wngo17

Hi All. First post yay!

My road bike's rear wheel makes a clicking noise whenever I lean to the left or right regardless if I'm pedaling or just coasting. I can push the bike, lean, and the clicking noise will appear.

I've checked if there were anything touching the wheels and there isn't. There also doesn't seem to be any lose spokes.

There's also this ratcheting noise at every pedal on the crank side. Performance Bike was able to fix it when I first purchased the bike, but now its back.

Any suggestions? I just got this bike about 2 months ago, and can't seem to get it quiet like the way it should be! It's a Fuji Roubaix 2.0 Performance Exclusive.

10 Wheels

(ratcheting noise at every pedal on the crank side)

Mine was the crankset.

wngo17

How was this problem fixed?

10 Wheels

It was difficult to find.

I switched cranksets with another bike that was quite.

The crankest made the noise on the other bike.

Bought a new crankest. Now no noise.

cny-bikeman

Spoke tension changes when you lean to one side. Most likely your spoke tension is low, either in one area or overall. The noise comes when the spokes flex against each other where they cross. Sometimes it does not occur until they have rubbed together enough to cause a burr where they meet.

Don't know what you mean by ratcheting noise (multiple clicks?) but a clicking sound most commonly is from loose crank arms, loose pedals and loose chainwheel bolts.

wngo17

Ya its like multiple clicks when I pedal in the downward position on the crank. Should I take them off and re-grease? or would tightening them usually fix the issue?

Andrew R Stewart 

Typicially threaded fittings (nuts and bolts) get lubed with grease or thread compound. Pressed fittings (tapered cranks) stay dry, splined or pinch bolted cranks are lubed. There are exceptions but this is a good guide line.

Yes. Loose or dry chain ring bolts can make ticks. Loose or indented spokes (at their crossings) spokes or nipples can make pings and cracks.

Often by just taking every thing apart and reassembling with proper lube (or not, as above) and the right torque range noises can be quieted. Some stuff AND RIDERS need this more often then others. Andy.

bhchdh 

Take it back to Performance.

cny-bikeman

First order of business should be to take it back if you still have adjustment period left. If that is not an option for some reason....

You don't have to remove the crank arms, just tighten the bolt that holds them onto the spindle. The pedals should be removed just in case they were not greased when initially installed, and then greased, reinstalled and tightened (left pedal is reverse threaded - righty-loosey). I just shoot chainwheel bolts with a very small amount of very light spray lube and wipe off the excess before tightening. If those don't work then you may have to disassemble.

wngo17

Thanks everyone for the advice.

I would take it back to Performance but they're closed by the time I get home on the weekdays. The last time I took it back for clicking noises, the mechanic pretty much put a bunch of grease on the chain... Guess it depends on the mechanic that works on it. The very first time the bike had to go back, the mechanic actually spent some time to diagnose the problem.

wngo17

Update: The clicking noise from the crank was actually the chain hitting the front derailleur every time I pedaled. Fixed that by playing with the tension.

As for the wheel clicking noises, I haven't been able to fix that. I tried adjusting the tension, but since I'm a newbie, not sure if I was doing it correctly.

I'll continue with it tonight!

Thanks all!

wngo17

I'll take to let everyone know the problem was fixed by Performance Bike! They spent an hour trying to figure out the wheel sound, but couldn't figure it out. So they decided to swap both front and rear wheels!