Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
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Step one, eliminate the pedals for sure by replacing them with another pair. The odds of 2 pairs of pedals having having the same problem are prety high so if the noise persists, the pedals are cleared. Note, sometimes pedal threads themselves cause a click so make sure the the flat faces are clean, or add a washer.
After that life gets complicated, and the likely cause depends somewhat on the specifics of your BB and cranks. Old square taper, and spline drive cranks often click at the mounting even if they're tight.
Cartridge and the newer external BB systems can move in the shell. I test for this with a dab of brittle paint where they meet the shell, then ride hard for a few minutes. Any movement cracks the paint.
Also, if you have an external BB system where the spindle slips through the bearings, these are very prone to making noise at the spindle/bearing interface. pull out the spindle and inspect for telltale wear where the bearings sit, and reassemble with a thick grease there. Or try what I've found to work better. Build up the spindle with thin coat of paint so it's a tight fit at the bearing (I use a fairly pliable nylon paint).
That's just for starters, after that it could be anything. One hint is that you get the click at the moment of peak power, that means it could be chain tension related, either at a sprocket, or even the rear hub flexing forward at peak load.
Anyway, good luck, you may be for a long hunt.
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions”
- Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
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