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Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

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Old 11-24-12, 01:03 PM   #1
landdnl
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KHS Flite 250 wheel recommendation

I recently purchased a KHS Flite 250 flat bar road bike(2008 possibly) to use for my winter commute. For the money, it is perfect. Whisper quiet, shifts perfectly, and very smooth riding. The only 2 things that I'd like to upgrade are the wheels, primarily, and the brakes.

Frame: CrMo 4130 Double butted 3-main w/carrier bosses
Fork: Carbon w/Alloy steerer
Headset: Cane Creek Aheadset
Rims: Weinmann XTR16 Doublewall w/CNC sidewall
Hubs: Formula alloy QR, Cassette
Tires: Kenda Kontender 700X26C
Front Derailleur: Shimano FD-R440
Rear Derailleur: Shimano RD-2200
Shifters: Shimano ST-R221 for Flat Bar
Chain: KMC Z82
Crankset: Alloy Forged 50/34
Bottom Bracket: Sealed cartridge
Cassette: SRAM PG-850 11-28, 8 Speed
Pedals: Resin w/steel cage
Seatpost: Alloy Micro-adjust
Saddle: KHS Road Padded
Handlebar: Alloy Flat Bar, 580mm
Brake Levers: Shimano ST-R221 for Flat Bar
Brakes: Alloy dual pivot

The problem is the rear dropout is 126mm. I've only got back into cycling for about 7 months so there's a lot I don't know about, so excuse the silly questions. Is there any off the shelf wheels that would fit this, or do I have to have a LBS build a set. I was thinking down the road of possibly going to 10 speed, but I guess with the rear dropout spacing that's not going to happen. Or can I? The brakes are adequate, but the pads are going to wear out quickly. I don't know if there are better replacement pads for these brakes or not. I don't know the manufacturer of the brakes(No name or part# on brakes). One more ramble and I'm done. The Kenda Kontender wheels(26mm) roll as smooth as silk(No road vibration). Any better quality tire to recommend?

Last edited by landdnl; 11-24-12 at 01:14 PM.
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Old 11-24-12, 01:30 PM   #2
jimc101
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Originally Posted by landdnl View Post
The problem is the rear dropout is 126mm.
You may want to re-measure that, 126mm hasn't been a common standard for the rear OLD for 20+ years now, add to that you have a cassette rear hub, these are only available in 130mm widths (on a road bike) On the basis of it being a 130mm OLD hub, you need to set a budget, and requirements, i.e. what load does the bike carry, if light, a factory wheel set will be great, if heavy, you may want to look at ta handbuilt 32/36 hole set.

For brakes, what pads are you using? Koolstop Salmon are the standard choice of BF, if you were to change the complete brake, would look at a mid range set of Shimano calipers, they are basic, but functionally as good as you get.

For upgrading to 10 speed, would look at the cost of this vs a complete bike, there may not be much if anything in it, to convert from what you have, you would need a complete drivetrain - shifters, F&R dérailleurs crank, cassette chain. Add the cost of wheels and brakes to this, and a complete bike may be cheaper.
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Old 11-24-12, 01:51 PM   #3
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"Whisper quiet, shifts perfectly, and very smooth riding."

Why f*** with it?
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Old 11-24-12, 02:00 PM   #4
landdnl
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You may want to re-measure that, 126mm hasn't been a common standard for the rear OLD for 20+ years now, add to that you have a cassette rear hub, these are only available in 130mm widths (on a road bike) On the basis of it being a 130mm OLD hub, you need to set a budget, and requirements, i.e. what load does the bike carry, if light, a factory wheel set will be great, if heavy, you may want to look at ta handbuilt 32/36 hole set.



For brakes, what pads are you using? Koolstop Salmon are the standard choice of BF, if you were to change the complete brake, would look at a mid range set of Shimano calipers, they are basic, but functionally as good as you get.

For upgrading to 10 speed, would look at the cost of this vs a complete bike, there may not be much if anything in it, to convert from what you have, you would need a complete drivetrain - shifters, F&R dérailleurs crank, cassette chain. Add the cost of wheels and brakes to this, and a complete bike may be cheaper.
Well, I assumed it was 130mm dropout until I tried putting in my Fulcrum 3 wheelset. The front dropped in fine, but the rear didn't even come close to fitting, so I took the skewer out, and even took the cassette off, tried to no avail. I measured between the dropouts with a caliper and it measured 126mm. The cone retaining nuts(if that's what they're called) were still halfway on the chainstays. Maybe someone used a narrower hub and compressed the crmo dropouts to make it work?
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Old 11-24-12, 02:18 PM   #5
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"Whisper quiet, shifts perfectly, and very smooth riding."

Why f*** with it?
Because the wheels are extremely heavy, and the brakes are wearing excessively.
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