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  1. #1
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    Don't Get CenterLock

    How do you undo this (with thanks in advance)?

    IMAG0022.jpg

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    Sprinter linus's Avatar
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    Undo what?

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    With a 17mm open spanner.

    - Joel

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    It appears to be a threaded axle, so the locknut should unscrew. See of the cone behind it is slotted for a thin wrench (cone wrench). If so, you canuse an open end on the locknut and the cone wrench behind it. There are plenty of tutorials on adjusting hub bearings, so this will be fairly straight forward.

    If there aren't flats for a cone wrench, see if the left side has them. Or you can possibly wotk the right locknut against the left one, and disassemble from whichever side comes free first.
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  5. #5
    Constant tinkerer FastJake's Avatar
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    I'm so confused. Why is the title "Don't Get CenterLock"? You don't even have a rotor on there to remove.
    Why "derailer" is the correct way to spell the gear-change mechanism: sheldonbrown.com/derailer.html

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    I was presuming that the silver circle thingy needed to be unscrewed so that I could insert a rotor "underneath" and tighten up again. I've since learned that you simply place the rotor here then screw a lockring down on it. If I had been supplied the lockrings it would have all made sense. Thanks anyway all.

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    yup... Enlarging the picture provided by the OP, I can just make out what looks to be the tiniest corner of wrench flat at about the 4 - 5 o'clock position under the lock nut.
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    S'Cruzer pierce's Avatar
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    ouch. 26 spoke wheel with disk brakes? what could possibly go wrong with that?

  9. #9
    Senior Member mrrabbit's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark S View Post
    How do you undo this (with thanks in advance)?

    IMAG0022.jpg
    If you don't mind Mark S, I'm inclined to use part of your photo in the following:

    http://www.mrrabbit.net/docs/spokeheads/main.html

    =8-)
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark S View Post
    If I had been supplied the lockrings it would have all made sense. Thanks anyway all.
    The rotors (not the hubs) are supplied with lockrings, and you use a TL-LR15 to tighten it to 40 Nm, this is covered in the tech docs http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/te...9830604906.pdf which you get a copy of, if you buy the rotor in retail packaging.

  11. #11
    ot.net slave
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    Quote Originally Posted by pierce View Post
    ouch. 26 spoke wheel with disk brakes? what could possibly go wrong with that?
    looks like a 28 to me, probably from a factory MT-65 wheelset (the pictured hub looks like an SLX HB-m65x). The spokes are particularly thick, as I recall, and it will hold up just fine to disc brake use. Spoke count in isolation does not determine the strength of a wheel or its suitability for disc brake use.

    - Joel

  12. #12
    Bianchi Goddess Bianchigirll's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FastJake View Post
    I'm so confused. Why is the title "Don't Get CenterLock"? You don't even have a rotor on there to remove.

    Like everyone else I thought the OP wa trying to service the bearings! I have to get a bike with those fancy disc brakes one day.
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  13. #13
    Certified Bike Brat Burton's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark S View Post
    I was presuming that the silver circle thingy needed to be unscrewed so that I could insert a rotor "underneath" and tighten up again. I've since learned that you simply place the rotor here then screw a lockring down on it. If I had been supplied the lockrings it would have all made sense. Thanks anyway all.
    If you really insist - you can use the lockring from most cassettes and its the same tool used to tighten both of them. But yup - you'd probably be much happier with a brake rotor installed there first and the lockring does come as part of the kit. Optionally if you really really hate centerlocks - adapter rings are made to convert the system to a standard bolt pattern.

    For me its a little late - I kinda like them!
    Last edited by Burton; 12-26-12 at 01:58 PM.

  14. #14
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    More like
    I don't get centerlock
    cone adjustment, I'd just use the opposite side of the Hub and do the loosening,
    re packing and re adjustment on that side.

    Make the side , shown, you have a hard time dealing with ,
    Tightened against each other, 2 wrenches, 1 a cone wrench,
    so It won't come loose.

    then put the axle back in, with the fresh grease, or what ever you had in mind.
    and do the cone adjustment from the other side.
    Last edited by fietsbob; 12-28-12 at 09:50 AM.

  15. #15
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    BTW- don't throw out a worn out disc. If you ever decide you need to remove the center-lock ring, mount the old disc to it and tighten the lockring Then mount some improvised U shaped piece of steel in a vise, slip the disc over it, and turn the wheel to the left to turn off the ring the same way you would to remove a freewheel.

    Warning, if you've done some hard braking it'll take serious torque to get the ring off.
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  16. #16
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    I have a center-lock to 6 bolt disc adapter on mine.. , lets you use any 6 bolt disc.

    such as may be included with low cost cable disc brake, sets.

  17. #17
    ot.net slave
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    Quote Originally Posted by FBinNY View Post
    BTW- don't throw out a worn out disc. If you ever decide you need to remove the center-lock ring, mount the old disc to it and tighten the lockring Then mount some improvised U shaped piece of steel in a vise, slip the disc over it, and turn the wheel to the left to turn off the ring the same way you would to remove a freewheel.

    Warning, if you've done some hard braking it'll take serious torque to get the ring off.
    ?

    The centrelock splines have been a machined part of the hubshell on every shimano or DT hub I've ever seen.

    - Joel

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by tomacropod View Post
    ?

    The centrelock splines have been a machined part of the hubshell on every shimano or DT hub I've ever seen.

    - Joel
    That might be true, and I don't know either way. But if you look at the OPs photo the centerlock spline appears to be a threaded ring added to what would otherwise be a standard threaded road shell flipped left/right.
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  19. #19
    ot.net slave
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    The threading on the inside is for a lockring. The silver finish is because the CL mounts are machined after the anodising process (I guess).

    For those recommending a cassette lockring, it must be at least a 12t lockring, not an 11t as this won't have the diameter to engage with the serrations on the rotor.

    - Joel

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by tomacropod View Post
    The threading on the inside is for a lockring. The silver finish is because the CL mounts are machined after the anodising process (I guess).

    For those recommending a cassette lockring, it must be at least a 12t lockring, not an 11t as this won't have the diameter to engage with the serrations on the rotor.

    - Joel
    Thanks for the heads up.
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  21. #21
    Certified Bike Brat Burton's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tomacropod View Post
    The threading on the inside is for a lockring. The silver finish is because the CL mounts are machined after the anodising process (I guess).

    For those recommending a cassette lockring, it must be at least a 12t lockring, not an 11t as this won't have the diameter to engage with the serrations on the rotor.

    - Joel
    LOL Joel - that was me just being facetious to further confuse the issue! Those rings are included with the rotors and a complete description of the installation procedure is normally duplicated in documents included with hubs, rotors and brake assemblies. For some reason - most people just don't seem to want to read them.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by tomacropod View Post
    For those recommending a cassette lockring, it must be at least a 12t lockring, not an 11t as this won't have the diameter to engage with the serrations on the rotor.
    - Joel
    I (and my LBS mechanic) discovered this searching for a lockring tool. Luckily I took the wheel and tried them, some fit and some don't.
    I fit my tool in a bench vice and rotate the wheel, like a freewheel tool.

  23. #23
    biked well well biked's Avatar
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    I think the centerlock system for brake rotors is great. It's taken me a while to finally come to this realization, but it makes great sense. One small benefit I particularly like is that you can install a brake rotor in a few seconds, avoiding the tedious process of tightening six separate bolts.

  24. #24
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    My Front hub on my Bike Friday uses a center-lock disc, it allows easy removal, on case of travel packing,
    to pack the disc separate from the wheel so the disc stays flat.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by well biked View Post
    .....tedious process of tightening six separate bolts.
    6 hex cap screws is tedious?
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