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  1. #1
    Senior Member Reeses's Avatar
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    Would this wrench fit a Sugino 75 BB?

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/PARK-BICYCLE...item43b28f51a5

    I need to remove my bottom bracket but the drive side crank threads are stripped, so I can't get to it with the regular BB wrench...

  2. #2
    Retro Grouch onespeedbiker's Avatar
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    The width of the lands on the drive side is 36mm, which is the same as many headsets, so a headset tool such as below would work

    YT-HCW10-NCL-TOP.jpg
    Also if you have any threads left in your crank, you might want to try a Bicycle Research TC-8; http://www.amazon.com/Bicycle-Resear...+Research+TC-8. It doesn't cut threads, but if they are crossed and/or buggered, it will chase the threads so you can use a standard removal tool to remove the crank arm
    Last edited by onespeedbiker; 08-29-12 at 12:37 AM.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Reeses's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by onespeedbiker View Post
    No, the tool you want is a Park HCW-4; http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-HCW-.../dp/B000AOA2G8. Park is not the only tool manufacturer and anything with 36mm wrench head will work. I would not suggest using an adjustable wrench as the lands are very narrow and they usually slip off causing more problems. I'm curious what you did to strip the threads and what regular BB wrench you used. It would seem stripped threads would not effect the wrench needed to R&R the fixed cup.

    If you meant you rounded off the lands, I hope you remembered your fixed cup has reverse threads.
    Would this work too?
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Headset-Head...item2a1e2e7e65

    I used a big adjustable wrench to tighten the BB because i didn't have anything else. I've seen the HCW-4 but I can't use that now because the 36mm end is boxed, and I cant get it on the lands since the crank arm is in the way. So I need something with an 36mm end that I can slide it from the side like in the link above.

    Quote Originally Posted by onespeedbiker View Post
    The width of the lands on the drive side is 36mm, which is the same as many headsets, so a headset tool such as below would work

    YT-HCW10-NCL-TOP.jpg
    ah thank you
    Last edited by Reeses; 08-29-12 at 12:23 AM.

  4. #4
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    They made a wrench just for that, HCW 3: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Park-tools-s...item4169d2fa14

    Non-box end 36mm, you need room to slip the wrench in there, but on a track crank that shouldn't be a problem.

    Edit: Available cheap on nashbar, and it's probably the better laser cut version made right before it was discontinued: http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product...97_-1___203633
    Last edited by wesmamyke; 08-29-12 at 02:54 AM.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by onespeedbiker View Post
    The width of the lands on the drive side is 36mm, which is the same as many headsets, so a headset tool such as below would work
    Also if you have any threads left in your crank, you might want to try a Bicycle Research TC-8; http://www.amazon.com/Bicycle-Resear...+Research+TC-8. It doesn't cut threads, but if they are crossed and/or buggered, it will chase the threads so you can use a standard removal tool to remove the crank arm
    The HS wrench might work or not. If the cup is tight an open end wrench of this type isn't rigid enough and will flex open and slip, or worse could crack and you'll be punching the crank.

    For less than the cost of a headset wrench or BB chasing tool, neither of which assures success, you could buy a pair of Jacobs Chuck removal wrenches and have the crank off in 10 seconds with little effort, and no damage to anything. I've been suggesting these for people in your situation for 30 years, and AFAIK, no one who every tried a pair failed to remove their crank.
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  6. #6
    Senior Member Reeses's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FBinNY View Post
    The HS wrench might work or not. If the cup is tight an open end wrench of this type isn't rigid enough and will flex open and slip, or worse could crack and you'll be punching the crank.

    For less than the cost of a headset wrench or BB chasing tool, neither of which assures success, you could buy a pair of Jacobs Chuck removal wrenches and have the crank off in 10 seconds with little effort, and no damage to anything. I've been suggesting these for people in your situation for 30 years, and AFAIK, no one who every tried a pair failed to remove their crank.
    How would I go about removing the crank using that?

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Reeses View Post
    How would I go about removing the crank using that?
    The same way you remove a drill chuck. The two wedges are made with a long shallow taper, so as they're tapped in, from both sides they get thicker and pop the crank off. They're in pairs so the opposite faces stay parallel.

    I use these and sometimes need to put a couple of cone wrenches or a pedal wrench behind them to take up the space on longer spindles, but other than that the wedges are all you need.

    A few people here on the forum have taken up my suggestion about these. maybe someone will post confirming how well they do the job.
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    “Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin

    “One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

    WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.

  8. #8
    Senior Member Reeses's Avatar
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    Okay, I got the wrench and it worked out okay, I managed to remove everything. So I installed a new Sugino 75 bottom bracket, and am feeling some resistance (not buttery smooth like my friends say it's supposed to be).

    First I greased the cups and the ball bearings (in their cages) with White Lithium grease, then torqued the drive side cup down. And I inserted the little plastic cylinder thing and the spindle, and then put the n.d.s. cup in. I tightened it until I could feel the spindle was no longer wobbling (no play when I pulled it away and towards the bike), but I could still feel some resistance in the bearings, when I spun the spindle by hand. What is wrong?

    Quote Originally Posted by FBinNY View Post
    The same way you remove a drill chuck. The two wedges are made with a long shallow taper, so as they're tapped in, from both sides they get thicker and pop the crank off. They're in pairs so the opposite faces stay parallel.

    I use these and sometimes need to put a couple of cone wrenches or a pedal wrench behind them to take up the space on longer spindles, but other than that the wedges are all you need.

    A few people here on the forum have taken up my suggestion about these. maybe someone will post confirming how well they do the job.
    Where can I buy them?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Reeses View Post


    Where can I buy them?
    Jacobs chuck wedges are sold by industrial tool sources and larger hardware (not hardware/houseware) stores with commercial accounts. Or you can google Jacobs chuck removal wedges, and find links to a number of sources. I used to keep a few sets for sale to dealers, but don't have any now. I'm thinking of stocking them again, because many of the commercial sources have high minimum orders making it inconvenient.

    BTW- I also have a few sets of the original Sugino BB wrenches made for this BB, with the pin, lock ring, and fixed cup sizes. In case you or anyone else is interested.
    Last edited by FBinNY; 09-06-12 at 09:32 PM.
    FB
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    An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

    “Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin

    “One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

    WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.

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