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Old 09-26-12, 06:13 AM   #1
TurbineBlade
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1996 Gary Fisher Wahoo question

Hi - I have the bike listed above with the following specs:

Component Group Shimano Altus C90
Brakeset Shimano Altus brakes, alloy levers
Shift Levers Grip Shift MRX-100
Front Derailleur Shimano Altus top-swing, top-pull/clamp-on 28.6 mm
Rear Derailleur Shimano AceraX
Crankset Shimano Altus, 24/32/38 teeth
Pedals Resin
Bottom Bracket Shimano BB-CT91, 120 mm spindle
BB Shell Width 73mm English
Rear Cogs 7-speed, 11 - 28 teeth
Chain KMC UG-50, 1/2 x 3/32"
Seatpost Alloy micro-adjust, 26.6 mm diameter
Saddle Fisher Supersoft
Handlebar Steel
Handlebar Extensions Not included
Handlebar Stem Steel
Headset 1 1/8" steel

I've never removed a crankset with one of those clamped-on front derailleur tabs before.

Is it possible to remove the cranks, remove the clamp, and then still use the 120mm bottom bracket for a different crankset? I'd like to actually install a double crank on this bike because the stock gearing is WAY too low for road use. I realize I may have to play with the chainline a bit....no biggie.

Thanks!
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Old 09-26-12, 06:52 AM   #2
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Clamp-on front derailleurs are very easy to remove. Loosen the cable fixing bolt and then remove the clamp bolt and it comes right off the seat tube. Removing the crank will require a 14 mm socket to remove the fixing bolts (or nuts) and a crank puller to remove the crank arms.

However, whether a different crank will work with the current bottom bracket depends on which one you choose and the only way to "play with the chainline" is to use the correct length bottom bracket spindle.
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Old 09-26-12, 07:16 AM   #3
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Sure thing - I have a crank puller for a square taper crankset and of course a socket set.

But! I think this front derailleur is fixed to the bottom bracket -- it's one of those kinds I believe. Are these removable?

As far as the chainline, maybe I should specify that I'm installing a double crankset with just a single chainring and probably no front derailleur.....so I would theoretically have the option to install the ring on the inside or outside, and also with spacers if needed. I'm thinking the 120 with the ring on the inside would give a decent chainline, but I may need to play around with it some. As a last resort I could try to pick up a 73 X 118 or something and try the same thing.

Sorry - I didn't make that clear in my OP.

Thanks!

Last edited by TurbineBlade; 09-26-12 at 07:21 AM.
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Old 09-26-12, 08:56 PM   #4
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if the derailleur is attached to the bb (by way of a black steel plate looking thing) then yes it is removable. It is simply tightened on behind the fixed cup (drive side bearing cup). Once you remove the cup it will be removed! Your specs above list it as a clamp on front derailleur so a little confused on the question.
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Old 04-15-16, 02:44 PM   #5
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TurbineBlade,

I just bought a 1996 Wahoo and am having trouble with removing the bottom bracket on the drive side due to the metal thing from the front derailleur. Did you just use a bottom bracket removal tool and turn counter-clockwise after removing the crankset?

Thank you!
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Old 04-15-16, 03:09 PM   #6
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Everything on a bicycle works together. You can almost never replace just one part without having to change something else to make it work.

1. By modern standards 120 mm is a pretty wide bottom bracket spindle. If you want to replace the crankset you'll probably need a different bottom bracket too. (The crankset is a key factor in determining what bottom bracket spindle size you need.)
2. How much clearance do you have between your big chainring and the front derailleur cage? When you install your new crankset with the bigger chainring, you'll probably have to move your front derailleur upward. That might not be possible with the one that you have. Check out the seat tube where a clamp-on derailleur would mount. What you need to look for are water bottle mounting points and flared tubes near the bottom bracket. If you see either of the above, you might find it difficult to install a different front derailleur.

38 chainring teeth divided by 11 rear cog teeth times 26 inche wheel diameter equals about 90 gear inches. Not a really high gear but, honestly, not all that bad either. I'd think it would be adequate for most riding. New crankset, new bottom bracket, front derailleur and chain is going to run in the $100 to $150 range if you can do the all of the work yourself. You might be better off looking around for a lightly used bike with equipment that suits you better.
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Old 04-15-16, 04:36 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jckattack View Post
TurbineBlade,

I just bought a 1996 Wahoo and am having trouble with removing the bottom bracket on the drive side due to the metal thing from the front derailleur. Did you just use a bottom bracket removal tool and turn counter-clockwise after removing the crankset?

Thank you!
To remove the drive-side bottom bracket cup you turn it clockwise since it is left-hand threaded.
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Old 04-16-16, 06:28 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jckattack View Post
TurbineBlade,

I just bought a 1996 Wahoo and am having trouble with removing the bottom bracket on the drive side due to the metal thing from the front derailleur. Did you just use a bottom bracket removal tool and turn counter-clockwise after removing the crankset?

Thank you!
Revival of a 4 year old thread. The drive side bottom bracket cup is left hand threaded. Turning it counter clockwise will tighten it
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