Working On a Newer Carbon Frame Bike - 5 Best Tips
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Working On a Newer Carbon Frame Bike - 5 Best Tips
I'm picking up a new 2012 Cannondale Synapse Carbon 3 at the end of the week. There are several items on this bike that are new to me:
Carbon Frame, Brifters, BB30 Crankset etc.
I have had mostly Mountain bikes up till now and I'm currently riding a 2012 Fuel EX 6. I've done lots of work on my '74 Schwinn Continental also (if that counts for anything.)
I enjoy doing my own work. I have a good set of tools and a stand and I've worked on a wide variety of bikes for friends and neighbors but this roadie will be completely new to me. Everything I've worked on to date has been Al or Steal with somewhat conventional friction or indexed shifters, cassettes and cranks.
I was wondering if you experience folks would be willing to share your 5 top tips (or so) of what to look out for or be careful of when transitioning over to working on this bike? I'm hoping to get ahead of any painful($$$) learning curves. If this has been covered, please point me to a good search term or thread that I can read.
Thanks for any help or input,
Dan
Carbon Frame, Brifters, BB30 Crankset etc.
I have had mostly Mountain bikes up till now and I'm currently riding a 2012 Fuel EX 6. I've done lots of work on my '74 Schwinn Continental also (if that counts for anything.)
I enjoy doing my own work. I have a good set of tools and a stand and I've worked on a wide variety of bikes for friends and neighbors but this roadie will be completely new to me. Everything I've worked on to date has been Al or Steal with somewhat conventional friction or indexed shifters, cassettes and cranks.
I was wondering if you experience folks would be willing to share your 5 top tips (or so) of what to look out for or be careful of when transitioning over to working on this bike? I'm hoping to get ahead of any painful($$$) learning curves. If this has been covered, please point me to a good search term or thread that I can read.
Thanks for any help or input,
Dan
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Register your bike if buying new (duh) and read the terms of the warranty.
Buy a torque wrench and use it religiously.
Apply carbon assembly paste where appropriate.
I would personally leave stuff like cutting down a carbon steerer and messing with BB30 cups to a shop.
Bring it to the shop if you crash it and make sure it gets thoroughly checked out.
Buy a torque wrench and use it religiously.
Apply carbon assembly paste where appropriate.
I would personally leave stuff like cutting down a carbon steerer and messing with BB30 cups to a shop.
Bring it to the shop if you crash it and make sure it gets thoroughly checked out.
#3
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^+1 especially the torque wrench ( one in inch pounds or newton meters NOT foot pounds) and carbon paste. You should also pick up a set of metric allen sockets to go with the torque wrench. Torque wrenches and allen keys don't play well together.
Be careful of your seatpost. Through 2012, Cannondale spec'd their own proprietary carbon seatpost. (It was discontinued with the 2013 models) It has a distinctive tear-drop shape and no other seatpost will work. My Synapse Carbon 6 frame has an AL sleeve in the seat tube to help prevent a crushing load when tightening but the top clamp attaches directly onto the carbon seatpost. Without carbon assembly paste both clamps slipped on me, the tightening torque is only 5-6 nm (which ain't much). It took application of the paste on both the post and the inner clamp surface to stop the slipping. I think your Carbon 3 got a carbon steerer (mines AL) so take care there too. And have your shop check the torque on your crankset bolt. Mine started coming loose on my first 50 miler. It wasn't a fun ride home.
In general just take your time and use your torque wrench - even if you have Steve Austin's calibrated bionic hand.
Now go out and ride, the bike is the stiffest but most comfortable bike I have ever ridden. Congratulations and Enjoy!
Be careful of your seatpost. Through 2012, Cannondale spec'd their own proprietary carbon seatpost. (It was discontinued with the 2013 models) It has a distinctive tear-drop shape and no other seatpost will work. My Synapse Carbon 6 frame has an AL sleeve in the seat tube to help prevent a crushing load when tightening but the top clamp attaches directly onto the carbon seatpost. Without carbon assembly paste both clamps slipped on me, the tightening torque is only 5-6 nm (which ain't much). It took application of the paste on both the post and the inner clamp surface to stop the slipping. I think your Carbon 3 got a carbon steerer (mines AL) so take care there too. And have your shop check the torque on your crankset bolt. Mine started coming loose on my first 50 miler. It wasn't a fun ride home.
In general just take your time and use your torque wrench - even if you have Steve Austin's calibrated bionic hand.
Now go out and ride, the bike is the stiffest but most comfortable bike I have ever ridden. Congratulations and Enjoy!
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I'll add a few more.
Shift your expectations from how many years to how many miles.
Increase your maintainance to monthly, not seasonally.
Start a fund for the next frame.
Shift your expectations from how many years to how many miles.
Increase your maintainance to monthly, not seasonally.
Start a fund for the next frame.
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Derailleur set up is finickier with brifters, obviously, but it's not radically different. Brakes are the same.
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This may be a bit too obvious, and I apply it to all bikes, but never clamp a workstand on the frame..I have seen it done by so called professionals! Install seatpost and clamp on that.
#7
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1 Your brake/shifters tune just like your mtn index shifting system. They just look different.
2 Torque wrenches are expensive -- torque keys calibrated for stem and seatpost torques are cheaper, but less generally useful.
3 If you think your bb is done, it probably is.
4 Bikes make noise, carbon bikes amplify noises. Get used to it. Don't freak out.
5 Enjoy the heck out of your new bike.
2 Torque wrenches are expensive -- torque keys calibrated for stem and seatpost torques are cheaper, but less generally useful.
3 If you think your bb is done, it probably is.
4 Bikes make noise, carbon bikes amplify noises. Get used to it. Don't freak out.
5 Enjoy the heck out of your new bike.
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Do not exceed 5 nm on any stem bolts, 40 in-lbs are enough. Use a 1/4 inch drive torque wrench on stem bolts and any small bolts.
#11
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Thanks everyone. I have some Carbon Paste on order and a set of CDI Preset Torque wrenches on the way. I have standard torque wrenches but for these type of common adjustments it's nice to have the convienence of the presets plus they are easier to pack for on route adjustments.
Any particular recommendations on a chain catcher for this bike? I'll search around on the site also.
Thanks again,
Dan
Any particular recommendations on a chain catcher for this bike? I'll search around on the site also.
Thanks again,
Dan
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The catalog page shows a braze-on mount front derailleur. K-Edge makes a braze-on mount chain catcher which should work with your bike.
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You have received some good advice already and seem to be mechanically inclined and willing to learn so the only advice I have is use your good mechanical common sense and you should be fine and as you have already demonstrated what you don’t know or are not sure of ask, you should be fine. Enjoy your new ride!
My favorite Torque wrench for bike repair is a Wiha 28554 TorqueVario-S Handle, Newton Meter Scale 2.0- 8.0Nm
My favorite Torque wrench for bike repair is a Wiha 28554 TorqueVario-S Handle, Newton Meter Scale 2.0- 8.0Nm
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It may not be fancy but it gets me were I need to go.
https://www.jtgraphics.net/cyclist_bicycles.htm
It may not be fancy but it gets me were I need to go.
https://www.jtgraphics.net/cyclist_bicycles.htm
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Thanks for that JTGraphics. Wish I'd of seen that Wiha Torque Handle before I ordered the CDI set. I have a couple of Wiha sets and individual tools and really like them. Maybe to mark my first 1000 miles?
Ride on,
Dan
Ride on,
Dan
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Don't let people make you paranoid. It's not fragile Wedgewood China. Common sense.
Don in Austin
Don in Austin
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Picked up the bike. I've got my torque wrenches and my carbon paste. Had a few more questions.
When you pick up a new bike, do you expect to get the manuals and instructions for all the components? I received the basic manual on the bike, but nothing for the Ultegra components, the FSA Crankset, or the DT Swiss wheels and hubs. I've collected some documentation off the manufacturer's websites, but most of this is 2012 and most sites have their 2013 stuff out now. I'd like to get the manufacture's info on recommended maintenance, operating instructions etc. Is it typical to have to run around and collect all this information? I bought a Giant Road bike off of Amazon a year ago and it came with those sheets in the box, is that not typical? Does the LBS just not usually give them out with the bike or did they just forget to give them to me or are they not included?
I'm having a particularly hard time locating any info on my DT Swiss RR1600 Rims and Hubs. There is no mention of them on the DT Swiss website. I have found some type of similar models. These are the ratchet system attachment and I think they are tool less service hubs which would be nice, but I'd like to see some manuals mention the this model number and give me some specifics. Anyone familiar with these and know where to get information? These are too expensive to be poking around and experimenting.
Thanks,
Dan
When you pick up a new bike, do you expect to get the manuals and instructions for all the components? I received the basic manual on the bike, but nothing for the Ultegra components, the FSA Crankset, or the DT Swiss wheels and hubs. I've collected some documentation off the manufacturer's websites, but most of this is 2012 and most sites have their 2013 stuff out now. I'd like to get the manufacture's info on recommended maintenance, operating instructions etc. Is it typical to have to run around and collect all this information? I bought a Giant Road bike off of Amazon a year ago and it came with those sheets in the box, is that not typical? Does the LBS just not usually give them out with the bike or did they just forget to give them to me or are they not included?
I'm having a particularly hard time locating any info on my DT Swiss RR1600 Rims and Hubs. There is no mention of them on the DT Swiss website. I have found some type of similar models. These are the ratchet system attachment and I think they are tool less service hubs which would be nice, but I'd like to see some manuals mention the this model number and give me some specifics. Anyone familiar with these and know where to get information? These are too expensive to be poking around and experimenting.
Thanks,
Dan
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