Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Upper seat tube dented in from repair stand mount

Search
Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Upper seat tube dented in from repair stand mount

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 10-29-12, 11:13 PM
  #1  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
i n f a m o u s's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 12
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Upper seat tube dented in from repair stand mount

Is it possible for a repair stand mount to dent a seat tube on a chromoly steel frame? I recently purchased a brand new Fuji bike from a LBS and noticed my seat tube was dented in near the upper region because of the mount from a repair stand.

I'm sure its not anything to be worried about but it does bother me because I purchased this bike new and I dislike the fact that my bike was improperly handled.

I called and told them about the indent near the upper region of the seat tube and the person of the phone told me that its impossible for the clamp to make such a dent on a steel frame bicycle. If they're going to deny it was their doing, would Fuji accept my claim?

Here's a picture of the seat tube where it's dented in. Also just to clear any confusion, my bicycle is flipped upside down in this picture.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg
IMG_20121029_220453.jpg (98.3 KB, 214 views)
i n f a m o u s is offline  
Old 10-29-12, 11:18 PM
  #2  
Senior Member
 
mrrabbit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: San Jose, California
Posts: 3,504

Bikes: 2001 Tommasini Sintesi w/ Campagnolo Daytona 10 Speed

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 145 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 35 Times in 30 Posts
That's appears to be tapered tubing in the seat cluster area, very often seen on non-lugged frames. Think double-butted inside out.

=8-)
__________________
5000+ wheels built since 1984...

Disclaimer:

1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
5. My all time favorite book is:

Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life
mrrabbit is offline  
Old 10-29-12, 11:21 PM
  #3  
Senior Member
 
Lexi01's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Geelong, Australia
Posts: 659

Bikes: Cannondale Supersix Hi-Mod / Scott Spark 930 / Scott Sportster 20 / Jamis Allegro 2.0

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Never really seen anyone clamp a bike that low on the tube for maintenance - or on the seattube at all - always on the (or a crappy replacement) seat post.
Lexi01 is offline  
Old 10-30-12, 01:16 AM
  #4  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: West Yorkshire, United Kingdom
Posts: 5,773
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 453 Post(s)
Liked 104 Times in 87 Posts
As you purchased it new, how about going back to the shop, and look at another bike of the same model, if this has the same 'dent' then it is how it was made with a tapered tube from the factory.
jimc101 is offline  
Old 10-30-12, 01:40 AM
  #5  
Senior Member
 
cale's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Seattle
Posts: 3,248

Bikes: Kuota Ksano. Litespeed T5 gravel - brilliant!

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times in 4 Posts
I don't understand the picture. What are we looking at? I've rotated the picture so that the top tube is on top. Are you talking about the area(s) that I show with arrows?
cale is offline  
Old 10-30-12, 06:22 AM
  #6  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: England, currently dividing my time between university in Guildford and home just outside Reading
Posts: 1,921

Bikes: Too many to list here!

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times in 2 Posts
That is almost certainly meant to look like that. Apart from anything else, if the tube had been dented that much, the paint would very likely have cracked and flaked in the area where the actual deformation of the metal took place.
Airburst is offline  
Old 10-30-12, 08:49 AM
  #7  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,739
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 25 Post(s)
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Bike forums has previous threads about damage from bike repair stands. It is not unheard of.
ksisler is offline  
Old 10-30-12, 09:33 AM
  #8  
Senior Member
 
CACycling's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Oxnard, CA
Posts: 4,571

Bikes: 2009 Fuji Roubaix RC; 2011 Fuji Cross 2.0; '92 Diamond Back Ascent EX

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Liked 16 Times in 12 Posts
If it is dented in that location, the seat post will be locked in place (or, if there is no seat post in place, you will not be able to install one). If you haven't already, check that to verify there is a problem.
CACycling is offline  
Old 10-30-12, 09:43 AM
  #9  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: River City, OR
Posts: 672
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Appears to be external butted tubing. If it was indeed "squashed" from the clamping, you'd have trouble removing or sliding the seat post in the seat tube. I'd be more concerned about the "big" hole drilled in the seat stay.
reddog3 is offline  
Old 10-30-12, 09:45 AM
  #10  
Guest
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Grid Reference, SK
Posts: 3,768

Bikes: I never learned to ride a bike. It is my deepest shame.

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times in 6 Posts
Repair stand clamps can damage frames. However, there are usually 2 or 4 flat dents, not a perfectly round and consistent taper that continues the length of the tube. What you are looking at is almost certainly a tapered tube - frames often are made with thicker metal at the top of the seat tube so there is enough material to accurately ream out after welding distortion.
LarDasse74 is offline  
Old 10-30-12, 10:02 AM
  #11  
Banned
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: NW,Oregon Coast
Posts: 43,598

Bikes: 8

Mentioned: 197 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7607 Post(s)
Liked 1,355 Times in 862 Posts
step 1. put seatpost in.. I've messed up a decal/sticker, nothing more.

Clean rag, frame in loose pressure, repair stand clamp is better.. if no seat post (or it's Carbon)
carbon there is a repair stand seatpost substitute,
the race team pros, dont use a tube clamp stand.
fietsbob is offline  
Old 10-30-12, 12:45 PM
  #12  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Spokane, WA
Posts: 2,243

Bikes: Specialized Sequoia Elite/Motobecane Fantom Cross Team Ti/'85 Trek 520

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times in 3 Posts
That looks intentional to me from the manufacturer.
bobotech is offline  
Old 10-30-12, 08:47 PM
  #13  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
i n f a m o u s's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 12
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Wow! Thanks for the replies and for reassuring me that this wasn't user error.

Originally Posted by jimc101
As you purchased it new, how about going back to the shop, and look at another bike of the same model, if this has the same 'dent' then it is how it was made with a tapered tube from the factory.
I have yet to confirm if my bike has the same dent on the seat tube on another bike at the shop but I will when I have the time. I'm just hoping the 'dented' area is tapered tubing like some members here pointed out.

Originally Posted by cale
I don't understand the picture. What are we looking at? I've rotated the picture so that the top tube is on top. Are you talking about the area(s) that I show with arrows?
Yes, that area you're pointing to.

Originally Posted by reddog3
Appears to be external butted tubing. If it was indeed "squashed" from the clamping, you'd have trouble removing or sliding the seat post in the seat tube. I'd be more concerned about the "big" hole drilled in the seat stay.
I can slide my seat post in and out no problem because of the generous amount of grease they applied to the seat post but until I see with my own eyes that my bike was manufactured the way it is, I will be at peace.

What's wrong with the hole near the seat stay? Wasn't that hole purposely drilled out to air out any moisture to prevent rusting? I noticed two more holes near the Chain stay too. I'm guessing they serve the same purpose as well?
i n f a m o u s is offline  
Old 10-30-12, 09:02 PM
  #14  
Senior Member
 
mrrabbit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: San Jose, California
Posts: 3,504

Bikes: 2001 Tommasini Sintesi w/ Campagnolo Daytona 10 Speed

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 145 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 35 Times in 30 Posts
During brazing/welding, hot gases inside the tubings need to vent.

=8-)
__________________
5000+ wheels built since 1984...

Disclaimer:

1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
5. My all time favorite book is:

Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life
mrrabbit is offline  
Old 10-30-12, 09:29 PM
  #15  
Senior Member
 
Old Hammer Boy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Utah
Posts: 1,082

Bikes: Trek, Cannondale Tandem, Surly LHT

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Those holes are a great entrance point for Frame Saver; a good idea for a steel frame.
Old Hammer Boy is offline  
Old 10-30-12, 11:26 PM
  #16  
Senior Member
 
cale's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Seattle
Posts: 3,248

Bikes: Kuota Ksano. Litespeed T5 gravel - brilliant!

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Is this, by any chance, a Fuji Feather? Described on the Fuji website as:

FRAME: Elios 2 w/ outer-butted seat tube
cale is offline  
Old 10-30-12, 11:31 PM
  #17  
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
 
Sixty Fiver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: YEG
Posts: 27,267

Bikes: See my sig...

Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 67 Post(s)
Liked 129 Times in 96 Posts
You can crush a bike in a repair stand but the stand has to be pretty tough and the mechanic has to be really strong and incredibly stupid to try and close a clamp on a tube that is too big for it's setting.

Aluminium frames on the other hand... you don't need to be quite as strong.

Get into some modern steel tubing with extremely thin walls and you can damage a frame much easier than you can with a straight gauge frame.
Sixty Fiver is offline  
Old 10-30-12, 11:31 PM
  #18  
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
 
Sixty Fiver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: YEG
Posts: 27,267

Bikes: See my sig...

Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 67 Post(s)
Liked 129 Times in 96 Posts
Originally Posted by reddog3
Appears to be external butted tubing. If it was indeed "squashed" from the clamping, you'd have trouble removing or sliding the seat post in the seat tube. I'd be more concerned about the "big" hole drilled in the seat stay.
The holes are for venting gases during welding / brazing.
Sixty Fiver is offline  
Old 10-31-12, 07:58 AM
  #19  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: River City, OR
Posts: 672
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
"The holes are for venting gases during welding / brazing."

Yes, I know the intention of holes for gas venting. The one in question here seems to be in an odd location and way larger than necessary. On a seat stay under compression it is of no consequence, but odd- just sayin'

I theorize than venting closed end tubes is not necessary. And I'm not the only one who welds tube structures (bike frames, etc) without vent holes.
reddog3 is offline  
Old 10-31-12, 09:48 AM
  #20  
Senior Member
 
CACycling's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Oxnard, CA
Posts: 4,571

Bikes: 2009 Fuji Roubaix RC; 2011 Fuji Cross 2.0; '92 Diamond Back Ascent EX

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Liked 16 Times in 12 Posts
Originally Posted by i n f a m o u s
I can slide my seat post in and out no problem because of the generous amount of grease they applied to the seat post but until I see with my own eyes that my bike was manufactured the way it is, I will be at peace.
There is very little tolerance in a seat tube/seat post interface. If the area in your picture was a dent and not the way the bike was manufactured, the seat post would not move.
CACycling is offline  
Old 10-31-12, 10:35 AM
  #21  
Senior Member
 
calstar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: santa barbara CA
Posts: 1,087
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 96 Post(s)
Liked 30 Times in 21 Posts
Originally Posted by CACycling
There is very little tolerance in a seat tube/seat post interface. If the area in your picture was a dent and not the way the bike was manufactured, the seat post would not move.
^^^^ Yep.
__________________
Brian
calstar is offline  
Old 10-31-12, 11:24 PM
  #22  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
i n f a m o u s's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 12
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by cale
Is this, by any chance, a Fuji Feather? Described on the Fuji website as:

FRAME: Elios 2 w/ outer-butted seat tube
It's actually a 2012 Fuji Classic.

Lol, I didn't pay much attention to the 'outer-butted seat tube' description when I read the specs for my bike. Thanks for saving me time from the bike shop.

Originally Posted by CACycling
There is very little tolerance in a seat tube/seat post interface. If the area in your picture was a dent and not the way the bike was manufactured, the seat post would not move.
I can slide my seat post without any problems which is a good indication that my seat tube has not been compromised. Thanks for the tip.
i n f a m o u s is offline  
Old 11-01-12, 01:28 PM
  #23  
Senior Member
 
Andrew R Stewart's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 18,094

Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4209 Post(s)
Liked 3,875 Times in 2,315 Posts
Originally Posted by reddog3
"The holes are for venting gases during welding / brazing."

Yes, I know the intention of holes for gas venting. The one in question here seems to be in an odd location and way larger than necessary. On a seat stay under compression it is of no consequence, but odd- just sayin'

I theorize than venting closed end tubes is not necessary. And I'm not the only one who welds tube structures (bike frames, etc) without vent holes.
reddog3- Millions of bikes have these holes. Some larger, some smaller. Usually towards the end of the tube, often in an out of the way/less seen location. It is very uncommon to have said vent hole be the source of a crack or other problem, that's why they're used, because they work REALLY well.

Another reason to have vent holes, and larger then tiny ones, is to allow the builder/manufacturer to rinse out the interior of the frame to remove the flux after joining the tubes. The flux could cause further corrosion and would prevent any rust inhibitor from fully coating the insides.

While there is a debate on the need to keep a tube vented after the building, to close off vents or not, their need during manufacturing is not in question. I have built frames with very well hidded vent holes, completely out of sight after the frame has parts assembled on it, only to be scolded by the painter. The vent holes can weep out stuff that contaminates paint. The painter might not see or remember where the holes are and might not take adequate precautions. Andy.
Andrew R Stewart is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
isuckatbiking
Road Cycling
21
05-04-15 08:56 PM
MightyLegnano
Bicycle Mechanics
5
11-10-14 10:08 AM
oddjob2
Classic and Vintage Bicycles: Whats it Worth? Appraisals.
5
05-30-14 07:29 AM
23skidoo
Classic & Vintage
10
04-26-11 08:09 PM
dman3
Framebuilders
2
11-01-10 02:03 PM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.