Taz1743

So I've finished upgrading the full drivetrain on my bike, and setting it back up is proving impossible.

Firstly, since upgrading these parts, the chain is skipping, more than once on each rotation. It doesn't matter where I place the chain on the back cog, either. Before I started buying new parts, there was a chain skip. The only part I haven't upgraded is the rear freewheel.

I've looked at many guides and don't understand where the tension is needed when fitting the cable to the derailleurs. Do I need the most tension on 1st/7th gear and for the front on 1/3?

Another problem, chain length. My old chain is about 6 links up compared to my new chain as I've removed the links because of the previous problems. Do I need more/less? I'm on 104 links.

The new rear derailleur has larger cogs than the old one, so my assumption was I actually needed more chain than the previous.

It would appear this whole project is too much for me. I've never, ever done much more than fix a puncture but I'm reaching that age where I really need to learn how to maintain a bike. I don't like the closest bike shop, and it doesn't solve the problem that I have a lack of experience.

I need my bike for day to day life. I was hoping just to get the chain sitting on the second ring on the crank, and somewhere like 4/5 at the back, but even when the derailleur doesn't have a chance at all of touching the chain, the chain still skips.

I thought I could just trial and error this, but there's only so much time you can spend doing something you aren't sure is going to work.

If there is anyone willing to go through some troubleshooting with me, that'd be great

Thanks

jimc101

If the guides here are too much https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...illeur-systems, then you are really out of your depth, and would be best of going and getting the bike sorted at a LBS (find one you like), and finding somewhere which does practical how to courses in your area.

ultraman6970

If you are in DC metro I can fix you the bike for free but you have to bring me the bike.

rithem

align the rear d hanger --- you need this and some skill to perform this adjustment
dollars to donuts it's bent causing the skipping regardless of the age or quality of the parts

edsall78

If your cassette/freewheel is worn..then a new chain will skip--this is why they usually recommend replacing both at the same time.

I don't know about anything else..

Taz1743

I'm actually from England, which seems unusual on this forum. This seemed to be the best website around when needing advice

Taz1743

How do you go about buying the correct freewheel? I bought one, but it was screw on rather than just slip on like my old one

Taz1743

Even though it's new?

Monster Pete

The part you need is called a cassette. This is the newer design where the freewheel mechanism is in the wheel hub itself. The older, thread on freewheels use a completely different type of hub. Take your old cassette with you to the bike shop if possible so you have a reference.

Taz1743

The bike shop are too expensive, and I'm sick of them not respecting me as a customer. My money isn't worth leaving with them.

You say "newer design", but my hub is from the 90's, so nothing new?

Can you suggest anything on this; tension on the cable is highest on the highest gear, so 7th. I manually place the chain on this cog, and the derailleur assumes that position. But, when expecting the bike to do it, it doesn't. The derailleur just can't stretch itself, but can be done by hand!

Jeff Wills

1: Are there no other bike shops or independent bicycle repair shops you can go to?

2: Hub designs have not changed substantially since the '90's. "Freewheel" hubs started disappearing in the '80's, with "cassette" hubs taking over by by the end of the decade.

3: The rear shifting system is not adjusted correctly. It sounds like there is too much tension on the cable. Start here: https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...nts-derailleur . Follow all the steps, completely and in order.

jimc101

If your in the UK, there are very few places where you can't find more than 3-4 bike shops with in easy drive, you should be able to find one which you like.

If you want an idea of service prices, take a look at Evans prices lists, they publish these on-line, and most good LBS's will be similar, maybe a little cheaper, but should be no more.

For you complaining about the cost of repair, the shops have rent, rates, insurance, wages, Cytech training courses etc; none of this is free, and all has to be paid for.

Join a local cycling club, and make friends with the local shops, this will often lead to discounts at the shops associated with the local cycle clubs.

berner

Taz, my friend, hang on as best you can. I don't know if my experience is helpful or not, but I have learned to work on my own bike so that it works perfectly and very smoothly. I've been cycling now for 3 years and 8000 miles. The 8000 miles alone is a source of astonishment. In the beginning, several issues cropped up having to do with accurate shifting. The local bike shop was unable to resolve the issues so I embarked on an exploration of bike diagnosis via https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help. There are other resources but the Park Tool website is concise and comprehensive. You must follow their instructions to the letter and in the sequence presented. I want to assure you here that competence in maintaining your bike is not rocket science. Successful bike maintenance is available to all through step by step procedures. Best wishes for happy cycling. Bern

ultraman6970

OK you are not in the US...

U said you did a change in the drivetrain... you change what in specific???

RD?
FD?
Crankset?
Chain?
Cassette??
How many speeds???
Brifters, integrated shifters/brakes??
What brand are we talking about??

Just asking stuff you did not say in the original post, because probably is the RD that needs to be adjusted but no clue what stuff you have in there at all.

There are videos in you-tube with the set up of the RD and FD... if the problem is what i think it is, the fix is pretty simple but if you change the RD and the brifters and did not change the chain or the cassette or you mixed brands of components that could explain your problem.

DannoXYZ 

I recommend taking a step back and reading up and learning a lot more about bike components and how they all go together before continuing with your repairs. First, check out this site on the difference between a freewheel and cassette: Sheldon Brown - Freewheel or Cassette? . Then the various sections of the Park self-help guides should get you closer to getting it back together. Good luck!

rithem

I seen stranger things with new bikes. Instead of pissing around wondering get it checked.

Quoted from a DIY site check it out.

This can happen if your bike is dropped, crashed or bumped, or if it was poorly aligned at the manufacturer. The result is poor shifting even after all other adjustments have been made."]This can happen if your bike is dropped, crashed or bumped, or if it was poorly aligned at the manufacturer. The result is poor shifting even after all other adjustments have been made.

dddd

I am not so certain that a derailer hanger alignment problem exists.

If the derailer cage looks to be parallel with the largest sprockets (easiest to sight down) then it should be good enough for reliable indexing.

It is best to sight down the pulley cage with the cassette sprockets twice, once with the pullies oriented vertically (one above the other), and once with the pulleys oriented horizontally (one in front of the other).

This does sound like most likely a cable tension issue, perhaps the cable adjustment is 2 or even 3 gear positions off of where it should be?

SkyDog75

Lots of people are offering good advice. Instead of echoing what's already been said, I'll add another small idea: Tackle your problems or upgrades one at a time. When you look at the big picture and there are a bunch of problems, it's easy to be overwhelmed. But if you tackle your challenges one at a time, you may find that each one individually isn't too difficult to overcome if you're mechanically inclined. Before you know it, you'll have 'em all worked out. (And you'll find the next project to move on to.) ;-)

So looking at some of the items on your to-do list...
Chain Length
Rear Derailleur Adjustments
Cassette Replacement (maybe) to fix the skipping chain

rithem

I re-read the OP +1 to ^^^this^^^ there is way too much going on & I missed that he didn't replace the old cassette and that his chain length was iffy sheesh. yeah get learnedededed a little more step by step like starting with the directions that came with your new CHAIN!

otis66

Shift to the largest gear (chainring) in the front and the 2nd cog in the rear. This puts higher tension on the chain. Looking at your chain there should be a double "S" moving through the derailleur. If you do not see a double "S" the chain is too short. Now while the chain ring is in the largest ring and the rear in the 2nd cog shift to the largest rear cog. If you see hesitations, sticking or no shifting, your chain is too short..Also make sure your chain is compatible with the drive system ie...IG HG drive for shimano. A chain that is too long or too short will cause shifting problems. Make sure your chain is on the bicycle correctly.

Taz1743

Actually, I didn't get instructions with my chain tyvm

cranky old road 

One quick and easy check to make: Shift the chain to the middle front and middle rear gears. Those gears and the derailluer jockey wheels should all be aligned in the same plane. Also the chain should touch nothing but jockey wheel when passing through the rear derailleur.

Taz1743

I've taken a step back for a week or so to get a clear head, get some work out of the way and then return to the bike with a fresh head. I'll let you all know what's gone on.

I've returned the freewheel to the seller, and got a refund. On eBay I searched for my cassette and only one came up, used. This then leaves me a problem. I either buy a new wheel or try source a cassette. Some factors into this decision are, the wheel isn't worth much (I believe), although it is of decent quality. Plus, I'd have to source a new wheel which I was happy with, which usually involves more money.

While I'm aware of this issue, I've been trying to adjust the front derailleur. With the information I've learnt now set in my head properly, I can apply a bit of it and actually know what's what. The front derailleur wasn't reaching the largest ring (still isn't but we'll get to that). I undid the hex, pushed the derailleur all the way out, as far as it would go, and then attached the cable. Success, I could shift through the gears. The problem now is, the derailleur will not sit above the outer ring, no matter how many adjustments are made. It's kind of like the ring is just a little too far. Can anyone give advice on this?

I'm not touching the rear derailleur until I'm happy with the front. I like making sure I have the bike to use, even in a sorry state. For example, I had it sitting in 2nd on front, 4th on rear without any way to change gears. It skipped when pressure was applied, but it got me to work when needed.

Any more info needed and I'll try provide it

Bill Kapaun

The repair section of the Park Tool website lets you "mouse over" any part of the bike to give you the link to the instructions for that specific part.

It appears you are trying to do your adjustments from the middle, but don't know where the middle is.
START AT STEP ONE of the procedure! There's a reason for this.

https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help

Size the chain
FDER next
RDER next

wrk101

+1 Park tool site is outstanding, don't take short cuts.

+1 There are freewheels and there are cassettes. Technology is totally different, they don't mount the same, etc. Go to the Sheldon Brown site, he discusses it fully, or head to a bike shop.

+1 Shop does not show you respect? Find another shop. "Vote with your feet." Realize you should not expect detailed free advice, mechanics need to be turning wrenches for paying customers for a shop to make money (and for the shop to continue to pay the mechanic). So if someone goes into a shop, and expects 15 minutes of free detailed discussion on what is wrong with their bike, how to fix it, shops around here would not be very respectful (note, I am not saying this is the case in this situation). I always make sure to buy something, anything, when I get "free" advice.

Another comment on respect, I like older bikes. Most shops around here have zero interest in older bikes. It took some time, but I found the two or three that liked them, and I spend my time and money there.

As far as shops charging too much, if you factor in the cost of tools, overhead, rent, taxes, wages, making enough money to cover the slow season, etc., its hard for shops to make money, even at seemingly "high" rates. I live in a relatively small area. One or two shops a year go out of business. Its a tough business. If someone came to me wanting to open a bike shop, and looking to borrow money from me, no way would I invest in it. I just see too many good shops close.

Finally, to further diagnose your issues, I would need to know a lot more, starting with what type of shifters? Myself, I almost always start on the rear derailleur first.

I would stop buying parts on ebay. Ebay or other internet sources of parts are best suited for someone that knows exactly what they need. Too many hassles and costs returning products that turn out to be wrong. While buying the same parts will cost more, the reduced headaches, and the in person advice, is worth the premium IMHO.