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Old 12-31-12, 12:48 PM   #1
windhchaser 
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is the b screw adjustment very importtant?

on a sram x4 because the screw slips by the grove its supposed to rest against on my bike i can see where it wore a grove .so if i try to get the cogs closer to my rd pulley it wont work close i can get is like 14 mm

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Old 12-31-12, 12:52 PM   #2
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this is a pic of another rd not mine but the part i circled is worn so the screw just keeps going never resting on the part i have circled

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Old 12-31-12, 12:58 PM   #3
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I have flipped the screw over, then the Head is wide enough to hit the frame stop.
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Old 12-31-12, 01:03 PM   #4
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right now i hot glued a small pice of plastic between the screw and rest
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Old 12-31-12, 01:14 PM   #5
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IDK if it is, or even what all that meant, but I do know that spelling is important.
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Old 12-31-12, 01:32 PM   #6
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Either the glued on insert, or flipping the screw over will work.

But I'm curious, why is the screw turned down all the way? It's rare that the RD needs to be pushed down that far, and as you bring the screw back, it'll come in radially and get a better purchase on the stop.

Otherwise, ir the Jerry rigged fixes don't work for you, bring the frame to someone who can weld a small amount of filler behind the stop, which you'll file to shape afterward. This is an easy and permanent fix for the problem. (but as I said, first confirm that you do have a problem)
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Old 12-31-12, 02:38 PM   #7
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For a semi-permanent sort-of-fix, you might try building up the worn spot using some epoxy like JB Weld. Build a small form for it from some cardboard and then file it down to the appropriate level when it's fully cured.
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Old 12-31-12, 03:59 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mulveyr View Post
For a semi-permanent sort-of-fix, you might try building up the worn spot using some epoxy like JB Weld. Build a small form for it from some cardboard and then file it down to the appropriate level when it's fully cured.
Be very careful filing epoxy - the dust from many of them is carcinogenic. This from the JB Weld Material Safety Data Sheet:

High concentrations of pigment-grade (powdered) and ultrafine titanium dioxide
(titanium oxide) dust have caused respiratory tract cancer in rats exposed by inhalation
and intratracheal instillation. Product is a non respirable form.

Note that the dust from product is respirable when you grind or file it.

Do it outside, with a dust mask. Wash down the work afterwards. Or - perhaps don't do it at all.

Just so's you know anyhow.
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Old 01-01-13, 10:13 PM   #9
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Is this on your new bike??
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Old 01-01-13, 10:46 PM   #10
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Since the Felt Nine Flow comes with a SRAM X4 I'm thinking this your new bike. If so it should be a warranty issue. Otherwise your frame has a replaceable derailleur hanger, which means you can remove the piece that the deralleur attaches to and replace it with a new one where the B tab has not been worn away. http://www.feltbicycles.com/USA/2013...ur-Hanger.aspx
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Old 01-01-13, 10:50 PM   #11
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yeah it is my new bike .i forgot about the warranty
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Old 01-02-13, 03:45 AM   #12
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To answer the original question: yes I think it's important. My shimano XT rear derailer on a new bike had rather ponderous shifts until I adjusted this properly. Bringing the derailer 10-15mm closer than it was has made the shifts a lot more positive.
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Old 01-02-13, 03:56 AM   #13
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All this and you have a replaceable hanger which may be under warranty? Replace the hanger, either free or buy depending on circumstances. Then prevent a recurrence, by pulling the RD down off the stop when adjusting the screw. This will prevent wear and grooving on the hanger's stop tab.
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Old 01-02-13, 07:58 AM   #14
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The "b" screw is one of the most misunderstood adjustments on the bike. It is to be adjusted so that the jockey wheel (the upper one on the RD) misses the largest sprocket on the rear cluster by a specific measurement. On my Sram 7 the clearance is listed at 6mm when the jockey wheel is in alignment with the large sprocket. This clearance is best measured with the chain off. BTW that clearence is easily measured with a 6mm wrench.
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Old 01-02-13, 09:56 AM   #15
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Is SRAM different than Shimano?
Shouldn't the OP be BACKING out the screw to get the guide pulley closer?

Which cog & ring?
Shimano says the largest cog & smallest ring and then check against smallest cog to make sure there isn't interference.
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Old 01-02-13, 10:01 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Kapaun View Post
Is SRAM different than Shimano?
Shouldn't the OP be BACKING out the screw to get the guide pulley closer?
No,
Yes.
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Old 01-02-13, 10:10 AM   #17
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The "b" screw is one of the most misunderstood adjustments on the bike. It is to be adjusted so that the jockey wheel (the upper one on the RD) misses the largest sprocket on the rear cluster by a specific measurement. .
+1
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Old 01-02-13, 10:54 AM   #18
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yeah it wont slip in to the groove to i let the screw out when i screw the screw in it must change the angle because it dont go in grove but im like1/2 inch of clearance then
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Old 01-02-13, 11:02 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by windhchaser View Post
yeah it wont slip in to the groove to i let the screw out when i screw the screw in it must change the angle because it dont go in grove but im like1/2 inch of clearance then
Really no idea what you just said there?

Have you tried backing out the screw and actually running through a few gear changes to let things "settle out"?
The position/distance will probably change.
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Old 01-02-13, 11:04 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by windhchaser View Post
yeah it wont slip in to the groove to i let the screw out when i screw the screw in it must change the angle because it dont go in grove but im like1/2 inch of clearance then
OK, that's pretty much completely unparsable...
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Old 01-02-13, 11:23 AM   #21
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i stink at making my self clear. but ty for all the help everyone think ill just order a new hanger..are all hangers universal? or do i need a certain type? for my bike?
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Old 01-02-13, 11:45 AM   #22
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hangars are bicycle brand and model line specific. there's probably 35 or 40 different ones.

there's a couple websites that sell just about any hanger made.
http://www.derailleurhanger.com/
http://wheelsmfg.com/products/derailleur-hangers.html

etc etc.
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Old 01-02-13, 12:14 PM   #23
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wow there sure is a lot of them glad i asked.
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Old 01-02-13, 12:23 PM   #24
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also, old school steel frames. especially the better ones, the hangar was part of the dropout casting, and not replacable. the one in your picture is of this sort. but those were forged steel and tended to not fail.
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Old 01-02-13, 12:26 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xlDooM View Post
To answer the original question: yes I think it's important. My shimano XT rear derailer on a new bike had rather ponderous shifts until I adjusted this properly. Bringing the derailer 10-15mm closer than it was has made the shifts a lot more positive.
+1. I usually turn it out untill the RD hangs up on the low gear cog then turn it in a touch so it doesnt hang up. Most mechanics have no clue as to properly adjusting the B screw.
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