Cycling and bicycle discussion forums. 
   Click here to join our community Log in to access your Control Panel  


Go Back   > >

Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 11-02-12, 02:29 PM   #1
604m
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
604m's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Ohio
Bikes:
Posts: 11
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Bottom Bracket tools

I have been searching for this answer for a few days. So, any help would be greatly appreciated. I recently came across a 80's Bianchi frame (Japanese). I don;t know much about bike mechanics, but I thought this would be a great project for me to learn. Better to make mistakes on this, than my road bike, right? Anyway I want to get it repainted, but I have to get the bottom bracket off. However, all the tools I have looked at don't seem to match the slot pattern on mine. Can anyone post a link to the correct tool I need to remove it? I have attached a picture to help my explanation.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_0398.jpg (91.7 KB, 93 views)
604m is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-02-12, 03:00 PM   #2
oddjob2 
Still learning
 
oddjob2's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: North of Canada, Adirondacks, NNJ
Bikes: Too many
Posts: 10,098
Mentioned: 21 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 275 Post(s)
1. Spray threads liberally with WD40 or PB Blaster and wait 15-30 minutes.
2. Remove the outer lock ring with a pair of channel lock pliers or pin spanner (Park SPA-6), counterclockwise.
3. Remove the BB cup with a bladed screwdriver and hammer or pin spanner, also counterclockwise.

Voila!
__________________
Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance you must keep moving. Albert Einstein
2016 Additions: 1981 Miyata 1000, 1981 Schwinn Voyageur 11.8 chrome, Schwinn Paramount 50th Anniversary, Dawes Galaxy, Raleigh International, 1985 Raleigh Alyeska
oddjob2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-02-12, 03:38 PM   #3
Bill Kapaun
Senior Member
 
Bill Kapaun's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Mid Willamette Valley, Orygun
Bikes: 86 RockHopper,2008 Specialized Globe. Both upgraded to 9 speeds.
Posts: 9,496
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 125 Post(s)
Park-
HCW-5 for the lock ring
HCW-11 may work for the cup

If you posted a pic of the fixed cup, one could make a recommendation for that.

Penetrating oil is your friend. Especially on the fixed cup.
Bill Kapaun is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-02-12, 03:48 PM   #4
604m
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
604m's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Ohio
Bikes:
Posts: 11
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks for the responses. That helps a lot. Here is the other side.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_0399.jpg (92.8 KB, 76 views)
604m is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-02-12, 04:15 PM   #5
Gerryattrick
Beicwyr Hapus
 
Gerryattrick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: The Dis-United States of Europe
Bikes: 3 rideable (Genesis, Dawes & Merlin, 2 in pieces (Orange & Dawes)
Posts: 1,339
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 38 Post(s)
The second pic needs a 36mm box end spanner, not sure of part number.

Hopefully this doesn't sound patronising, but don't forget that drive side needs to be turned clockwise to remove, while non-drive side should be turned normally to loosen - anti-clockwise as explained by oddjob2.

Last edited by Gerryattrick; 11-02-12 at 05:02 PM.
Gerryattrick is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-02-12, 05:19 PM   #6
oddjob2 
Still learning
 
oddjob2's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: North of Canada, Adirondacks, NNJ
Bikes: Too many
Posts: 10,098
Mentioned: 21 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 275 Post(s)
Drive side park hcw4 and a hammer.
__________________
Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance you must keep moving. Albert Einstein
2016 Additions: 1981 Miyata 1000, 1981 Schwinn Voyageur 11.8 chrome, Schwinn Paramount 50th Anniversary, Dawes Galaxy, Raleigh International, 1985 Raleigh Alyeska
oddjob2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-02-12, 06:22 PM   #7
CoachJim
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Bikes:
Posts: 12
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I recently rebuilt my early '80s Bianchi (Italian, not Japanese). The fixed cup was really hard to remove, until I found this link on Sheldon Brown's website: http://sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/bbcups.html. Basically, it took me about 5 minutes after getting home from the hardware store (with less than $5.00 in nuts, bolts, and washers) to get the fixed cup off. Highly recommended.
CoachJim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-12, 07:47 AM   #8
604m
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
604m's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Ohio
Bikes:
Posts: 11
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks for the all the responses. I'm a newb, so all the advice is very helpful! I'll post my results later this week, when I get a chance to work on it. Thanks again.
604m is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-12, 09:43 PM   #9
604m
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
604m's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Ohio
Bikes:
Posts: 11
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Got it off tonight, and I was able to strip most of the paint of today. Came off pretty easy thanks to all the tips!
604m is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-12, 11:30 PM   #10
LesterOfPuppets
cowboy, steel horse, etc
 
LesterOfPuppets's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Rock Springs, WY
Bikes: My War
Posts: 27,205
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 569 Post(s)
(oops, how did I not see that last post?, oh well, I'll leave my post up anyway...)

If you're only going to pull and replace that cheap bottom bracket I'd just use a hammer and flatblade screwdriver on that BB lockring and adjustable cup. As for the fixed cup, 12" Crescent.

Heck, you might even consider it if you're going to repack and continue using the BB. Once you repack it, it should be good for many miles.

If you feel you'll be doing a lot of this type of work then go ahead and get a lockring tool at the very least. HCW-5.
LesterOfPuppets is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-12, 11:58 PM   #11
TiBikeGuy
Senior Member
 
TiBikeGuy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Singapore
Bikes: Litespeed Ti Mtb, BikeE Recumbent, Cannondale H600 Hybrid,
Posts: 347
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
If the right side is very stubborn to remove, some bike shops have the VAR Fixed Cup Removal Tool. #30 in Sheldon Brown's page. http://sheldonbrown.com/var/pages/var0016.html

I have used this tool for many years and it really works.
TiBikeGuy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-12, 08:28 AM   #12
604m
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
604m's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Ohio
Bikes:
Posts: 11
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by LesterOfPuppets View Post
(oops, how did I not see that last post?, oh well, I'll leave my post up anyway...)

Heck, you might even consider it if you're going to repack and continue using the BB. Once you repack it, it should be good for many miles.

HCW-5.
I really don't know if its still good, and actually don't know how to tell. I was given the frame, and the BB was the only thing still attached (besides the fork). I just planned on replacing it with new one when I buy a new crank set. I'll also start getting the specific tools I need at that point too. I've been riding for a while, its about time I start to learn how to do all this stuff.

But first I have to finish up the prep for the paint job.........and decide on a color, if I can ever make my mind up. But that is a different thread.

Thanks for all the help!
604m is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-12, 09:25 AM   #13
DiscTruckerMF
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Bikes:
Posts: 253
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by 604m View Post
I really don't know if its still good, and actually don't know how to tell. I was given the frame, and the BB was the only thing still attached (besides the fork). I just planned on replacing it with new one when I buy a new crank set. I'll also start getting the specific tools I need at that point too. I've been riding for a while, its about time I start to learn how to do all this stuff.

But first I have to finish up the prep for the paint job.........and decide on a color, if I can ever make my mind up. But that is a different thread.

Thanks for all the help!
In my limited experience taking apart old bikes I found that simply putting fresh new clean grease in there with the existing bearings really made a huge difference. OF course what I've also found is most of the bikes I've gotten were bikes that never really saw much use. low end road bikes with perfectly nice frames that people bought and just didn't ride much. they may have been weeathered but bearings, cups and cones were always fine. take out the bearings, clean them off and then repack with a fresh liberal doseage of grease and voila! Of course I'm also of the opinion that cartridge bottom brackets are fairly inexpensive and downright easier to work with so that is a good option too. If you are somoene who is regularly doing this work and trying to make some profit flipping bikes, then repacking is the way to go as profit margins can be so slim. but if your setting this up as a new bike for your own use then spending a few bucks isn't going to kill you, you'll get an excellent bike in the end that is still far cheaper than buying new.
DiscTruckerMF is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-19-12, 07:53 AM   #14
604m
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
604m's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Ohio
Bikes:
Posts: 11
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Yeah, I was thinking about just repacking it. But since I plan on riding this bike quite a bit, I think I'll just put a new one in since they don't seem to be too terribly expensive. I cleaned the old one, and it will go into the parts box for possible future use.
604m is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-19-12, 08:03 AM   #15
HillRider 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '''96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '12 Surly Pacer, All are 3x8,9 or 10. It is hilly around here!
Posts: 29,117
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 179 Post(s)
The fact that it's a nutted spindle implies it was a low quality bottom bracket to begin with and since you are going to need a new crank, it's unlikely that spindle will be the correct length anyway. My recommendation is that when you choose a crank you buy a matching cartridge style bottom bracket.
HillRider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-26-12, 07:54 AM   #16
604m
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
604m's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Ohio
Bikes:
Posts: 11
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by HillRider View Post
.My recommendation is that when you choose a crank you buy a matching cartridge style bottom bracket.
That is my plan. Currently doing research on the different brands and styles. I like the look of the Dia Compe, but will probably go with the Sugino SD sets from the sheldon brown site. I have seen some people here go with the Sram S300, but I don't care for the black color.

Getting a little off topic for this thread...sorry
604m is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:32 AM.