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Old 08-18-12, 07:50 PM   #1
whitestroke
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rear derailer, does this look proper?

Just got this bike from a police auction. Doesn't go into high gear (1) or lower 2 two gears (6&7). It definitely needs new cables. But I'm wondering if the adjuster is broken or facing the correct direction? Or is there anything else that needs replacing. I'm a good mechanic but know little about bikes.



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Old 08-18-12, 08:17 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whitestroke View Post
Just got this bike from a police auction. Doesn't go into high gear (1) or lower 2 two gears (6&7). It definitely needs new cables. But I'm wondering if the adjuster is broken or facing the correct direction? Or is there anything else that needs replacing. I'm a good mechanic but know little about bikes.



It appears the cable is unwinding right into the cable housing, which you need to correct first. Replace the cable and then follow the full adjustment procedure:t http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...nts-derailleur.
Then, if not working let us know about any remaining problems
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Old 08-18-12, 08:21 PM   #3
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No, some mechanically declined person took the adjusting barrel off, and did a Humpty-Dumpty (couldn't put the pieces together again).

If you look at it you'll see that the adjuster is reversed. The large head goes up and works with the spring loaded black knob to adjust up and down. Remove the cable and remove all the parts related to the barrel, and see if you can sort it out, or find an exploded view on the makers site. You don't need to find the identical model, since companies use the same basic design on a variety of models.

Can't speak to the rest of the bike, but this looks totally fixable, and you might have found yourself a decent bargain.
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Old 08-18-12, 08:29 PM   #4
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it looks reversed because the bike is upside down in the picture.

Also, have you tried riding it? the fact that you can't get to the top and low gears is because you're trying to go from the middle all the way to the highest/lowest gears on the outside. The chain is suppose to switch gears to the adjacent sprocket; you can't bend the chain between the cassette and derailleur far enough to get the chain on the derailleur to line up with the outermost gears.
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Old 08-18-12, 08:46 PM   #5
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it looks reversed because the bike is upside down in the picture.
Yes the RD is upside down in the photo, but I assume the OP knows that much.

The adjusting barrel is 100% for sure in upside down. The head end has to be on the housing side not between it's fixture and the anchor. The reason the OP cannot get the full range of travel is that the arm is hitting the head of the adjuster.
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Old 08-18-12, 08:51 PM   #6
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it looks reversed because the bike is upside down in the picture.

Also, have you tried riding it? the fact that you can't get to the top and low gears is because you're trying to go from the middle all the way to the highest/lowest gears on the outside. The chain is suppose to switch gears to the adjacent sprocket; you can't bend the chain between the cassette and derailleur far enough to get the chain on the derailleur to line up with the outermost gears.
Well your both wrong, half the adjuster is on one side of the rear derailleur stop and the innards are between the stop and cable anchor.
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Old 08-18-12, 08:55 PM   #7
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Well your both wrong, half the adjuster is on one side of the rear derailleur stop and the innards are between the stop and cable anchor.
I don't know which both you're referring to, but read my first post on the thread.
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Old 08-18-12, 09:07 PM   #8
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i misunderstood your first post. so you're saying the derailleur is not moving far enough because the black knob is not correctly installed? I don't see how it's upside down. All you need to do is turn it and make it fit.
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Old 08-18-12, 09:16 PM   #9
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i misunderstood your first post. so you're saying the derailleur is not moving far enough because the black knob is not correctly installed? I don't see how it's upside down. All you need to do is turn it and make it fit.
No the black plastic part is in roughly the right place. It's the head of the of the metal barrel adjuster that's in the way. The adjuster has to be reversed so the head is inside the plastic knob it works with.

Take a look at the adjuster assembly to the right here. Or look at any derailleur and note that the fatter part (head) of the adjuster holds the end of the housing, with the smaller end going into the derailleur from the outside toward the anchor bolt like the similar derailleur pictured here. Note the rim of the head of the metal adjuster unit peeking though the top of the plastic knob.
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Old 08-18-12, 09:19 PM   #10
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I don't know which both you're referring to, but read my first post on the thread.
My bad FBinNY, I just skipped over your response and all I retained was
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If you look at it you'll see that the adjuster is reversed.
To the OP. The adjuster is in 3 parts as shown below. There is the silver barrel with threads at the end, a spring and the black or gray adjuster. As FBinNY said you need to disconnect the anchor nut and pull the cable out of the stop. Now take all the three parts off the housing which can be installed without the cable in place. First take the spring and put it over the threaded end of the silver barrel. Next push the silver barrel into the back of the black adjuster (the wider end). Now you will see the threaded end of the silver barrel coming out of the front of the black adjuster. Now screw the threaded end into the rear derailleur cable stop (the place where the cable threads through the derailleur. You will probably need to push the silver barrel into the black adjuster so the threads will screw in such as a small phillips screw driver. (other wise the black adjuster won't engae the barrel) but it begins to thread, simply need to pull up on the black adjuster as you screw it in. Now your left with seeing if you can twist the cable together well enough to fit through the adjuster..

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Old 08-18-12, 11:06 PM   #11
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Thanks for all the help. Okay if I understand this right I just need to take the silver threaded part, and screw it in from the other side. The black plastic part stays on the side its on and covers the silver threaded part.
I don't see a spring on my derailer, will it work without it? What purpose does it serve?
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Old 08-18-12, 11:22 PM   #12
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Thanks for all the help. Okay if I understand this right I just need to take the silver threaded part, and screw it in from the other side. The black plastic part stays on the side its on and covers the silver threaded part.
I don't see a spring on my derailer, will it work without it? What purpose does it serve?
You basically have it. The spring is necesary for the black part to work right, but you can live without it and the black knob and just use the threaded adjuster barrel alone. The way this works is that the black knob does 2 jobs. The first is to give you a better grip on the adjuster, nd the second is to keep it from rotating and changing adjustment. If you look at the base of the knob you'll see some bumps which engage the RD. The spring pushes it down so the knob (and barrel) can't turn. When you turn the knob, the spring allows it to lift back as it goes over the bumps.

If you can't find the original spring, either shop form one that fits at the hardware store, or use any spring that will go around the thread of the adjuster and leave the knob off.
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Old 08-18-12, 11:47 PM   #13
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Thanks for all the help. Okay if I understand this right I just need to take the silver threaded part, and screw it in from the other side. The black plastic part stays on the side its on and covers the silver threaded part.
I don't see a spring on my derailer, will it work without it? What purpose does it serve?
Just a minor correction, the silver threaded part does not screw into black plastic part, you simply push it through and the the silver threaded part threads screw into the derailleur. With cable in such a mess and assuming you will try and use it prior to getting a new cable , you may find it easier to feed the cable end through the silver threaded part first, than slide on the spring (when you get one) and black plastic part and then screw it into the derailleur, otherwise you be fighting the frayed cable trying to pass it through the assembled barrel adjuster; once you try it you'll see what I mean.
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Old 08-19-12, 05:50 AM   #14
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slide on the spring (when you get one)
Have a squiz inside every clicky pen you come across, you should find one the right diameter before too long. If the spring's too long, just snip it with sidecutters. Oh wait, you're a mechanic, I don't have to tell you this stuff.

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Well your both wrong
Heh, you gotta think twice before you tell FB he's wrong
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Old 08-19-12, 10:55 AM   #15
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Bike for $62.

If anyones wondering what you get at a police auction. Here it is for $62.





A clicky pen
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Old 08-19-12, 10:56 AM   #16
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Heh, you gotta think twice before you tell FB he's wrong
I know he'll screw up someday and I'm ready to pounce on it!!:roflm ao2:
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Old 08-19-12, 11:07 AM   #17
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If anyones wondering what you get at a police auction. Here it is for $62.
Congrats, you found an oyster with a pearl in it instead of sand.
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Old 08-19-12, 02:38 PM   #18
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If anyones wondering what you get at a police auction. Here it is for $62.





A clicky pen
If you look at your front shifter where the cable housing enters the unit, you'll see the same adjuster/spring/plastic knob setup as your derailleur. Well, you won't see the spring since it's sandwiched between the other two parts, but you'll get the idea.
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Old 08-28-12, 08:14 PM   #19
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Ordered the Jagwire kit for derailers. Put new wire on and adjusted as explained on this site. After caps and wires settled in, I adjusted about one turn out and the shifting is good to go. Never did find the correct size spring for adjuster. Think I'll put a dab of Locktite on adjuster screw and not worry about it. Thanks everyone, next I'll attack the front derailer. It is stuck on smallest chainring.
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Old 08-28-12, 08:23 PM   #20
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I know he'll screw up someday and I'm ready to pounce on it!!:roflm ao2:
Hey. I've been wrong before (plenty of times) and I'll be wrong again. You just have to be alert and patient.
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Old 08-28-12, 08:59 PM   #21
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Ordered the Jagwire kit for derailers. Put new wire on and adjusted as explained on this site. After caps and wires settled in, I adjusted about one turn out and the shifting is good to go. Never did find the correct size spring for adjuster. Think I'll put a dab of Locktite on adjuster screw and not worry about it. Thanks everyone, next I'll attack the front derailer. It is stuck on smallest chainring.
Don't use loctite. You want to be able to adjust it in the future.

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Hey. I've been wrong before (plenty of times) and I'll be wrong again. You just have to be alert and patient.
I thought I was wrong once, but I was wrong.
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Old 09-11-12, 10:45 PM   #22
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Finally got around to the rear derailer. Didn't bother to read up on it. Adjusted the 2 screws that limit derailer movement, installed new housing and cable, and pulled cable tight. No adjusting needed, all 21 speeds work. That big sprocket is sure hard to spin. lol
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