Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Results 1 to 16 of 16
  1. #1
    Junior Member 604m's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    11
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Bottom Bracket tools

    I have been searching for this answer for a few days. So, any help would be greatly appreciated. I recently came across a 80's Bianchi frame (Japanese). I don;t know much about bike mechanics, but I thought this would be a great project for me to learn. Better to make mistakes on this, than my road bike, right? Anyway I want to get it repainted, but I have to get the bottom bracket off. However, all the tools I have looked at don't seem to match the slot pattern on mine. Can anyone post a link to the correct tool I need to remove it? I have attached a picture to help my explanation.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
    Still learning oddjob2's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    North of Canada, Adirondacks, NNJ
    My Bikes
    Too many
    Posts
    5,016
    Mentioned
    23 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    1. Spray threads liberally with WD40 or PB Blaster and wait 15-30 minutes.
    2. Remove the outer lock ring with a pair of channel lock pliers or pin spanner (Park SPA-6), counterclockwise.
    3. Remove the BB cup with a bladed screwdriver and hammer or pin spanner, also counterclockwise.

    Voila!
    Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance you must keep moving. Albert Einstein
    2014 Additions: 1985 Trek 560, 1992 Trek Multitrack 700 (my 2nd), 1994 Trek Carbon 2200, Peugeot PX-10, 1981 Schwinn Voyager, 1989 Bridgestone RB-1

  3. #3
    Senior Member Bill Kapaun's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Mid Willamette Valley, Orygun
    My Bikes
    86 RockHopper,2008 Specialized Globe. Both upgraded to 9 speeds.
    Posts
    6,900
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Park-
    HCW-5 for the lock ring
    HCW-11 may work for the cup

    If you posted a pic of the fixed cup, one could make a recommendation for that.

    Penetrating oil is your friend. Especially on the fixed cup.

  4. #4
    Junior Member 604m's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    11
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Thanks for the responses. That helps a lot. Here is the other side.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #5
    Ceiclwr Hapus Gerryattrick's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Not on my bike enough
    My Bikes
    3 rideable, 6 in pieces
    Posts
    599
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    The second pic needs a 36mm box end spanner, not sure of part number.

    Hopefully this doesn't sound patronising, but don't forget that drive side needs to be turned clockwise to remove, while non-drive side should be turned normally to loosen - anti-clockwise as explained by oddjob2.
    Last edited by Gerryattrick; 11-02-12 at 05:02 PM.

  6. #6
    Still learning oddjob2's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    North of Canada, Adirondacks, NNJ
    My Bikes
    Too many
    Posts
    5,016
    Mentioned
    23 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    Drive side park hcw4 and a hammer.
    Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance you must keep moving. Albert Einstein
    2014 Additions: 1985 Trek 560, 1992 Trek Multitrack 700 (my 2nd), 1994 Trek Carbon 2200, Peugeot PX-10, 1981 Schwinn Voyager, 1989 Bridgestone RB-1

  7. #7
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    12
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I recently rebuilt my early '80s Bianchi (Italian, not Japanese). The fixed cup was really hard to remove, until I found this link on Sheldon Brown's website: http://sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/bbcups.html. Basically, it took me about 5 minutes after getting home from the hardware store (with less than $5.00 in nuts, bolts, and washers) to get the fixed cup off. Highly recommended.

  8. #8
    Junior Member 604m's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    11
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Thanks for the all the responses. I'm a newb, so all the advice is very helpful! I'll post my results later this week, when I get a chance to work on it. Thanks again.

  9. #9
    Junior Member 604m's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    11
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Got it off tonight, and I was able to strip most of the paint of today. Came off pretty easy thanks to all the tips!

  10. #10
    Quirky Grifter LesterOfPuppets's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Vancouver, USA
    My Bikes
    My War
    Posts
    20,004
    Mentioned
    42 Post(s)
    Tagged
    7 Thread(s)
    (oops, how did I not see that last post?, oh well, I'll leave my post up anyway...)

    If you're only going to pull and replace that cheap bottom bracket I'd just use a hammer and flatblade screwdriver on that BB lockring and adjustable cup. As for the fixed cup, 12" Crescent.

    Heck, you might even consider it if you're going to repack and continue using the BB. Once you repack it, it should be good for many miles.

    If you feel you'll be doing a lot of this type of work then go ahead and get a lockring tool at the very least. HCW-5.
    1980ish Free Spirit Sunbird fixed * 1996 Mongoose IBOC Zero-G * 1997 KHS Comp * 1990-ish Scapin * Lemond Buenos Aires Triple

  11. #11
    Senior Member TiBikeGuy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Singapore
    My Bikes
    Litespeed Ti Mtb, BikeE Recumbent, Cannondale H600 Hybrid,
    Posts
    343
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    If the right side is very stubborn to remove, some bike shops have the VAR Fixed Cup Removal Tool. #30 in Sheldon Brown's page. http://sheldonbrown.com/var/pages/var0016.html

    I have used this tool for many years and it really works.

  12. #12
    Junior Member 604m's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    11
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by LesterOfPuppets View Post
    (oops, how did I not see that last post?, oh well, I'll leave my post up anyway...)

    Heck, you might even consider it if you're going to repack and continue using the BB. Once you repack it, it should be good for many miles.

    HCW-5.
    I really don't know if its still good, and actually don't know how to tell. I was given the frame, and the BB was the only thing still attached (besides the fork). I just planned on replacing it with new one when I buy a new crank set. I'll also start getting the specific tools I need at that point too. I've been riding for a while, its about time I start to learn how to do all this stuff.

    But first I have to finish up the prep for the paint job.........and decide on a color, if I can ever make my mind up. But that is a different thread.

    Thanks for all the help!

  13. #13
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    245
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by 604m View Post
    I really don't know if its still good, and actually don't know how to tell. I was given the frame, and the BB was the only thing still attached (besides the fork). I just planned on replacing it with new one when I buy a new crank set. I'll also start getting the specific tools I need at that point too. I've been riding for a while, its about time I start to learn how to do all this stuff.

    But first I have to finish up the prep for the paint job.........and decide on a color, if I can ever make my mind up. But that is a different thread.

    Thanks for all the help!
    In my limited experience taking apart old bikes I found that simply putting fresh new clean grease in there with the existing bearings really made a huge difference. OF course what I've also found is most of the bikes I've gotten were bikes that never really saw much use. low end road bikes with perfectly nice frames that people bought and just didn't ride much. they may have been weeathered but bearings, cups and cones were always fine. take out the bearings, clean them off and then repack with a fresh liberal doseage of grease and voila! Of course I'm also of the opinion that cartridge bottom brackets are fairly inexpensive and downright easier to work with so that is a good option too. If you are somoene who is regularly doing this work and trying to make some profit flipping bikes, then repacking is the way to go as profit margins can be so slim. but if your setting this up as a new bike for your own use then spending a few bucks isn't going to kill you, you'll get an excellent bike in the end that is still far cheaper than buying new.

  14. #14
    Junior Member 604m's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    11
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Yeah, I was thinking about just repacking it. But since I plan on riding this bike quite a bit, I think I'll just put a new one in since they don't seem to be too terribly expensive. I cleaned the old one, and it will go into the parts box for possible future use.

  15. #15
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Pittsburgh, PA
    My Bikes
    '''96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '12 Surly Pacer, All are 3x8,9 or 10. It is hilly around here!
    Posts
    25,425
    Mentioned
    5 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    The fact that it's a nutted spindle implies it was a low quality bottom bracket to begin with and since you are going to need a new crank, it's unlikely that spindle will be the correct length anyway. My recommendation is that when you choose a crank you buy a matching cartridge style bottom bracket.

  16. #16
    Junior Member 604m's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    11
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by HillRider View Post
    .My recommendation is that when you choose a crank you buy a matching cartridge style bottom bracket.
    That is my plan. Currently doing research on the different brands and styles. I like the look of the Dia Compe, but will probably go with the Sugino SD sets from the sheldon brown site. I have seen some people here go with the Sram S300, but I don't care for the black color.

    Getting a little off topic for this thread...sorry

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •