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Old 09-16-12, 12:50 PM   #1
chefisaac
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Rough Time Patching Tubes

Lately, I have had bad luck patching tubes. The tubes from my mountain bike are easier because there is more surface area but with my road tires which are thinner it seems like I cant get a good patch on there. Any tips or suggestions (other then buying a new tube). I like to be able to patch at least once.

Thanks.
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Old 09-16-12, 12:53 PM   #2
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I use the smallest patch available so it doesn't have to curve as much. Recently I put the tube in the vise LIGHTLY to keep the patch flat against the tube while it cured. Also, I sometimes leave the thin plastic on because it seems that trying to peel it off sometimes pulls the patch with it.
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Old 09-16-12, 01:04 PM   #3
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Do you ever cut the patch to make it smaller before patching? The patches that come with the Parks patch kit are usually too big.
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Old 09-16-12, 01:09 PM   #4
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These work best for road tires.

I use them...

16mm

http://www.outsideoutfitters.com/p-1...FYxU7AodpG1DmQ
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Last edited by 10 Wheels; 09-16-12 at 01:25 PM.
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Old 09-16-12, 01:17 PM   #5
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These work best for road tires.

16mm

http://www.outsideoutfitters.com/p-1...FYxU7AodpG1DmQ
Thank you kind sir.
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Old 09-16-12, 01:23 PM   #6
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Thank you kind sir.
I have ordered some of these. But not received them yet.

http://www.focalprice.com/HLC64B/48p...tch_Black.html
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Old 09-16-12, 01:31 PM   #7
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I have ordered some of these. But not received them yet.

http://www.focalprice.com/HLC64B/48p...tch_Black.html
when did you order them? Whats different about them then others?
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Old 09-16-12, 01:40 PM   #8
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when did you order them? Whats different about them then others?
Ordered 8/20 free shipping, curious as to what size they really are? good price. Also ordered 2 small flashlights.

Rema is the best.
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Old 09-16-12, 02:44 PM   #9
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Your local bike shop can order REMA patches and glue from QBP, too.
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Old 09-16-12, 04:29 PM   #10
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You can get a can of vulcanixing cement from the auto supply store. Six to eight bucks for a pint.
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Old 09-16-12, 06:24 PM   #11
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Make sure that you remove all of the original surface of the tube where the patch will go; it contains a mold release compound which will interfere with the chemical reaction which fuses the rubber layers together. Don't just scuff the surface, expose all new rubber beyond where the edges of the patch will go. Keep your fingers off of this newly-exposed surface.

Coat the entire prepared surface evenly and fully with vulcanizing compound. Allow it time to dry completely without blowing on it. Make sure that the vulcanizing compound (NOT ordinary rubber cement) has time to thoroughly dry before pressing the patch into place. Don't rush this step.

After pressing the patch evenly and firmly onto the tube, "stitch" it down hard to make a firm bond, especially at the edges. Use something hard and smooth like the edge of a coin or the end of a tire lever and work it all along the surface of the patch pressing every bit of the surface against the tube. Any places you miss are potential leaks. After you think you are done go over the edges again.
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Old 09-16-12, 07:23 PM   #12
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If you are patching at home, use mineral spirits, brake or carb cleaner to clean the tube surface. It works much better than sandpaper. Let the fluid dry completely. Then, I use a wallpaper seam roller and some muscle to roll the patch on thoroughly. Get a fresh tube of vulcanizing fluid from your LBS once in a while. bk
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Old 09-16-12, 07:25 PM   #13
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You could throw away your sandpaper and scratchers and just wipe the tube with buffing compound, but that seems to be way too easy, so keep on doing it like your grandfather did, and keep whining about how your patches don't stick. Rant off.
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