acrowder

I'm having a lot of trouble getting this thing off. I've seen similar lockrings before and generally my screwdriver+hammer method has worked easily. This one won't budge. Anyone know if there's a tool for it?

Thanks in advance.

acrowder

Posting from my phone, I can't tell if that photo attached or not.

Jeff Wills

The photo worked. You need a SunTour freewheel tool: https://www.parktool.com/product/freewheel-remover-fr-2 and a big wrench or bench vise.

You don't want to remove the lockring unless you're not going to save the freewheel. That one looks to be in decent shape- you should remove it the right way.

acrowder

Well I need access to the hub, plus it doesn't coast anymore. I already have the replacement on hand, I'll have to get that tool though. Thanks a million.

acrowder

Also, I just checked and apparently I have every Park FW tool except FR-2, which had led me to think there wasn't a tool for this. Lol, figures.

edit: I ended up putting my FR-3 on a bench grinder. Worked perfectly! Now let's just hope I don't need the FR-3 too soon...

mrrabbit 

???

=8-)

Grand Bois

Great advice.

HillRider

I'm not sure the poster got the "joke".

For the record, that's an older Sun Tour freewheel that requires a 2-prong remover (Park FR-2 or equivalent). It does not have splines.

cny-bikeman

I don't see any indication on the holes that you have worked on them, but rather it appears you were trying to remove the freewheel by hammering on the removal flats! If the freewheel is not to be saved you need to disassemble by using a small strong punch or an old screwdriver small enough to fit into the holes on the faceplate and work clockwise. Be ready with a large rag or bucket underneath to catch the 1/8 inch ball bearings. When the top cone is off just lift the freehweel off, get rid of all the bearings and remove the pawls. you then should be able to put the remainder of the body in a vise (clamping where the pawls used to be) and turn it off counterclockwise.

p.s. You may have to do the above even with your modification to the other freewheel tool, which was unwise, as the grinding could compromise the strength of the tool and can't be as accurate as using an original. More importantly the very old Suntours had a raised ridge above the faceplate instead of the removal slot being completely enclosed. That makes for a chancy removal with anything but a centered, well-fit tool, firmly tightened down with the skewer. If you are able to use the remover be sure to loosen the skewer as soon as the freewheel breaks free.

ksisler

The Suntour FW tool I have fits right over the mentioned hex nut with no issue. And if you take the nut off first you will find it really hard to keep the tool lined up right to apply needed torque. Been a while but should suspect that that hex nut is related to the bearing/cone assembly and has nothing to do with the FW...

mrrabbit 

...couldn't help but wonder if that axle is bent...look at the variation in separation of the points of the lock nut and the inner circumference of the freewheel body.

=8-)

cny-bikeman

Either you've not removed hundreds or you're just not working on old enough bikes. Before Shimano was king Suntour and Regina were very common freewheels, and both took a notched remover. If a freewheel has notches it never has splines.

mrrabbit 

Actually, for a period of time old Regina's had both - spline and notch. People would mistake the notch as the the actual removal point - and in doing so not see the spline - where the removal was actually supposed to take place.

=8-)

supafast213

I support owning any freewheel/ cassette tool. They are cheap, I buy them as various groups come through the garage. If you have it, you'll never need to buy it again.