Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1407 Post(s)
It could be that the grinding you hear is dirt in the ratchet mechanism itself. Also if you removed the body, and didn't put it tight enough, or if it was loose before you started, then the freehub's body/hub interface (the spines) suffered some wear. This is usually non-saveable because all the damage will be to the hub shell (analogous to aluminum crank/spindle play).
Once the body/shell connection has any play, chain tension will deflect it, making it worse. Some times (55/50) you can save it with some filler and a very tight nut, but it depends on how long you were riding it loose.
I'd start fresh, pull the body, give it a long soak, and some flushing in mineral solvent, shake it dry and oil it with a sticky oil like Phil's or Chain-L.
Check the shell for signs of wear, and also look for rub marks on the axle about where the nut would line up -- sure signs of riding with a loose FH body. If the shell looks OK, reassemble and rebuild as before, using clean grease for the bearings, (if yours have retainers be sure to out them in right side up). Before assembling the axle tighten the right cone and locknut against each other as tight as you can using 6-8" wrenches (you can't strip it, so don't go easy).
Finish by making cone adjustment from the left, and checking for zero play when in the frame, with QR tight.
If your hub shell splines are damaged, you might save it with a swelling grade of Loc-tite. (Read and follow directions)
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
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