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Old 12-29-12, 12:58 AM   #1
GT4
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Dura-Ace HB-7600 hub bearing upgrades

I recently bought an Open Pro wheelset with Dura-Ace HB-7600 hubs for $275 (steal right?). They seemed pretty smooth at first, but when I got home, I noticed there were some problems in the hubs. When the rear wheel was spun, it ran smooth, but I can hear very subtle "cracking" sounds. When I spin the front wheel, it just doesn't want to spin at all and feels like there is a lot of dirt inside. I think it would be appropriate to upgrade both front and rear bearings, but before I do that, I want to clean out the internals to see if it makes a big difference. Are there any tips/videos on disassembling these hubs? What sealed bearings can I use instead of the unsealed bearings that come stock, if any?

http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/te...9830672571.pdf
http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/te...9830672572.pdf
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Old 12-29-12, 01:14 AM   #2
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I dunno about videos but those are really nice and simple hubs. As long as they're not pitted a simple overhaul should make them awesome. New balls, new grease. Clean em good before you put new stuff in them.
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Old 12-29-12, 01:14 AM   #3
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Just service them.
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Old 12-29-12, 01:23 AM   #4
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I dunno about videos but those are really nice and simple hubs. As long as they're not pitted a simple overhaul should make them awesome. New balls, new grease. Clean em good before you put new stuff in them.
What if they are pitted? Can I still revive the hubs?
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Old 12-29-12, 01:28 AM   #5
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LNzN9oTQA8s

oh
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Old 12-29-12, 03:07 AM   #6
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What if they are pitted? Can I still revive the hubs?
I believe they are dead at that point.
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Old 12-29-12, 03:20 AM   #7
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What if they are pitted? Can I still revive the hubs?
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I believe they are dead at that point.

Any shonky bike shop will sell you square bearings to go in pitted hubs
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Old 12-29-12, 08:36 AM   #8
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Just service them.
You gotta start here. The front might not spin just because the cones are too tight.
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Old 12-29-12, 11:23 AM   #9
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This topic really did not a new thread since you bumped that other one. I gave you a fair answer to start you on your quest for knowledge but it doesnt look like you got very far.

HOW TO OVERHAUL YOUR HUBS
HOW TO ADJUST YOUR HUBS

In the end, this is more suited for the mechanics forum.

Last edited by hairnet; 12-29-12 at 01:30 PM.
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Old 12-29-12, 11:52 AM   #10
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What sealed bearings can I use instead of the unsealed bearings that come stock, if any?
I presume when you say "sealed bearings" you mean cartridge bearings like these? Many hubs have cup-and-cone bearings that are "sealed", so the term is misleading

If so, there's no point upgrading your hubs. The damn things are Dura-Ace - Shimano would have used cartridge bearings if they were better.
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Old 12-29-12, 12:11 PM   #11
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Shimano would have used cartridge bearings if they were better.
Awesome logic is awesome.
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Old 12-29-12, 12:45 PM   #12
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It it is NOT on Sheldon Brown's Site, or Park's Site....then you had better take it to a bike shop! :-)
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Old 12-29-12, 01:20 PM   #13
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Thing is for The Keirin racing in Japan , all the bikes have to be NJS regulation equal..
because they Bet on the race outcome, there.

so with all the bikes meeting the same specifications, it's about the rider..

if this is a street fixie use, not velodrome racing ,
you should look for another hub to get the sealed bearing cartridge.

Phil does sealed bearing hubs well as will Paul., both US manufacturers.

Last edited by fietsbob; 12-29-12 at 01:25 PM.
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Old 12-29-12, 03:03 PM   #14
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Servicing cup-and-cone bearings is fun and rewarding if you give it a chance.
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Old 12-29-12, 04:00 PM   #15
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There is no "upgrade" to do, just a simple routine overhaul. New balls and fresh grease. I suppose you could waste money on ceramic balls if you wanted to..

If the cones are bad you can replace them. If the cups are bad you can try polishing them but you're pretty much SOL in that case.
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Old 12-29-12, 04:11 PM   #16
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Quote:
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if this is a street fixie use, not velodrome racing ,
you should look for another hub to get the sealed bearing cartridge.

Phil does sealed bearing hubs well as will Paul., both US manufacturers.
Well, let's see, the OP already has complete wheels with excellent hubs that just need a cleaning and overhaul to work very well and you are recommending he spend twice as much just for a pair of hubs as he did for the entire wheel set plus the cost of having the wheels rebuilt around them. Certainly makes sense.
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Old 12-29-12, 06:59 PM   #17
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You gotta start here. The front might not spin just because the cones are too tight.
Yup. You were right.


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In the end, this is more suited for the mechanics forum.
Point taken

-----------------


So I regreased both hubs, adjusted the cones and bot wheels are now spinning somewhat smoothly. Thankfully the races aren't pitted. I think if I want them to get any better, I would have to use new balls. If I keep the old balls in the hubs, what will happen if I ride them as a commuter in good weather condition? Will the races eventually become permanently damaged?
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Old 12-29-12, 09:58 PM   #18
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Yup. You were right.




Point taken

-----------------


So I regreased both hubs, adjusted the cones and bot wheels are now spinning somewhat smoothly. Thankfully the races aren't pitted. I think if I want them to get any better, I would have to use new balls. If I keep the old balls in the hubs, what will happen if I ride them as a commuter in good weather condition? Will the races eventually become permanently damaged?
If the old balls are questionable, just buy new ones. They're really cheap and will prevent permanent (and expensive) damage.
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Old 12-30-12, 08:24 AM   #19
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"I think if I want them to get any better, I would have to use new balls."

Balls are so cheap that I just routinely replace them when I open a hub. Removing, cleaning and inspecting them is not worth (to me) the few pennies it costs for new ones.

Ball bearings are so efficient that the gain from replacing steel with ceramic is probably imperceptible; the only noticeable change is the hole in your wallet.
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Old 12-30-12, 11:44 AM   #20
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Quote:
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"I think if I want them to get any better, I would have to use new balls."

Balls are so cheap that I just routinely replace them when I open a hub. Removing, cleaning and inspecting them is not worth (to me) the few pennies it costs for new ones.

Ball bearings are so efficient that the gain from replacing steel with ceramic is probably imperceptible; the only noticeable change is the hole in your wallet.
If the balls still have their finish then they are reusable. They only need replacing when the shine has dulled. For our usage bronze bushings would be more than adequate. A bike wheel spins at 670rpm at 60mph.
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Old 12-30-12, 12:14 PM   #21
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If used on a track, for racing, no sealed bearings are needed, used on the street, was not a design criteria,
Q was about seals, and upgrading ,

just cleaning and replacing balls every spring, will do fine..


But, upgrading a Dura Ace track hub was a, rather, naive question, when application was 'off label' ..

[my assumption, given the Fixie on the street thing is so trendy now ]

Last edited by fietsbob; 12-30-12 at 12:21 PM.
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Old 12-30-12, 12:26 PM   #22
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".........Balls are so cheap that I just routinely replace them when I open a hub. Removing, cleaning and inspecting them is not worth (to me) the few pennies it costs for new ones............
+1
Having 'old" eyes, it's just not worth dealing with a solvent & dirty grease, just to inspect them and hope I didn't miss a flaw.
Dump the old bearings, wipe out the old grease with a paper towel/rag.
New grease & bearings makes cleaning your hands so much easier.
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Old 12-30-12, 12:49 PM   #23
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New grease & bearings makes cleaning your hands so much easier.
As does wearing nitrile or surgical gloves.
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