KHS Flite 250 wheel recommendation
11-24-12, 01:03 PM
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KHS Flite 250 wheel recommendation
I recently purchased a KHS Flite 250 flat bar road bike(2008 possibly) to use for my winter commute. For the money, it is perfect. Whisper quiet, shifts perfectly, and very smooth riding. The only 2 things that I'd like to upgrade are the wheels, primarily, and the brakes.
Frame: CrMo 4130 Double butted 3-main w/carrier bosses
Fork: Carbon w/Alloy steerer
Headset: Cane Creek Aheadset
Rims: Weinmann XTR16 Doublewall w/CNC sidewall
Hubs: Formula alloy QR, Cassette
Tires: Kenda Kontender 700X26C
Front Derailleur: Shimano FD-R440
Rear Derailleur: Shimano RD-2200
Shifters: Shimano ST-R221 for Flat Bar
Chain: KMC Z82
Crankset: Alloy Forged 50/34
Bottom Bracket: Sealed cartridge
Cassette: SRAM PG-850 11-28, 8 Speed
Pedals: Resin w/steel cage
Seatpost: Alloy Micro-adjust
Saddle: KHS Road Padded
Handlebar: Alloy Flat Bar, 580mm
Brake Levers: Shimano ST-R221 for Flat Bar
Brakes: Alloy dual pivot
The problem is the rear dropout is 126mm. I've only got back into cycling for about 7 months so there's a lot I don't know about, so excuse the silly questions. Is there any off the shelf wheels that would fit this, or do I have to have a LBS build a set. I was thinking down the road of possibly going to 10 speed, but I guess with the rear dropout spacing that's not going to happen. Or can I? The brakes are adequate, but the pads are going to wear out quickly. I don't know if there are better replacement pads for these brakes or not. I don't know the manufacturer of the brakes(No name or part# on brakes). One more ramble and I'm done. The Kenda Kontender wheels(26mm) roll as smooth as silk(No road vibration). Any better quality tire to recommend?
Frame: CrMo 4130 Double butted 3-main w/carrier bosses
Fork: Carbon w/Alloy steerer
Headset: Cane Creek Aheadset
Rims: Weinmann XTR16 Doublewall w/CNC sidewall
Hubs: Formula alloy QR, Cassette
Tires: Kenda Kontender 700X26C
Front Derailleur: Shimano FD-R440
Rear Derailleur: Shimano RD-2200
Shifters: Shimano ST-R221 for Flat Bar
Chain: KMC Z82
Crankset: Alloy Forged 50/34
Bottom Bracket: Sealed cartridge
Cassette: SRAM PG-850 11-28, 8 Speed
Pedals: Resin w/steel cage
Seatpost: Alloy Micro-adjust
Saddle: KHS Road Padded
Handlebar: Alloy Flat Bar, 580mm
Brake Levers: Shimano ST-R221 for Flat Bar
Brakes: Alloy dual pivot
The problem is the rear dropout is 126mm. I've only got back into cycling for about 7 months so there's a lot I don't know about, so excuse the silly questions. Is there any off the shelf wheels that would fit this, or do I have to have a LBS build a set. I was thinking down the road of possibly going to 10 speed, but I guess with the rear dropout spacing that's not going to happen. Or can I? The brakes are adequate, but the pads are going to wear out quickly. I don't know if there are better replacement pads for these brakes or not. I don't know the manufacturer of the brakes(No name or part# on brakes). One more ramble and I'm done. The Kenda Kontender wheels(26mm) roll as smooth as silk(No road vibration). Any better quality tire to recommend?
Last edited by landdnl; 11-24-12 at 01:14 PM.
11-24-12, 01:30 PM
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You may want to re-measure that, 126mm hasn't been a common standard for the rear OLD for 20+ years now, add to that you have a cassette rear hub, these are only available in 130mm widths (on a road bike) On the basis of it being a 130mm OLD hub, you need to set a budget, and requirements, i.e. what load does the bike carry, if light, a factory wheel set will be great, if heavy, you may want to look at ta handbuilt 32/36 hole set.
For brakes, what pads are you using? Koolstop Salmon are the standard choice of BF, if you were to change the complete brake, would look at a mid range set of Shimano calipers, they are basic, but functionally as good as you get.
For upgrading to 10 speed, would look at the cost of this vs a complete bike, there may not be much if anything in it, to convert from what you have, you would need a complete drivetrain - shifters, F&R dérailleurs crank, cassette chain. Add the cost of wheels and brakes to this, and a complete bike may be cheaper.
For brakes, what pads are you using? Koolstop Salmon are the standard choice of BF, if you were to change the complete brake, would look at a mid range set of Shimano calipers, they are basic, but functionally as good as you get.
For upgrading to 10 speed, would look at the cost of this vs a complete bike, there may not be much if anything in it, to convert from what you have, you would need a complete drivetrain - shifters, F&R dérailleurs crank, cassette chain. Add the cost of wheels and brakes to this, and a complete bike may be cheaper.
11-24-12, 01:51 PM
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"Whisper quiet, shifts perfectly, and very smooth riding."
Why f*** with it?
Why f*** with it?
11-24-12, 02:00 PM
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You may want to re-measure that, 126mm hasn't been a common standard for the rear OLD for 20+ years now, add to that you have a cassette rear hub, these are only available in 130mm widths (on a road bike) On the basis of it being a 130mm OLD hub, you need to set a budget, and requirements, i.e. what load does the bike carry, if light, a factory wheel set will be great, if heavy, you may want to look at ta handbuilt 32/36 hole set.
For brakes, what pads are you using? Koolstop Salmon are the standard choice of BF, if you were to change the complete brake, would look at a mid range set of Shimano calipers, they are basic, but functionally as good as you get.
For upgrading to 10 speed, would look at the cost of this vs a complete bike, there may not be much if anything in it, to convert from what you have, you would need a complete drivetrain - shifters, F&R dérailleurs crank, cassette chain. Add the cost of wheels and brakes to this, and a complete bike may be cheaper.
For brakes, what pads are you using? Koolstop Salmon are the standard choice of BF, if you were to change the complete brake, would look at a mid range set of Shimano calipers, they are basic, but functionally as good as you get.
For upgrading to 10 speed, would look at the cost of this vs a complete bike, there may not be much if anything in it, to convert from what you have, you would need a complete drivetrain - shifters, F&R dérailleurs crank, cassette chain. Add the cost of wheels and brakes to this, and a complete bike may be cheaper.
11-24-12, 02:18 PM
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