You do the type of riding I did when I left for university. Up until 6-months before that, I had only ridden BMX bikes and abused them extensively; breaking frames, wheels and cranks were normal events. I got the road-racing bug and had starting seriously training for juniors events. Alas, too little too late and I had to go off to university.
So I got MTB for riding around campus. I didn't realize how much more fragile they were than BMX bikes. I broke 2 sets of wheels within a month. A third custom-built set cost me 3x as much as the bike and was guaranteed by the shop to survive WWIII. Well, they did last twice as long as the previous sets for a whole 4 weeks. That's when I got a job at a bike-shop to pay for school and to get good deal on parts. Little did I know I would be working there for the next 10-years. I finally built a set of wheels that lasted for years.
Now fast forward a couple of decades. For the past 5-years I've been building up wheels for some tandem couples my wife and I ride with. It was like history repeating itself all over again. They went through multiple iterations of stock wheels, off-the-shelf aftermarket wheels, multiple custom-built sets. The best designs eventually evolved to be very similar to BMX wheels:
1. first hubs. They don't make as big a difference in wheel-performance or strength as many people think. They are a low-rpm device, so ball-bearings or cartridge grade-000 bearings won't make much of a difference. Flange-design, hole-drilling and chamfering is more important.
2. spokes makes a bigger difference. Using butted spokes actually makes for a more durable wheel. What happens is they stretch more for a given tension than straight-gauge spokes. When the wheel hits a big bump, it compresses the rim inwards and this loosens the spokes. A straight-gauge spoke will lose ALL tension sooner than a double-gauge spoke for the same rim-deflection. When the spoke looses all tension, this allows the nipple to rattle and work themselves loose. Since a bump impact is a short event, only a couple of spokes loose tension and only a nipple or two will rattle loose a tiny bit. Over time, this random uneven loosening causes the wheel to go out of true. Butted spokes don't lose as much tension and keeps the nipples in place for more durability over the same bumpy roads.
3. the RIM makes the biggest difference in wheel durability. The best ones I've found for hardcore MTB riding, like bombing down several flights of stairs, tabletops and 8-9 ft drop-offs, have been wide box-section rims. They are more vertically compliant than V-section aero rims for better shock-absorption. You also want as much material in the lateral direction as possible for ridigity and box-section rims gives you TWO wide layers in the lateral direction. The best rim that I've found that holds up better than the Dyads and A719s has been the Sun Rhyno Lite. It'll easily outlast them by 2x under the same abuse. I went cross-country on them decades ago and they are the only ones on my tandem that has lasted. They're also the widest available to take the 35-38mm tyres which your 610 can handle. You'll want the fattest tyres possible to run the lowest pressures possible for impact absorption (lowest peak G-forces).
So I recommend:
hub: 40h anything that'll let you use the following spokes, on tandems I use 48h like BMX bikes
spokes: DT Alpine-III triple-butted spokes, 2.3mm at the head, 1.8mm in the middle and 2.0mm at the rim. The rolled threads on the end of a straight or double-butted spoke is actually wider than the head-end of the spoke. This means the bent head of the spoke doesn't fit as tightly into the hub-flange hole as possible and fatigues earlier than necessary. Having a fat diameter at the head to snuggly fit into the flange hole gives the strongest fatigue resistance (most common source of spoke failures).
rim: Sun Rhyno Lite, nicely designed and manufactured rim with eyelets
Also be sure to use a tensionometer to bring the spokes to the upper-end of the tension-range recommended by the rim-manufacturer. Low-tension makes for a less-durable wheel that goes out of true easier and the spokes will fatigue and snap faster as well. Most wheels coming out of a bike-box are at only 50% of optimum tension. Even mail-ordered custom wheels are seldom at 75% or more.