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Old 12-29-12, 10:14 PM   #1
hapul
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Cassette stuck to Freehub?

Hey guys. I'm looking to change my Shimano 9-speed road cassette mounted to Reynolds EA50 wheels and am having trouble. I've used the removal tool and chainwhip to loosen it all and that's seemed to work fine. The smallest two cogs pull off as expected although when I go to pull the rest of the cassette off the freehub, it won't move. I've tried removing a nut from the end of the axle and can remove the entire freehub exposing the pawls, although still can't get the cassette taken off. Any reason why this might be?

Cheers, and apologies if this is a repost. Tried the search function, but might just be using the wrong terms...
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Old 12-29-12, 11:19 PM   #2
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The splines probably dug into the freehub body.
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Old 12-30-12, 12:08 AM   #3
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+1

Aluminum freehub body? Must be. Aluminum is not hard enough to use the standard Shimano spline pattern, that's why Shimano only uses steel or Ti (except for those short lived tall-spline DA and Ultegra freehubs..) Some manufacturers try to save weight and cost by using an aluminum freehub body but that's a bad idea because you'll end up with the problem you have now.

With properly applied force you might be able to get the cassette off.
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Old 12-30-12, 12:18 AM   #4
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Sounds like you guys are spot on. Managed to get the cassette off the freehub with a bit of force - Figured if it breaks it's no less useful than it is with an old cassette stuck to it. Seems there are little dents all along the splines of the freehub. Might see if I can get it replaced before sticking the new cassette on. Thanks so much for the quick response - owe you one!
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Old 12-30-12, 12:53 AM   #5
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If you get a cassette that has a block of gears on a spider (instead of the individual cogs) you might be able to continue using your current freehub body.

If you get a new freehub body and use the same cassette, it will dig in the same way.
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Old 12-30-12, 01:16 AM   #6
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If you get a cassette that has a block of gears on a spider (instead of the individual cogs) you might be able to continue using your current freehub body.

If you get a new freehub body and use the same cassette, it will dig in the same way.
not if the new freehub body is made from harder material....
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Old 12-30-12, 01:30 AM   #7
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Believe it or not the use of carpenter staples as thin shims between the the cogs and aluminum freehub body has been a well known fix since aluminum freehub bodies became popular. Here is a site that spells it all out http://weightweenies.starbike.com/fo...hp?f=1&t=54146. I used these on about a dozen hubs with aluminum bodies and they work like a charm.
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Old 12-30-12, 02:37 AM   #8
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What also really helps is to torque the lockring down to the specs Shimano recommends. This generates sufficient clamping force that the resultant friction holds all the cogs & spacers together as a single block. The torque on an single-cog is distributed between them all and all the splines. Most people only clamp the lockring down enough, 1-2 clicks to prevent lateral movement of the cogs, but that's only about 20-30% of the actual torque needed.
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Old 12-30-12, 01:24 PM   #9
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Interesting thread, about what torque SHOULD a Shimano Hub go to? I just pulled off the cassette off my "New" 2002 Felt-85 for the first time (just got it a year ago) and finally got the tools for the cassette, all of my other "Fleet" bikes are C&V, which means Freewheels. It came off fine once I had the whip and lockring tool, first few rings came off easy, then the rest of them as one, riveted together cog. It came off easy as well, no sticking or dimpling of the aluminum hub splines. I guess that means it is a lower end Shimano cassette, but the benefit is that the whole assembly shares the load instead of one gear at a time.
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Old 12-30-12, 01:31 PM   #10
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If you simply dress off the raised burrs with a file, you can continue to use the freehub body. The digging in process is somewhat self limiting, so You're probably over the hump on that score if you tighten the lockring to spec.

Worst case scenario is they dig in a bit more, as they would on a new body. To remove, hold any sprocket with a chain whip and tap each back (counter clockwise) to unjam it and slide it off.
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Old 12-30-12, 01:40 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by RubberLegs View Post
Interesting thread, about what torque SHOULD a Shimano Hub go to? I just pulled off the cassette off my "New" 2002 Felt-85 for the first time (just got it a year ago) and finally got the tools for the cassette, all of my other "Fleet" bikes are C&V, which means Freewheels. It came off fine once I had the whip and lockring tool, first few rings came off easy, then the rest of them as one, riveted together cog. It came off easy as well, no sticking or dimpling of the aluminum hub splines. I guess that means it is a lower end Shimano cassette, but the benefit is that the whole assembly shares the load instead of one gear at a time.
40 newton-meters is the spec I've always seen, ymmv.
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Old 12-30-12, 01:47 PM   #12
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40 newton-meters is the spec I've always seen, ymmv.
AKA 30 foot pounds for those of us still on imperial measure.
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Old 12-30-12, 01:48 PM   #13
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40 newton-meters is the spec I've always seen, printed on the lockrings.
ftfy...

I've had luck removing stuck cogs by using a screwdriver and hammer to tap them free one at a time. Usually, I'll just file down anything sticking up from the original OD of the freehub.
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Old 12-30-12, 02:59 PM   #14
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ftfy...

I've had luck removing stuck cogs by using a screwdriver and hammer to tap them free one at a time. Usually, I'll just file down anything sticking up from the original OD of the freehub.
Sorry, fixed what?
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