Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 355 Post(s)
They're designed to be threaded in from the inside of the dropout slot, and out the back. Then you add the knurled nut as a finger adjustment aid.
The spring stays on the screw when you thread it, so it ends up on the part in the slot.
BTW- the best way to get the knurled nut tight enough is to put a wheel in, so the screw can't move and force the nut a bit.
Here's a trick from back when these were in common use. Once you have the wheel set where you like it, either cut the remaining screw off flush, or at least shorten it so the nut only has a bit of room between it and the dropout. This lessens the chances of the screw getting bent accidentally. Trying to remove a bent screw,(even slightly bent) is the number one way folks break the screws off in side, and/or strip the dropout.
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions”
- Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance