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Old 09-14-12, 09:32 AM   #1
scooterfrog
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bought a bike it needs help 95 arette gt tons of ?? pleas help me plan my build

ok I bought a bike on ebay and i spent too much on it, but I wanted a steel frame flat bar bike that had 700c wheels.
I am considering this a purchase of a frame and wheels and some other stuff that might get reused. no comments about polishing a turd please. this also education.
key detail.... I LOVE THE COLOR and the paint looks good from the photos

intended usage is 90% road / fitness 10 paths / ride with kids
for all questions assume my time is worth $20 because I will learn an ton.
it's a gt arette 95. thats the only year they had green

i have another bike I am willing to cannibalize because I hate it. I will also ask anyone for any free parts they will give.
i plan to find a coop in Boston that (recommendations) but I am handy and don't mind buying hand tools (whip, freehub tool, bb racket tool)
i referenced bikepedia i think its a 95 because the rim picture matches the rims on bikepedia.

my plan is the following:
to get it
strip down
true wheels inspect and repack hubs, headset, add tires seat post seat cables and brake shoes.
take as much apart as I can and polish what ever can be polished and lubed reuse what I can.


so here are my questions

Component Group Shimano Altus C90
Brakeset Shimano Altus C90 brakes, Shimano Altus C90 levers
Shift Levers Shimano Altus C90 Rapid Fire TX
Front Derailleur Shimano Altus C90, bottom-pull
Rear Derailleur Shimano Altus C90
front Shimano Altus C90, 24/32/38 teeth
rear 7-speed, 11 - 28 teeth

altus is basically crap, but do all shimano drive train components work with all others. I am going on an ebay shopping spree.
knowing that the rdr must meet the total teeth gap (or whatever you call it) and the size of the rear cogs can i swap whatever I can find on the rear 5,6,7,8 speed.

example sora long cage for triple instead of c90. what about deore for rear. will I have shifting problems with rapid fire, do all shimano have the same actuation ratio. i have microshift grip shiftss on the other bike it has shimano I may just use them.

in the front assuming it matches the bottom bracket. can I swap between road double or triple with the only concerns being the front derailleur cage. if its right for a 38, how large a ring can I go to before I have to change it. or is this just a wait and see. I think altus is riveted at least it looks so in the pictures so swapping rings probably wont happen.

rear freehub? no good picture of the hub to see a bulge. 11-28 seems good range if it can be reused but its really really rusty. is ti worth removing and the rings and sanding , polishing them, or should I just ride it or chuck it

cantilever breaks (just kidding) i have some linear pulls can I swap them only worrying ill need to swap the levers too right are the fork bosses the same? what about a road caliper which levers can i use i think th eones ith the canitleves. it look like the hole in the fork might be too far to reach the rim.

bottom bracket on the 97 (this is a 95 i think) is 68mm English so I assume this is as well lots of options here.

head set is 1 in threaded. in the long run can I find 1 in threadless forks and head set, stem will that combo be lighter? or should I look for a shorter quill and a cantilever stop if I stick withe cantis that i can put on the current headset the current one goes though the stem (and looks really weird)

tires it came with 41 a long time ago. i found specs saying the rim could take down to a 23 (i wont do that)
i am think 28, 30, 32 are there cheap roadish cyclocross tires in size 30

can anyone confirm headset, seat post bottom bracket size (95 and 8=97 are incistant sizes on bike pedia ) bottom bracket size


Last edited by scooterfrog; 09-14-12 at 09:40 AM.
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Old 09-14-12, 11:26 AM   #2
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Apart from lack of bling value, there's really nothing wrong with Altus. Cleaned and lubed, expect the rider to be the limiting factor - not the kit.

Linear AKA v-brakes use the same bosses, so no worries there. But they do use different levers. Some levers are adjustable.

Replacing the fork just to go threadless is a lot of effort for actually quite little payout. There are still plenty of quill stems available. Or you can get a threadless adapter to get access to threadless stems.
A threadless adapter would also give you easy opportunity to mount a hanger for the brake cable and ditch that through-stem arrangement.

I wouldn't go for caliper brakes. It won't turn the bike into a road bike anyhow, and they're a tad weaker than cantis and Vs.

In general, don't expect to be able to swap doubles and triples just like that. BB length has to cooperate with crankset type to give the right chain line. You may run out of derailer throw or clearance issues.
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Old 09-14-12, 11:51 AM   #3
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Apart from lack of bling value, there's really nothing wrong with Altus. Cleaned and lubed, expect the rider to be the limiting factor - not the kit.
I just don't expect the rdr to be repairable. so I am assuming it will be replaced. to many moving parts that are small.

Quote:
Linear AKA v-brakes use the same bosses, so no worries there. But they do use different levers. Some levers are adjustable.
good so I use whats there or swap from the other bike. with the levers of course

Quote:
Replacing the fork just to go threadless is a lot of effort for actually quite little payout. There are still plenty of quill stems available. Or you can get a threadless adapter to get access to threadless stems.
A threadless adapter would also give you easy opportunity to mount a hanger for the brake cable and ditch that through-stem arrangement.
I knew about the adapter but I also see fork hole hangers for cheap. cheaper than and adapter and a stem, way cheaper than an fork, headset and stem, but is threadless better and or lighter i know if I get a carbon fork it will be bu tits probably not worth the effort / cost


Quote:
In general, don't expect to be able to swap doubles and triples just like that. BB length has to cooperate with crankset type to give the right chain line. You may run out of derailer throw or clearance issues.
[/QUOTE]

it has a triple now so I suppose i will stay with a triple. ( lots of cheap doubles on ebay darn)you're right I need to watch the chainstay clearance (doh)
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Old 09-14-12, 02:12 PM   #4
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I just don't expect the rdr to be repairable. so I am assuming it will be replaced. to many moving parts that are small.
So, what's wrong with it? Unless really badly seized, deformed through impact, or worn to excessive slop in the joints, a good clean & lube will probably work wonders. Pulley wheels are readily available.
Well, ok, sometimes the springs give up the ghost.

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Originally Posted by scooterfrog View Post
I knew about the adapter but I also see fork hole hangers
Fork hole hangers? Sounds like that hook thingy bikes sometimes came equipped with to prevent the straddle cable from jamming up the tire in case of the main brake calbe snapped. I'm thinking about the ones that'll fit like a washer underneath the headset locknut.

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Originally Posted by scooterfrog View Post
... is threadless better and or lighter
If you're starting from scratch, then threadless is a little lighter and a little stiffer. But the difference is so small that it's rarely worth the effort (in real terms) to do the conversion on an older bike - particularly if you have to buy all the parts at full price for this specific purpose.
Now, fitting an adapter to be able to use threadless stems with removeable faceplates, particularly on a drop bar bike, that's a good reason.

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Originally Posted by scooterfrog View Post
i know if I get a carbon fork it will be
Upgradeitis can be real costly, better stop now.

Clean & lube, get a shorter stem if you need it.
Maybe, maybe a Deore rd, although there's nothing functionally wrong with a Tourney. Get a jar, label it "new bike". and whenever you feel the replacement itch, start putting money in the jar until the itch goes away.

Oh, and surface rust on a freewheel/cassette is a non-issue. It's aestethics only, won't affect functionality in the slightest. As long as it's spinning and engaging as it should, leave well enough alone. Buff/brush off what you can, a shine of oil and you're good to go.

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it has a triple now so I suppose i will stay with a triple.
Again, picking the right stuff when starting from scratch is a worthwhile effort. But there's nothing you can do with a double that you can't do with a triple, so the payoff from investing in that change is really quite marginal. Basically you'd be doing it for fun, not for results. But if you're OK with that-go for it.
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Old 09-14-12, 02:49 PM   #5
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thanks. i odnt have it yet. which is whay I am "Planning" the build right now. even if i swap over all the old and medicroe compoonents that I hav eonmy heavy dueal suspension mtb bike that works (non leveled shimano etc). i will be ahead of the game. I am treating this like a frame and wheel purchase. al the farm has to do is be fully rigid and its better than it is now. the wheels are 700c so its a astart int eh right direction. no tfutzng to put big wheels on a mtb.

so i did my 100 miles pennance on "craptastic" and I told my wife I wanted a new bike. she told me don't spend more than $1k I am goign to see how well I can do with .2K that wil leave me witt a bike I can ride with the kids, learn something and get me fitenogh so that I can buy a real road bike sometime next summer.

so I just bought the following from amazon 3 tubes in 700c size 2 700c x32 tires,bell cable set. an inexpensive seat and a seatpost (27.2) and a it is one of the sizes listed on bike pedia. the seat is the only thing i have on craptastic that i am buying that could be scavenged right now. it will end up on one or other bike

Quote:
Fork hole hangers? Sounds like that hook thingy bikes sometimes came equipped with to prevent the straddle cable from jamming up the tire in case of the main brake calbe snapped. I'm thinking about the ones that'll fit like a washer underneath the headset locknut.
I know what you meant this maybe
.
I mean this

but I suppose this will will work with a threaded headset


upgradeitus. I would only upgrade this past necessities if i feel i don't want an much better bike. OR if it was something i knew I could move to another bike and I could rationalize. (a one inch fork thread less / headset/ stem isn't it because most newer bike would be 1 an an eighth)

and with respect rust. if I can get to it its worth cleaning up, bu tits not worth pulling apart the cassette to get the rust out from between the gears, i'snt worth it.

thanks for the support. more specific questions later.
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Old 09-14-12, 03:42 PM   #6
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Have at it! It's good to hear from a poster who has no illusions that his "bargain" or "free" bike can be upgraded at nearly no cost. Reality is nice for a change.

Altus isn't top shelf stuff but It's functional and I would only replace what is truly worn out or broken. If you ride the bike enough, you will get plenty of chances to replace it with "better" components as you do wear stuff out.

I'm trying not to sound patronizing but "spell check" is your (and our) friend.
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Old 09-14-12, 05:56 PM   #7
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Really all that bike needs is some chain lube and tires.Those bikes where built to be reliable and they are.Realistically you can not improve that bike except in fit
and consumables such as brake pads, tires and cables.
Ride it till you get bored or so fit you need a faster one.
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Old 09-14-12, 06:02 PM   #8
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I would not have very high hopes for a bike that is showing that much rust on that many parts. I'm surprised the seller took that many closeup pics of a bike in that condition. It may not have been ridden enough to get scratched up but it sat out more than enough to require quite a bit of work and parts. You'll likely have lots of practice. Good Luck!

p.s. Even though I can't see many of the teeth on the smallest cog what I can see there and on the chainwheels leads me to believe that the rider spent a lot of time in the small-small combo, which would mean early chain and cog wear.
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There's no such thing as a routine repair.

Don't tell me what "should" be - either it is, it isn't, or do something about it.

If you think I'm being blunt take it as a compliment - if I thought you were too weak to handle the truth or a strong opinion I would not bother.

Please take the time to post clearly so we can answer quickly. All lowercase and multiple typos makes for a hard read. Thanks!

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Old 09-16-12, 07:23 AM   #9
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I would not have very high hopes for a bike that is showing that much rust on that many parts. I'm surprised the seller took that many closeup pics of a bike in that condition. It may not have been ridden enough to get scratched up but it sat out more than enough to require quite a bit of work and parts. You'll likely have lots of practice. Good Luck!

p.s. Even though I can't see many of the teeth on the smallest cog what I can see there and on the chainwheels leads me to believe that the rider spent a lot of time in the small-small combo, which would mean early chain and cog wear.
I am kind of expecting to have to replace the whole drive train but I won't know till I see it. The front chain rings are probably riveted and I think the large is a 42 according to bikepedia so I would need a new crank set. 42 seems really small anyways. the rear is really rusty, a chain is cheap to replace (7speed) and I have my doubts about the rdr. I think that just leaves shifters and the front dr (which is cheaper than a chain)

changing to 8 speed is at this point would be cheap too. just a new cassette which I probably need and new shifters. I assume 9 speed and above is where it gets expensive

my expectation is that I have a decent flatbar geometry (partialy?) chromemoly frame that takes 700c wheels and wheels. anything else that i can salvage even for a while is great.
the only thing that will make me disappointed would be needing to replace the hubs as opposed to just servicing them, and actual frame damage.

so far the only money i have in it the bike itself and the absolute necessities to get this bike rolling all if which can go in the garage if I have to sell / trash the bike.

if the whole thing works after replacing consumables (cables and housings too) awesome ...if not its off to ebay.

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Old 09-17-12, 11:31 AM   #10
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I am kind of expecting to have to replace the whole drive train but I won't know till I see it. The front chain rings are probably riveted and I think the large is a 42 according to bikepedia so I would need a new crank set. 42 seems really small anyways. .
Not really.

I run a 42 big on my commuter(on 26" wheels), a smallest sprocket of 14 or something like that. It'll happily get me up to about 25 MPH, which is about all I want for an urban commute.
I might be spinning out for one minute out of each hour's riding, which outside a race setting isn't much to worry about.
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Old 09-17-12, 01:13 PM   #11
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I am kind of expecting to have to replace the whole drive train but I won't know till I see it. The front chain rings are probably riveted and I think the large is a 42 according to bikepedia so I would need a new crank set. 42 seems really small anyways.......

changing to 8 speed is at this point would be cheap too. just a new cassette which I probably need and new shifters. I assume 9 speed and above is where it gets expensive

......
Since the bike has an 11T small cog, a 42T big ring isn't small.
Also, you would have to make sure you had adequate chain stay clearance for a larger ring.

Going to 8/9 speed would require a longer Free Hub Body. That and shifters are the major expense.

IF you go to a longer FH body, you may as well go to 9 speed. Cassettes & shifters aren't that much more IF you do a little shopping around (prices change daily on shifters it seems, so check over multiple days). Chain will be about $12ish more depending on what you get.
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Old 09-17-12, 01:53 PM   #12
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I would make friends with your local bike coop if you have one. YOu can probably find quite a bit of somewhat nicer stuff to upgrade your bike with on the cheap. Not fancy carbon forks or those kind of parts but stuff like maybe a Deore class crankset, derailleurs, shifters, etc. Stuff that you really wouldn't want to buy new to throw at an older frame. Nothing wrong with the frame that you have but buying fancy new parts like carbon fork and stuff just doesn't make sense. Its like having a rusty 1989 Toyota Corolla and throwing 3k at it with a new stereo system. Just not worth it at all.

But if you can get some nice Deore/Exage style stuff for cheap at your coop, why not go for it? Just stay away from bling bling stuff like threadless fork conversions unless you jsut want to use one of those adapters.
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Old 09-17-12, 02:33 PM   #13
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Going to 8/9 speed would require a longer Free Hub Body. That and shifters are the major expense.
yeah i realized that I would need a longer free hub. in that case its not cheap and not worth it.



Quote:
I would make friends with your local bike coop if you have one.
there must be one in Cambridge that's cheap. but the one i know about charges $24 an hour for tools and $48 for instruction. can anybody recommended one NOT affiliated with a school in town (Boston Cambridge somerville) what I really want is a parts bin


as far as upgrades. I think I will keep it simple. but with careful ebay or Craiglist (or coop if I can find one) I think I can make it something really nice.
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Old 06-21-13, 05:33 AM   #14
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Nice post.

I'm building a 1995 GT Arette, and it's a green one as well.
I'm starting from scratch and the only original part is the frame. The rest I've already bought, except for a few things I still need some specs before going to a lbs.

Questions are:

Seat post: I saw a post were you say you had bought a 27.2 seat post for this Arette. Can you confirm if it fits this bike, please?

Front derailleur: I'm not sure about what FD to buy. I'll use a triple crankset. What's the seat tube diameter I should consider in order to chose it?

Would you mind posting a pic of your bike? I'd glad to see the final result of your project Scooterfrog =)

Regards,
Ricardo
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Old 06-21-13, 05:49 AM   #15
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Just do it!

It sounds to me like you have pretty realistic objectives. The learning process alone is worth something.

1. The bottom bracket has to match your crankset. If you change cranksets, there is a greater than 50% chance you'll need a new bottom bracket.
2. I'd plan on upgrading the brakes to linear pull from the get go. The Shimano cantys from that era were crap. You will need different levers.
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Old 06-22-13, 07:12 AM   #16
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Nice post.

I'm building a 1995 GT Arette, and it's a green one as well.
I'm starting from scratch and the only original part is the frame. The rest I've already bought, except for a few things I still need some specs before going to a lbs.

Questions are:

Seat post: I saw a post were you say you had bought a 27.2 seat post for this Arette. Can you confirm if it fits this bike, please?

Front derailleur: I'm not sure about what FD to buy. I'll use a triple crankset. What's the seat tube diameter I should consider in order to chose it?

Would you mind posting a pic of your bike? I'd glad to see the final result of your project Scooterfrog =)

Regards,
Ricardo
I'd be very surprised if the seatpost was that size. We have 5 different GT's in our stable, spanning from '88 to '01, steel and aluminum, and I'm pretty sure they all have 26.6mm seat posts. I'll admit I'd never heard of the above model GT before this thread, but I'd be willing to bet seatposts for these are 26.6

As far as the front derailleur size goes, you might want to caliper that as well, GT did some interesting things with their tubes back in the day and they aren't all round or sizes you'd expect, although there is a nice close up pick there and the tube looks round. For what it's worth, for my '88 (Timberline) and '93 (Outpost), and my girlfriends '96 (Pantera) I've used derailleurs with 28.6 listed as their clamp size (M730 and M735 and one other I don't recall the model of).

The Recyclery (formerly Mountain Slayer Bikes) usually has front derailleurs (and some other parts) for reasonable prices if your town doesn't have a co-op or other bike recycling business.

BB should be 68 English too.

Last edited by Medic Zero; 06-22-13 at 07:24 AM.
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