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Old 10-22-12, 11:54 AM   #1
jawnn
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Dry Lube?

After many years of trying all kinds of overpriced bicycle lubes, I tried Tri-flow because that’s all the bike shops sell now. If it has Teflon why can’t I see it on white paper?

When it dried it was a sticky mess so I cleaned my chain and dried it on my heat stove. I found some “dry lube” with graphite at the car parts store. A bit too messy and if it is layed on too think it will rub off on to fingers.

Heating the chain is a good idea, now I can use wax lubes again. So I applied the last bit of my Boseshield T9 over the graphite. I think the graphite is better for my expensive lock.
I wish I could find some lube that will last all winter, and dry in the cold.
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Old 10-22-12, 05:03 PM   #2
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Wish for a pot-o-gold at the end of the rainbow, you'll have better luck.
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Old 10-22-12, 05:12 PM   #3
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You could try Corrosion-X or ACF-50. They're designed to penetrate and leave behind a thin protective film.
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Old 10-22-12, 05:37 PM   #4
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I don't know what the fascination is with Tri-flow. I always found it to be messy and very incompatible with rain - it does stay on, but tends to encapsulate water somehow and cause squeaking. I saw a lot of that on one rainy TOSRV (5,000 riders gives a great sampling) We used Finish Line Dry lube to fix the squeaky Tri-Flow chains. I've seen some reviews that called Finish Line Dry messy but I can't imagine that unless one does not wipe the chain after lubrication.

p.s. This post is not an invitation to debate Finish Line vs. others, just my perspective. I am posting in advance that I will make no effort to justify, document, or defend my opinion/experience.
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Old 10-22-12, 06:03 PM   #5
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cny-bikeman- Good qualifier statement... After almost 40 years doing the retail wrench thing I have heard just about anything about just about all the lubes out there. It seems that for some one who holds chicken snot as the best chain lube there's some one that thinks it rots and, instead, yak butter cut with bat guano is the tits. You get my idea.

Every lube and process has it's good and bad points. Every lube has conditions it's best and worst in. But no lube is the Holy Grail for all.

I don't like wax or dry lubes but do sell them as needed. I think that if it's another lube that gets the rider to do more maintainance/cleaning then they should get that lube. Like I've said many times, it's like talking about which soap you use. That you use soap on a daily basis is what counts. So that you clean and lube the chain as needed (and this is not once every 4 months if you ride weekly) is what counts, not the lube's brand or make up. Andy.
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Old 10-22-12, 07:06 PM   #6
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Totally agree - if you use what you use the way it's meant to be used it does not make enought difference to spend hours worrying about it instead of riding. Although I've used dry lube in the past I will probably go with Chain-L next time I start fresh.
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Old 10-22-12, 10:05 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by davidad View Post
Wish for a pot-o-gold at the end of the rainbow, you'll have better luck.
+1, the OP wants too much. There are various properties in every chain lube, some good some not so good. Unfortunately what makes for good lubrication, can also tend to be a bit messy (though that can be managed). Your goal shouldn't be to find a perfect, long lasting, clean excellent lubricant. It should be to find the one with the best balance for your climate, type of riding, and personal preference. There are many different options, and though I obviously have a strong preference, you need to fine what works for you.
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Old 10-22-12, 10:53 PM   #8
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I don't like wax because it shortens chain life expectancy. Maybe you should try Chain-L lube, it works great in the rain, makes the driveline run quieter which means less metal to metal contact which means the gears and chain should last longer, it can stay on the chain for around 500 miles instead of just 70 for wax or 150 to 200 for teflon based lubes.
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Old 10-23-12, 10:22 AM   #9
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Yep. IMO a chain lube should be a viscous liquid. Liquid so that it can flow back into joints from which it tends to get squeezed out and viscous so it stays on the chain and is not easily washed off.

I have not used Chain-L but have admired it on the LBS shelf and may try it after my current stash of lubes run out.... That or homebrew a mix of gear oil and Motor Honey or STP oil treatment, thinned with some OMS for application; gear oil for that indefinably exquisite aroma of sulfur based EP modifier and Motor Honey for tenacity.
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Old 10-23-12, 04:48 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by rekmeyata View Post
Maybe you should try Chain-L lube, it works great in the rain, makes the driveline run quieter which means less metal to metal contact which means the gears and chain should last longer, it can stay on the chain for around 500 miles instead of just 70 for wax or 150 to 200 for teflon based lubes.
I couldn't agree more! As we enter into another 7+ months of wet weather in the Pacific Northwest, I just finished applyling Chain-L. With a little luck and a little diligence, it will get me into December before I need to re-apply.
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Old 10-23-12, 05:12 PM   #11
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I like chain-l too. was really surprised by how nice it made my old chain. and seemed to absorb better than the last stuff so chain isnt so dirty.

Francis you ever run any kind of analysis test on how your magic brew's performance compares to other products?
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Old 10-23-12, 05:53 PM   #12
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Francis you ever run any kind of analysis test on how your magic brew's performance compares to other products?
I have data from when I was checking out what else was out there, but it's quality isn't such that I could ever publish it, or use it in comparative advertizing. I prefer to sell Chain-L on what it does, rather than on what the competition doesn't.

Interestingly there's one product out there that claims to be the longest lasting chain lube, IMO it doesn't come close, but there's no percentage in calling them on it.
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Old 10-23-12, 08:41 PM   #13
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I have data from when I was checking out what else was out there, but it's quality isn't such that I could ever publish it, or use it in comparative advertizing. I prefer to sell Chain-L on what it does, rather than on what the competition doesn't.

Interestingly there's one product out there that claims to be the longest lasting chain lube, IMO it doesn't come close, but there's no percentage in calling them on it.
There's a lot of chain lubes that tried to call themselves the longest lasting, but then you go to use it and you discover their no better then the others. I find it interesting that Chain L is the only lube to get 5 star ratings on any review site you look at. I don't have enough miles on my one chain yet to say how well it will work at keeping a chain from wearing out, and it may take a few years before I find out, but so far I like it. Is it the best? Like I said, I don't know, and I won't know till one particular chain wears out.
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Old 10-25-12, 11:39 AM   #14
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Ok I will get some.

Chain-L is the opposite of the lubes that promise to be "Clean". It is the thickness and texture of honey and it smells like hell. And by that I mean it smells like hell in the brimstone sense. "

http://chain-l.com/
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Old 10-25-12, 12:16 PM   #15
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... And by that I mean it smells like hell in the brimstone sense. "
I believe that'd be the previously mentioned sulfur based EP (extreme pressure) modifier common to gear oils.
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Old 10-25-12, 12:21 PM   #16
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I've been using Chain'l for a year and a half or so, and have been pleased with it. Initially it is a bit messier than supposed "clean" lubes, but keep the chain wiped off and it isn't really messy at all. Agree on the smell Prior to that, I used SuperLube spray. I've never tried any of the dry or wax lubes.
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Old 10-29-12, 11:57 AM   #17
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Is this the same as demon tech?
And will I have to heat teh chai to get the goo to flow INTO the chain??
http://www.dumondetech.com/
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Old 10-29-12, 04:05 PM   #18
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After many years of trying all kinds of overpriced bicycle lubes, I tried Tri-flow because that’s all the bike shops sell now. If it has Teflon why can’t I see it on white paper?
The Teflon particles might be so small and so few that it isn't visible.

Teflon itself is a white powder, it would be difficult to see a bit on (white) paper anyway. You can get pure teflon powder from Spurlock tools if you want.
http://www.spurlocktools.com/id39.htm
It can be mixed with pretty much any other grease or oil you want, or just used dry. It has no smell, does not evaporate or run off, does not stain clothes or skin, does not degrade from moisture absorption, it does not lift decals or harm paint, does not dissolve plastics, it is so non-toxic you can literally eat the stuff and yet it has the lowest friction of any lube you can easily obtain. Do not put it into piston-engine or piston-pump oil, or anything that has a filter however. Due to its "unwettable" nature it causes cylinder scoring and will quickly clog filters completely.

Tri-Flow penetrates very well, but that has its downside too--it will evaporate and run off, it will stain fabrics and it will lift decals and paint.

Quote:
When it dried it was a sticky mess so I cleaned my chain and dried it on my heat stove. I found some “dry lube” with graphite at the car parts store. A bit too messy and if it is layed on too think it will rub off on to fingers.
Graphite is a good lube, but is corrosive to aluminum in the presence of water.
Graphite's main use is a high-temperature lubricant. It still works pretty well at 2500F for example, when nothing else does.

Quote:
Heating the chain is a good idea, now I can use wax lubes again. So I applied the last bit of my Boseshield T9 over the graphite. I think the graphite is better for my expensive lock.
I wish I could find some lube that will last all winter, and dry in the cold.
Many street motorcycle tests show the plain teflon/wax stuff to work the best. The DuPont all-purpose spray costs about $6 a can at Lowe's.

Also a few bicycle chain-lube tests have found that there's not a huge amount of difference between results of different lubes or even not using lube at all, other than chain noise.
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Old 10-29-12, 10:32 PM   #19
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Also a few bicycle chain-lube tests have found that there's not a huge amount of difference between results of different lubes or even not using lube at all, other than chain noise.
I disagree with this. I know from personal experience that my chain life reduced A LOT when I tried wax lubes, prior to using wax lube I used TriFlow and my old school chains lasted about 10,000 miles, I then switch to various wax based crud and my chains life reduced to about 5,000 miles, after several years of that I decided to try FinishLine Teflon Dry and my chain life went to 13,000 miles. In addition to chain noise I got using wax based crud the chains didn't last, that's because noise is an indication of wear, noise is metal to metal contact going on. Like a dope I listened to my LBS instead of following my mechanical instincts that the wax crud wasn't working, and I didn't listen to myself for about 3 or 4 years. I don't know how long the chain will last with Chain L on it yet and it may take several years before I do know.
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Old 11-03-12, 12:30 PM   #20
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can you see the teflon on some kind of dark paper?

Finish Line
Dry Lubricant With Teflon ???
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Old 11-03-12, 07:09 PM   #21
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can you see the teflon on some kind of dark paper?

Finish Line
Dry Lubricant With Teflon ???
You should be able to see it, but may not because it isn't there. Teflon in lubes is small particles in suspension in the carrier. Over time the teflon settles to the bottom of the bottle and can clump (teflon doesn't sticks to much, but it does stick to itself). So, unless you shake the bottle very vigorously to mix the settled teflon, you're applying solvent only to your chain with the teflon staying safely tucked away at the bottom of the bottle. Unfortunately, FL chose to use opaque bottles so you can't see if you've mixed it well enough, in contrast to Rock 'n Roll whose clear bottle allows you to tell very easily.
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Old 11-04-12, 08:50 AM   #22
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"Many street motorcycle tests show the plain teflon/wax stuff to work the best"

Totally different application. MC chains are permanently lubed internally and seals prevent dirt/water intrusion. Any lube you apply just stays on the rollers to prevent corrosion. If it's a dry wax type, it also does not trap this dirt but flakes off as one rides and keeps the chain clean.

After lots of experimentation, I've settled on GL-5 gear oil, applied like FB recommends for his stuff.
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Old 11-04-12, 11:50 AM   #23
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...Many street motorcycle tests show the plain teflon/wax stuff to work the best. ...
AFAIK, these motorcycle chains are all o-ring sealed, so externally applied lube does nothing for the pin bushing pivots. It serves mainly to deter rust and quiet the rollers. Bicycle chains, on the other hand, are vitally dependent on the lube penetrating and lubricating the pins and bushings.
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Old 11-04-12, 01:12 PM   #24
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Sorry for the shameless self-promotion, but this photo was too nice not to spread around.

That's Mark Legg Compton, oiling Katie's chain with you know what.

I make no claims that Chain-L in any way contributes to Katie's winning record, but is does help prevent losing due to mechanical issues.
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Old 11-04-12, 01:17 PM   #25
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Decent Dry Lubes just use a Vehicle that evaporates , after penetrating.
leaving behind some wear reduction particles of 'X' material.

Quote:
I wish I could find some lube that will last all winter, and dry in the cold.


good luck with that Ms Compton races Cyclocross,
the women's races are 0:45 long ,
and they have all week between races to prep for the next one ..

Have you considered switching over
to a Gates Center-track Belt drivetrain.
and eliminating the chain all together ?

I just use the Triflow that is handy , then wipe off surplus
from the outside .. I get a new chain in the spring.

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