Cycling and bicycle discussion forums. 
   Click here to join our community Log in to access your Control Panel  


Go Back   > >

Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 08-19-12, 08:05 AM   #1
teachme
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
teachme's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Nederland, Texas
Bikes: 2011 Specialized Sectuer, 1988 Bianchi
Posts: 1,441
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
2000 miles on rear derailer...

It seems to be worn out. The spring does not quite spring back and my chain slips down the cog sometimes. Chain and casette have recently been replaced. Can the derailer be adjusted? I would like to get a few hundred more miles out of it, or is it time to replace it?
teachme is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-12, 08:16 AM   #2
HillRider 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '''96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '12 Surly Pacer, All are 3x8,9 or 10. It is hilly around here!
Posts: 28,849
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 66 Post(s)
It sounds like you have a chain length and/or shift cable tension adjustment problem. Unless you ride in hub deep sand all the time no derailleur will ever wear out in 2000 miles. I have 25,000 miles on a mid-line Shimano rear derailleur and it isn't close to being replaced.
HillRider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-12, 08:18 AM   #3
teachme
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
teachme's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Nederland, Texas
Bikes: 2011 Specialized Sectuer, 1988 Bianchi
Posts: 1,441
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by HillRider View Post
It sounds like you have a chain length and/or shift cable tension adjustment problem. Unless you ride in hub deep sand all the time no derailleur will ever wear out in 2000 miles. I have 25,000 miles on a mid-line Shimano rear derailleur and it isn't close to being replaced.
Should I take a link out of the chain?
teachme is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-12, 08:18 AM   #4
rithem
Foward Leaning Attitude
 
rithem's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: RHODE-MF-ISLAND
Bikes:
Posts: 851
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Seems to me whom ever replaced the chain and cassette could address your issue otherwise what u are describing is sorta vague.
rithem is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-12, 08:19 AM   #5
teachme
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
teachme's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Nederland, Texas
Bikes: 2011 Specialized Sectuer, 1988 Bianchi
Posts: 1,441
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by rithem View Post
Seems to me whom ever replaced the chain and cassette could address your issue otherwise what u are describing is sorta vague.
Yes, I could bring it back to the LBS but I am trying to learn to do my own repairs...
teachme is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-12, 08:22 AM   #6
rithem
Foward Leaning Attitude
 
rithem's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: RHODE-MF-ISLAND
Bikes:
Posts: 851
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
2000 miles is low mileage go to lbs or post pix so we can see the rear d
rithem is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-12, 08:24 AM   #7
chriskmurray
Senior Member
 
chriskmurray's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Colorado Springs
Bikes: Borealis Echo, Ground Up Designs Ti Cross bike, Xtracycle, GT mod trials bike, pixie race machine
Posts: 1,121
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
A lot of times when your bike is not shifting to the higher gears very well it is something as simple as needing to replace the cable and housing on the read derailer.
chriskmurray is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-12, 08:26 AM   #8
FBinNY 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Posts: 29,685
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 232 Post(s)
+1 Derailleurs last nearly forever since they only move during a shift, and therefore there's no cause for wear.

More likely it's an adjustment as Hillrider says, but if you're referring to the spring that returns the derailleur to high gear, the issue may be cable friction. Depending on riding conditions it's fairly common for rust or dirt to cause friction inside the housings.

Start with some of the tutorials that are free on the net, and dial in the adjustments as well as possible. If it's OK but sluggish returning to high gear, especially from the 2nd to the outermost sprocket, then cable friction may be at play, and you may need to fieldstrip and clean/lube the housings or replace the cables.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-12, 08:26 AM   #9
HillRider 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '''96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '12 Surly Pacer, All are 3x8,9 or 10. It is hilly around here!
Posts: 28,849
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 66 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by teachme View Post
Should I take a link out of the chain?
No, you should get the problem diagnosed properly. Whoever did the chain and cassette replacement should be able to readjust the shifting.
HillRider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-12, 08:34 AM   #10
rithem
Foward Leaning Attitude
 
rithem's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: RHODE-MF-ISLAND
Bikes:
Posts: 851
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Agreed On housing Did they Chang that when they did the chain&cass?
rithem is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-12, 08:52 AM   #11
FBinNY 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Posts: 29,685
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 232 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by HillRider View Post
No, you should get the problem diagnosed properly. Whoever did the chain and cassette replacement should be able to readjust the shifting.
+1 Definitely have someone knowledgeable take a look. Not because it's rocket science, but because you can probably save some dough. A chain and cassette at 2000 miles seems premature (but not impossible) so it makes me suspect the person you have working on it now. A good diagnosis and proper identification of the problem can save you lots of dough. The causes can range from bad adjustments, bent hanger, cable friction, or lever issues, but chain length it way down the chart and can be eliminated immediately just by looking at the bike.

Shift to the small/small combination and look at the chain. If the chain is short enough the RD will take up the slack and the lower loop will run straight across. If it's hanging down like a possum belly then it's too long.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-12, 09:41 AM   #12
Homebrew01
Super Moderator
 
Homebrew01's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Ffld Cnty Connecticut
Bikes: Old Steelies I made, Old Cannondales
Posts: 19,719
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 112 Post(s)
If you want to work on it yourself, you can go here to see the steps to follow, http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help
then come back with specific questions.
__________________
Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike
Homebrew01 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-12, 09:45 AM   #13
dsbrantjr
Senior Member
 
dsbrantjr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Roswell, GA
Bikes: '93 Trek 750, '92 Schwinn Crisscross, '93 Mongoose Alta
Posts: 4,587
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 60 Post(s)
+1 on FB's comments. When checking for cable friction issues be especially suspicious of the last loop of housing which goes into your rear derailleur. Due to its position it is likely to catch water and road gunk and start binding. Never shorten a chain in attempt to address shifting issues; it is rarely the problem and a too-short chain can damage your derailleur or even your frame.
dsbrantjr is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-12, 01:43 PM   #14
Al1943
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Oklahoma
Bikes: Trek 5500, Colnago C-50
Posts: 9,433
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Yeah it sounds like you need to adjust the cable, from the rear of the bike try 1/2 counter-clockwise turn on the barrel adjuster.
2000 miles is nothing on a derailleur.
Al1943 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-12, 08:02 PM   #15
Myosmith
Lover of Old Chrome Moly
 
Myosmith's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: NW Minnesota
Bikes:
Posts: 2,548
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Realize that once you work on it, you have voided any warranty on the workmanship of the install. If you aren't confident that you can diagnose and fix the problem on your own, take it back to the shop that did the install and they should fix it under the original install agreement. Checking the rear derailleur adjustment and assuring that the chain is the proper length are normal parts of an installation. A good mechanic won't let a bike leave the shop unless everything he/she touched is in good working order.

Clean, lubed and in proper adjustment, a RD will last a long, long time. The only things that are likely to wear (usually in much more than 2,000 miles) are the two small sprockets and those are easily replaced. I've fixed up bikes that are 30+ years old, rusty and badly neglected. Almost always I've been able to use the RD after cleaning and lubing it. The only times I've replaced an RD has been for a substantial upgrade or when one has been damaged, never for wear. I'm sure there are riders who have actually worn out an RD, but it should take a lot of miles.

Last edited by Myosmith; 08-19-12 at 08:08 PM.
Myosmith is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-12, 08:57 PM   #16
mechBgon
Senior Member
 
mechBgon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Bikes:
Posts: 6,957
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Also, inspect the cable at the shifter end. It may be starting to break strands and fray, which can result in the type of symptoms I think you're describing here. Preemptively replacing the rear shift cable and housings every 2000-3000 miles isn't a bad idea.
mechBgon is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:00 PM.