Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Results 1 to 10 of 10
  1. #1
    Senior Member Bahnzo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Loveland, CO
    Posts
    177
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Is this rear derailleur ok?

    I've noticed that when in the two lower gears, the derailleur seems to "sit" on the gears. Not sure if this is something I need to look into or what?

    RearDerail.jpg

  2. #2
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    4,380
    Mentioned
    3 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

  3. #3
    bike whisperer Kimmo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Melbourne, Oz
    My Bikes
    copy/paste links: http://velospace.org/node/36949 http://velospace.org/node/47746 http://velospace.org/node/47747
    Posts
    6,842
    Mentioned
    9 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    No B-screw on that derailleur...

    Should prolly get a better one.

  4. #4
    Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    34
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    While we're on this topic, is there any way to adjust the pulley position on a rear derailleur that has no B-screw? Removing links? Shims?

  5. #5
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    New Rochelle, NY
    My Bikes
    too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
    Posts
    22,387
    Mentioned
    65 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    Take a careful look at the photo, and see that the stop cam hasn't come up to the stop on the hanger. That means that there's nothing keeping the RD from coming forward more. Odds are that the opposite tab on the stop cam is either sheered off, or the cam is mispositioned on the RD, so it isn't doing anything to set the angel.
    Pull the RD off, and look for a tab engaging the cam to the RD, If it's sheered off you need to replace the cam. If there is a tab or other stop, but it's in the wrong place, you should be able to remove and rotate the cam so it works properly when remounted.

    So it's either a 1 minute repair, or you're probably SOL
    FB
    Chain-L site

    An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

    “Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin

    “One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

    WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.

  6. #6
    Senior Member Chombi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    My Bikes
    1986 Alan Record Carbonio, 1985 Vitus Plus Carbone 7, 1984 Peugeot PSV, 1972 Line Seeker, 1986(est.) Medici Aerodynamic (Project), 1985(est.) Peugeot PY10FC (Project)
    Posts
    9,546
    Mentioned
    13 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    There definitely something wring with maybe the way the derailleur was installed as that Huret rear derailleur should easily be able to handle those big low gear cogs with no problem. Forum members with the same or similar Huret RDs on their bikes should be able to help as soon a they start chiming into this thread. Try changing the thread title to something that mentions "Huret rear derailleur" on it to snag those guys into this discussion.

    Chombi

  7. #7
    Old fart JohnDThompson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Appleton WI
    My Bikes
    Several, mostly not name brands.
    Posts
    13,085
    Mentioned
    13 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Huret did offer a version of the mounting plate that allowed "B-screw" adjustment:



    Unfortunately, they're rare as hen's teeth these days.

    Is it possible the OP is using the wrong mounting plate for the dropout, i.e. a Huret plate on a Campy-type dropout or vice-versa?

    More pictures would help, like a straight-on side view to see the "angle of the dangle."

  8. #8
    Senior Member Bahnzo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Loveland, CO
    Posts
    177
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Ok, I'm still pretty new so I'm still trying to get up to speed on terminology. It is correct there is no B-screw. However, the two pulley's do seem like they can be moved up and away from the gears, there's just nothing to set or adjust to keep them there.

    I got this bike from a guy who had it hanging in his garage for years, so I haven't changed or replaced anything, and I didn't get the impression the guy did much of anything either.

    I'll try to get some more pics, taken outside, later on if possible.

  9. #9
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    New Rochelle, NY
    My Bikes
    too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
    Posts
    22,387
    Mentioned
    65 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    You don't need new pictures. Re-read my earlier post, and look at your fist photo, or at the bike itself.

    You'll see that the stop plate's tab isn't engaging the stop position on the hanger, and so is doing nothing to keep the RD from angling farther forward.

    There are a few possibilities,

    1- everything on the RD is OK, but the stop plate is made for a different hanger as John suggested
    2- it's the wrong stop plate for this RD, or mounted wrong so the tab is in the wrong place
    3- the corresponding part of the plate that engages the RD is broken off, making the plate useless for setting the angle of the RD.

    Another possibility exists. Some RDs of that era had springs in the upper body, that pulled them back with regard to the hanger (or stop cam). Offhand I don't know if your RD is one of these, but if so one leg of that spring is either broken off or dislodged.

    If you do post more photos, remove the RD and post one showing the stop plate and upper body from the stop plate side.
    FB
    Chain-L site

    An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

    “Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin

    “One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

    WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.

  10. #10
    Senior Member Bahnzo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Loveland, CO
    Posts
    177
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Ok here's something I found:

    This was one of the best derailleurs of the time - early ‘80s. The paralellogram was horizontal, but the cage moved on a second unsprung parallelogram to let it cope with a very large range of sprockets. This is the steel Eco version - the original Duopar was titanium...
    This seems to explain exactly what I'm seeing. There is one spring on there which keeps the two pulleys vertical (if I unhook the spring, they fold back on themselves). The other way the pulleys move, isn't sprung...the unsprung from the quote above...so it seems to me it's meant to do this.

    Edit: I also found a page here that talks about it. THIS post in particular seems to also mention that maybe I'm just being paranoid and the way the RD hangs is how it was meant to be.
    Last edited by Bahnzo; 08-28-12 at 08:24 PM.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •