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  1. #1
    Retro Grouch onespeedbiker's Avatar
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    Wheel building and a Rim question

    Just found out that (at least for me) vertical truing must be done prior to tensioning. I took a newly made rear wheel for a ride and when I came back I was surprised to see a 1.5 mm hop (I'm sure it was a tensioning issue as the wheel just didn't feel right when I was centering the hub). Thinking I could just tighten some spokes and it would be good, I found that after the spokes are tightened it is beyond my ability to adjust a hop out of the wheel. I would tighten a few spokes, which would cause two more hops and throw the horizontal centering off. After about 2 hours I realized I was playing a fools game and went off on a ride to cool my jets. I didn't get back to the wheel until the next afternoon, but this time I de-tensioned the spokes first; the result was a wheel that trued up fast and tensioned without any further probelms. When you think about it it makes sense but I was too much into the project to be circumspect; anyway I really like learning new things.

    I also have a rim question. I just built up a Nuovo Record hub wheelset with Sub CR18 hubs; it looks very shiny. But it got me to thinking. I knew the rim was wider than most my other rims by a millimeter or two (22.5; I considered using some M-13ii rims, but I was looking for more of a touring rim) and usually don't run a tire smaller than 25x700c tires. But what if I ran a 22/23x 700c tire where the rim was wider than the tire? Does this become an issue? I actually did mount some Vittoria 23x700c tires, but they are overly wide for a 23mm tire measuring 24.5mm wide on the cr-18 rims. My question is not what is the limit when mounting tires on wide rims, but is there an optimum matching or rim width and tire size; and when it's close call is it better to go wider or narrower? Thanks for any responses.

  2. #2
    Senior Member mrrabbit's Avatar
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    Tad wider is better than a tad narrower...protects the edges of the sidewall better during curb scrapes and flats. I'd rather lose the tire than the rim - wheel re-build is way more expensive than a tire in most cases.

    M13II are very soft rims and joint quality is 50/50 - don't buy unless you can pick out the best two from a pile.

    I like to go 23c on 622-14/15 rims. I like to go 25c on 622-16/17 rims. I like to go 28c on 622-18 rims. Just my preferences - also what is pretty common.

    You'll find quite a few people will scale that up one step just to have a softer rim courtesy of the tire size increase.

    =8-)
    4000+ wheels built since 1984...

    Disclaimer:

    1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
    2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
    3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
    4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
    5. My all time favorite book is:

    Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life

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