
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: San Jose, California
Posts: 3,504
Bikes: 2001 Tommasini Sintesi w/ Campagnolo Daytona 10 Speed
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 145 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 35 Times
in
30 Posts
Rims
700x25-28c
DT Swiss TK 540
Mavic A319s and A719s
=8-)
700x25-28c
DT Swiss TK 540
Mavic A319s and A719s
=8-)
__________________
5000+ wheels built since 1984...
Disclaimer:
1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
5. My all time favorite book is:
Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life
5000+ wheels built since 1984...
Disclaimer:
1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
5. My all time favorite book is:
Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life
#5
Banned
have 2 disc SON dynohubs 1 for 6 bolt disc mount, 26" wheel
and the other uses center-lock spline fitted discs this is in a 20" wheel
I prefer anodized black , as i find I'm not a polisher after all the years ..
I have a R'off hub in the back of both.. 32 hole..
and the other uses center-lock spline fitted discs this is in a 20" wheel
I prefer anodized black , as i find I'm not a polisher after all the years ..
I have a R'off hub in the back of both.. 32 hole..
#6
Senior Member
I would go for the shimano rear. https://bike.shimano.com/media/techdo...9830708781.pdf The Mavic 319"s are a good buy.
#7
Old fart
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Appleton WI
Posts: 24,934
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.
Mentioned: 153 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3571 Post(s)
Liked 3,366 Times
in
1,915 Posts
For a year-round commuter, I'd avoid a derailleur system and use an internally geared rear hub instead. These are available from various manufacturers in 2 to 14 speed systems, depending on your needs and how much you're willing to spend. Some models also incorporate all-weather drum brakes into the hub.
#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 257
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
For a year-round commuter, I'd avoid a derailleur system and use an internally geared rear hub instead. These are available from various manufacturers in 2 to 14 speed systems, depending on your needs and how much you're willing to spend. Some models also incorporate all-weather drum brakes into the hub.
Thanks for all the info, guys. No Phil Wood hub recommendations?
#9
Banned
I like Phil's freewheel hubs.. no complicated free-hub mech .
but I jumped from friction shifting 7 speeds to IGH bikes ,
rather than follow the forced march to 8, then 9, now 10&11 'speeds'.
(used R'off hubs on E-Pay are less in cost than new..]
Foul weather gear , my Cape hides the gear shifter windows
that do something for the index-derailleur consumer..
rotary, linear, 1 is followed by ratio-set 2,
and so forth , no 2 handed double shifts..
but I jumped from friction shifting 7 speeds to IGH bikes ,
rather than follow the forced march to 8, then 9, now 10&11 'speeds'.
(used R'off hubs on E-Pay are less in cost than new..]
Foul weather gear , my Cape hides the gear shifter windows
that do something for the index-derailleur consumer..
rotary, linear, 1 is followed by ratio-set 2,
and so forth , no 2 handed double shifts..
Last edited by fietsbob; 08-19-12 at 04:23 PM.
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 6,957
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times
in
5 Posts
By the way, this is what's in the DT Swiss star-ratchet system: https://www.rouesartisanales.com/uplo...t-system-1.jpg No tiny fragile parts, just a couple big strong ratchet rings with a spring on each side. You can pop the system open for inspection and lubrication by hand, or a 40mm headset wrench works great. Don't overpack them, you're not going for anywhere near a 100% grease fill in there.
Bonus: they're audible enough to serve as a pedestrian-alert device when coasting
Bonus: they're audible enough to serve as a pedestrian-alert device when coasting
#11
Senior Member
By the way, this is what's in the DT Swiss star-ratchet system: https://www.rouesartisanales.com/uplo...t-system-1.jpg No tiny fragile parts, just a couple big strong ratchet rings with a spring on each side. You can pop the system open for inspection and lubrication by hand, or a 40mm headset wrench works great. Don't overpack them, you're not going for anywhere near a 100% grease fill in there.
Bonus: they're audible enough to serve as a pedestrian-alert device when coasting
Bonus: they're audible enough to serve as a pedestrian-alert device when coasting
#12
Senior Member
Her is a good one, if you don't mind used. https://www.ebay.com/itm/DT-Swiss-Ony...item19d46b7c40
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 6,957
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times
in
5 Posts
I've been working at an LBS since the star-ratchet system was first introduced, and never seen them have the slightest problem as a result of where the bearing is located. That includes ample numbers of Bontrager-branded DT Swiss hubs, since I'm currently at a Trek shop. They're a good hub.
#14
Insane Bicycle Mechanic
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: other Vancouver
Posts: 9,811
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 788 Post(s)
Liked 688 Times
in
367 Posts
Phil cassette hubs are $400+ each. That'll buy a lot of "normal" Shimano hubs. If it's got disk brakes, you won't slow down much with a Dura-Ace hub I'd go with a Deore or Deore XT hub and overhaul it every year or two.
__________________
Jeff Wills
Comcast nuked my web page. It will return soon..
Jeff Wills
Comcast nuked my web page. It will return soon..
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: San Jose, California
Posts: 3,504
Bikes: 2001 Tommasini Sintesi w/ Campagnolo Daytona 10 Speed
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 145 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 35 Times
in
30 Posts
And they are a poor design because the right axle support beaing is inboard. The star ratchet solved a problem that did not exist. The old Onyx was their best hub design. https://www.dtswiss.com/Resources/Old..._20070404.aspx
Viewing the documentation for the newer 240s clearly shows an oversize axle through the entire hub shell and freehub from end cap to end cap. This effectively strengthens the axle thereby allowing a little leeway for a more inboard bearing.
=8-)
__________________
5000+ wheels built since 1984...
Disclaimer:
1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
5. My all time favorite book is:
Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life
5000+ wheels built since 1984...
Disclaimer:
1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
5. My all time favorite book is:
Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life
#16
Senior Member
The inboard bearing solution was primarily for straight through single dimension M10 axles with no exotic materials adjustment.
Viewing the documentation for the newer 240s clearly shows an oversize axle through the entire hub shell and freehub from end cap to end cap. This effectively strengthens the axle thereby allowing a little leeway for a more inboard bearing.
=8-)
Viewing the documentation for the newer 240s clearly shows an oversize axle through the entire hub shell and freehub from end cap to end cap. This effectively strengthens the axle thereby allowing a little leeway for a more inboard bearing.
=8-)
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: San Jose, California
Posts: 3,504
Bikes: 2001 Tommasini Sintesi w/ Campagnolo Daytona 10 Speed
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 145 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 35 Times
in
30 Posts
If it constantly breaks requiring RMAs and recalls...it's bad design.
However, if it works - then you are effectively arguing half-empty / half-full for all intensive purposes.
=8-)
My concern as a wheelbuilder is:
1. Does it work?
2. Does it follow general specs?
3. Can I build it in a wheel, trued, tensioned and dished to my satisfaction?
=8-)
Also, understand the Phil did the same way back when first designing their hubs with beefy heavy oversized axles - to offset non-linear loads created by misaligned dropouts common to poorly maintained bikes - which held true later with increasing drive side spacings...
=8-)
However, if it works - then you are effectively arguing half-empty / half-full for all intensive purposes.
=8-)
My concern as a wheelbuilder is:
1. Does it work?
2. Does it follow general specs?
3. Can I build it in a wheel, trued, tensioned and dished to my satisfaction?
=8-)
Also, understand the Phil did the same way back when first designing their hubs with beefy heavy oversized axles - to offset non-linear loads created by misaligned dropouts common to poorly maintained bikes - which held true later with increasing drive side spacings...
=8-)
__________________
5000+ wheels built since 1984...
Disclaimer:
1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
5. My all time favorite book is:
Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life
5000+ wheels built since 1984...
Disclaimer:
1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
5. My all time favorite book is:
Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life
#18
Old fart
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Appleton WI
Posts: 24,934
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.
Mentioned: 153 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3571 Post(s)
Liked 3,366 Times
in
1,915 Posts
#19
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 257
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Sounds like a good idea for one or two of my older bikes though . . .
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
darb85
Road Bike Marketplace
5
05-01-16 07:45 PM
Pukeskywalker
Cyclocross and Gravelbiking (Recreational)
5
04-12-14 07:20 AM