Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
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20:1 odds that the lockring is somewhat loose so when you back off to stop the sprocket spins back against the lockring and jams there. It'll hold there and look and feel tight, but when you apply torque, it pulls off and rotates freely until it's tight. This can go on for a while until the lockring final comes off allowing the spocket to spin off, or you break your neck, whichever happens first.
You need to set the spocket correctly, here's how. Install the sprocket and tighten it with a chain whip as tight as you can. The best way is to brace the wheel in a corner and arrange the bar of the chain whip so you're pushing forward and down. The corner will hold the wheel so you can really tighten it. Not screw on the lockring, as set it tight buy not super tight.
Now, and this is the key part, find a steep hill and power up it, or do a hard sprint from a standing start to make sure the sprocket is torqued as tight as you'll ever torque it in the real world. Now slow down and stop without applying backforce on the cranks, and drive the lockring hard against the sprocket to lock it in place.
If you ever feel the least hint of slippage, loosen the lockring and repeat the sprint or hill climb process before resetting it.
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions”
- Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance