Component upgrade...DIY or let the shop do it
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Component upgrade...DIY or let the shop do it
OK...I got a new set of F/R Ultegra ders and a new set of Ultegra shifters for 2004 OCR2. Can't wait to get them on, but here's my question...
I've never done shifter of derailleur replacement. Will I be setting myself up for pain frustration if I try to do it myself, or should I just take to the LBS and fork over the $ to avoid aggravation. I really like doing things myself, but (as my wife constantly reminds of) I still don't know my limits.
I've never done shifter of derailleur replacement. Will I be setting myself up for pain frustration if I try to do it myself, or should I just take to the LBS and fork over the $ to avoid aggravation. I really like doing things myself, but (as my wife constantly reminds of) I still don't know my limits.
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Half the fun of owning a bike is working on it. Give it a shot. If you get stuck to the point of confusion, you can always bring it to the shop and have them finish it off. Lots of good online resources, too. If you are the least bit mechanically inclined this is not a herculean feat.
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You may want to practice first by removing and replacing your current shifters.
The hardest part is probably going to be re-taping the bars.
The hardest part is probably going to be re-taping the bars.
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Soo... shifters and rear derailers are easy to mount correctly. You'll have to adjust the cable with barrel adjusters, and maybe the high and low limit screws, but it's a very straightforward procedure.
Front derailers can be hard to install correctly when using indexed shifting (which you will be, with STI). The cage has to be installed at just the right height and angle so that you can make front shifts smoothly from any gear, without any chain rub in any gear. It might take you an hour or two if it's your first try, but you'll learn a lot and won't ever have to do it again for the life of the front derailer.
Front derailers can be hard to install correctly when using indexed shifting (which you will be, with STI). The cage has to be installed at just the right height and angle so that you can make front shifts smoothly from any gear, without any chain rub in any gear. It might take you an hour or two if it's your first try, but you'll learn a lot and won't ever have to do it again for the life of the front derailer.
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The only way you will define your limits, or extend them any further is to do it yourself. Remember that it's a bicycle, not an airplane. Given the right tools and information, as well as a modicum of mechanical ability you can do this. Of course you should find some directions for the components you're working on - unless you're a real glutton for punishment, that is. But seriously, there is so much info available on the internet in general, and in these forums in particular, let alone in writing that you shouldn't have to search far to find just what you need.
Once you decide you're ready, take them one at a time. Start with the front first, as it will be easier to set up. Do it when you have more time than you think you will need. You might need to take a coffee break or two. It wouldn't hurt to double up on cables and housing. It might save you a trip to the LBS in the event of an error (I have personally forgotten to pull the cable out before cutting the housing - ouch!). And in the event you do nail it the first time, you'll have spares. Remember to buy a dozen of those little aluminum cable end cap thingies for that pro look.
Keep in mind you're not a pro bike mechanic. But once you do master some of the more serious maintenance chores it will be a blessing not to have to depend on the LBS - who's mechanics might not be ALL THAT anyway.
All the best. DanO
Once you decide you're ready, take them one at a time. Start with the front first, as it will be easier to set up. Do it when you have more time than you think you will need. You might need to take a coffee break or two. It wouldn't hurt to double up on cables and housing. It might save you a trip to the LBS in the event of an error (I have personally forgotten to pull the cable out before cutting the housing - ouch!). And in the event you do nail it the first time, you'll have spares. Remember to buy a dozen of those little aluminum cable end cap thingies for that pro look.
Keep in mind you're not a pro bike mechanic. But once you do master some of the more serious maintenance chores it will be a blessing not to have to depend on the LBS - who's mechanics might not be ALL THAT anyway.
All the best. DanO
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If you start depending on the lbs for everything it is going to cost you a lot. Just have some replacement cables around becuase you might find they are frayed and its hard to get through the housing. It might not be a bad time to lubricate the housing also, this is easy. Just use tri flow or something in a psray and give it a squirt. The installation is very straight forward, its just the fine tuning which can be a pain but you learn to understand and its not that hard. Have a good understanding of limit screws.
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It's not too bad. If you run into problems, just google it or search through this forum.
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Originally Posted by phantomcow2
If you start depending on the lbs for everything it is going to cost you a lot.
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One nice thing about most bike components is that they come with a decent set of instructions. If you follow them closely, and if you use the correct tools (like cable cutters), installing shifters and derailleurs is very straightforward. The only time I have ever had them not work perfectly off the stand was when I got bold and didn't pay attention to the sequence. It's easy, no one's going to die, go for it.
and if the Shimano instructions are not to your liking, go here:
https://www.parktool.com/repair_help/FAQindex.shtml
and if the Shimano instructions are not to your liking, go here:
https://www.parktool.com/repair_help/FAQindex.shtml
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Originally Posted by moxfyre
Amen to that. I got into bike repair because it was my only form of transportation for a while and I realized it would just cost me too much to keep paying the shop. Then I found out that it was really, really fun!
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Thanks for all the advice. I'm going for it...
Just one other related question. Can I reuse the existing cables when I mount the Ultegra shifters (I currectly have Tiagra shifters) or should I use new cable? The existing cable is probably about 6 months old.
Just one other related question. Can I reuse the existing cables when I mount the Ultegra shifters (I currectly have Tiagra shifters) or should I use new cable? The existing cable is probably about 6 months old.
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Six month old cable should be fine.
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Originally Posted by sdouglaslt
Thanks for all the advice. I'm going for it...
Just one other related question. Can I reuse the existing cables when I mount the Ultegra shifters (I currectly have Tiagra shifters) or should I use new cable? The existing cable is probably about 6 months old.
Just one other related question. Can I reuse the existing cables when I mount the Ultegra shifters (I currectly have Tiagra shifters) or should I use new cable? The existing cable is probably about 6 months old.
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Yea like sydney said you might as well get a new one, its a pain to reuse them if they are frayed at the ends. THey are cheap enough that you may as well replace.
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I did it! Thanks to all who encouraged me to do it myself. After purcasing a Minoura stand and a $40 tool kit from Performance, here's what my OCR2 now sports:
New Ultegra F/R derailleurs
New SRAM PC-99 chain
New Ultegra shifters
New cables
New Michelin Carbon tires (on the way)
total cost: about $425
learning experience and satisfaction of knowing I'll never need to leave my bike in the hands of a stranger again: PRICELESS.
Rides like a dream and I even recovered $120 by selling the old parts on eBay, so total cost was acually closer to $300.
New Ultegra F/R derailleurs
New SRAM PC-99 chain
New Ultegra shifters
New cables
New Michelin Carbon tires (on the way)
total cost: about $425
learning experience and satisfaction of knowing I'll never need to leave my bike in the hands of a stranger again: PRICELESS.
Rides like a dream and I even recovered $120 by selling the old parts on eBay, so total cost was acually closer to $300.
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Now you just need to cross out the "2" and put a "1"
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Originally Posted by Rev.Chuck
Now you just need to cross out the "2" and put a "1"