Here's a cable-tension adjustment procedure I've found that works well on the bike-stand:
1. Loosen outer limit screw until it almost falls out
2. Shift up into big-ring while spinning crank by pulling on lever or by manually pushing the FD out with your hand.
3. When the chain is fully engaged on big-ring, stop pedaling and let go of everything. If you've done the #1 most important step from the Park Tool guide properly, the chain & chainring will hold the FD in an outward position.
4. Push lever all the way to the smallest-ring/least-tension position. There should be plenty of slack now since the FD is held in an outward position by the chain & chainring.
5. loosen cable pinch-bolt and pull through 1-2mm of cable so. Tighten pinch-bolt
6. Pull lever back out and spin the crank to settle things. Test shifting up & down. Repeat back at #2 as necessary to pull through or release cable as necessary to shift up & down between chainrings.
7. tighten outer limit-screw just enough so you don't shift the chain off the outside.
I find that zero slack or slight cable-tension with the shift-lever in the inner-most position with the inner limit-screw removed works well. The shift-lever position and cable-tension determines the inner-most position of the FD and since the cable has zero slack, as soon as you move the lever, the FD moves as well for maximum sweep-distance for the lever-travel.