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How to remove single speed freewheel with no peg support?

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How to remove single speed freewheel with no peg support?

Old 01-05-13, 04:12 PM
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How to remove single speed freewheel with no peg support?

Hi guys

I've been coming to this board for a while now, mainly to this section.
Great place you've here.

I want to upgrade the freewheel on my sigle speed bike,
but the one i have is one of those cheap chinese ones,
so it doesn't have the holes to insert an extractor.

Any idea on how i can remove this?



p.s. - Search gave me 40 pages of threads, sorry if this has been asked before (probably has)!

Thanks
Miguel
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Old 01-05-13, 04:21 PM
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Turn it over I suspect the removing part is on the other side. If your bike looks like that someone before you put it the freewheel on backwards. Roger
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Old 01-05-13, 04:26 PM
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I don't know of a way other than disassembling the freewheel. Use a strong drift punch or a junk screwdriver whose tip can fit into the two holes. You need to work clockwise, as it is a reverse/left-hand thread. A few whacks on each hole should loosen it so that you can remove the top piece. Make sure you have something underneath to catch the tiny ball bearings. Take out the pawls and springs and then clamp the remainder of the derailleur body in a vise, grab the rim and turn counter-clockwise.
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Old 01-05-13, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by AmdM
...I want to upgrade the freewheel on my sigle speed bike,
but the one i have is one of those cheap chinese ones,
so it doesn't have the holes to insert an extractor.

Any idea on how i can remove this?

aren''t those two holes at 3 and 9 o'clock for the removal tool?
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Old 01-05-13, 04:35 PM
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May have to destroy it to remve it. Here are instructions from the Park Tool web site.
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...uctive-removal
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Old 01-05-13, 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by pierce
aren''t those two holes at 3 and 9 o'clock for the removal tool?
Nope, those unscrew the outer bearing cone of the freewheel.

I've seen these cheap freewheels before, they genuinely don't have notches for a removal tool!

I remove them as per the Park Tools link above.
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Old 01-05-13, 05:03 PM
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Hey thanks for all the reply's

That park tool link seems gold, gonna give it a try.
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Old 01-05-13, 06:52 PM
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i don't doubt those who predict a destructive removal on that freewheel, but it boggles the mind to assume an even irresponsible engineer would design such a thing. the only that comes quickly to mind is that the bikes those freewheels (bmx most likely) were likely to be mounted on were, in turn, disposable. and then again if the freewheel wheel is cheap enough, tt makes no difference if it destroyed on removal, i guess.
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Old 01-05-13, 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by hueyhoolihan
i don't doubt those who predict a destructive removal on that freewheel, but it boggles the mind to assume an even irresponsible engineer would design such a thing. the only that comes quickly to mind is that the bikes those freewheels (bmx most likely) were likely to be mounted on were, in turn, disposable. and then again if the freewheel wheel is cheap enough, tt makes no difference if it destroyed on removal, i guess.
its a $10 (retail) chinese freewheel, aimed mostly at the disposable BMX bike market.
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Old 01-05-13, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by pierce
aren''t those two holes at 3 and 9 o'clock for the removal tool?
Not on These they just take the freewheel apart as said above you need to desable the freewheel and remove it destructo style.
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Old 01-05-13, 10:01 PM
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Last time I had to deal with one of those at work; I just used a dremel to grind removal notches into it. Then proceed as normal.
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Old 01-05-13, 10:36 PM
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Originally Posted by pierce
its a $10 (retail) chinese freewheel, aimed mostly at the disposable BMX bike market.
The freewheel itself is proof bikes are being manufactured that are literally disposable.
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Old 01-05-13, 11:04 PM
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The assumption is that these freewheels will outlast the wheel and never need service.

There are 2 alternatives for removal, neither of which is practical. You can use a punch and drive off the cover, disassemble the freewheel and then use a pipe wrench, band wrench or vise to remove the inner body. That means you'll have to rebuild it, but then again, didn't you want to service it anyway?

Or you can use a large vise across the sprockets, applying enough pressure to ovalize the outer body and jam the freewheel. Then the wheel turns to the left to remove it. (wear protective glasses, sometimes the bodies shatter)
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Old 01-06-13, 06:29 AM
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Originally Posted by pierce
its a $10 (retail) chinese freewheel, aimed mostly at the disposable BMX bike market.
Actually here in Lisbon, these are bought for under 2€ (about 2,5$).
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Old 01-06-13, 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by rhenning
Turn it over I suspect the removing part is on the other side. If your bike looks like that someone before you put it the freewheel on backwards. Roger
You can indeed thread a freewheel on backwards on the hub. But since it would "freewheel" while pedaling, one would reverse it immediately. So... if the bike pedals normally, it ain't on backwards.
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Old 01-06-13, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by reddog3
You can indeed thread a freewheel on backwards on the hub. But since it would "freewheel" while pedaling, one would reverse it immediately. So... if the bike pedals normally, it ain't on backwards.
Well, screwing it on in the first place would be tricky since it would freewheel in your hand rather than thread on the hub. Besides, the cone ring is visible in the photo, so I think it's safe to assume it was not on backwards.
I have run into these in the past as well. My destructive removal technique is to tack a few welds around it between the cog and body.
(It's important to hook the ground to the cog, you don't want the current flowing through the bearing.)
Once welded into a solid lump, a chainwhip will take it off.
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Old 01-06-13, 11:38 AM
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Speaking as one who just recently experienced the awesome power of using thermal expansion to remove and install cartridge bearings into some hubs, (aluminum hub, steel bearings, so torch the hub and freeze the bearings) I'd just like to remind you that you can sometimes make these things shockingly easier by heating/cooling the appropriate bits before you get around to pouring on the elbow grease.

Assuming an aluminum hub and some abundant freezer space, I dremel some good, square grooves into the freewheel to hold your punch, then freeze the hub for a half hour and torch the free wheel until it is just about too hot to touch.

I swear, it made pulling and pressing those cartridge bearings a real pleasure; hopefully, it could help you.
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Old 01-06-13, 11:42 AM
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its a $10 (retail) chinese freewheel, aimed mostly at the disposable BMX bike market.
think that is a guess/assumption .. how many have you seen and assembled like that?

not an intentional "aimed" part.. where I have seen them in the Build Carton kit for
3 wheel 1 speed Upright bikes. without a coaster brake. (brake is on the fork in front.)

Freewheels made for putting on adult Trikes that I have seen , don't have a removal notch.
they screw onto a piece that fits onto the part, that has a Keyway that engages
thru a piece of key stock, to a slot in the axle, to drive 1 wheel..
the whole assembly comes off but not apart, there-after.
since there are no spokes behind it it really does not need to be removed, separately.

If you have one of those , It is the Wrong Part for screwing directly onto a wheel.
return/exchange it for one that does have removal notches ,

or anticipate tearing it apart, to grab the core in a bench vise, and unscrewing the wheel,
after discarding the bearing balls and pawls..

Last edited by fietsbob; 01-06-13 at 12:08 PM.
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Old 01-06-13, 11:58 AM
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BTW by 'Upgrade' , consider White Industries Freewheels , for their superior bearings, seals,
and faster engaging Pawl designs for observed Trials and Polo riders..
though, they will set you back about $100.
https://www.whiteind.com/singlespeedg...reewheels.html

Last edited by fietsbob; 01-06-13 at 03:04 PM.
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Old 01-06-13, 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by fietsbob
BTW by 'Upgrade' , consider White Industries Freewheels , for their superior bearings, selals,
and faster engaging Pawl designs for observed Trials and Polo riders..
though, they will set you back about $100.
https://www.whiteind.com/singlespeedg...reewheels.html
Thanks m8.

Hopefully one day i can buy me some of those.
For now the sturmey archer ones will have to do the trick.
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Old 01-06-13, 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by hueyhoolihan
i don't doubt those who predict a destructive removal on that freewheel, but it boggles the mind to assume an even irresponsible engineer would design such a thing. the only that comes quickly to mind is that the bikes those freewheels (bmx most likely) were likely to be mounted on were, in turn, disposable. and then again if the freewheel wheel is cheap enough, tt makes no difference if it destroyed on removal, i guess.
Don't blame the engineers for what the bean-counting management tells them to design.

OP, if your gearing isn't quite what you want, you can always go to a bigger or smaller chainring, too. (Unless the crankset is a bargain basement part as well...)
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Old 01-06-13, 03:06 PM
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Just hope you wrote first and didn't already screw that on, Mig,
and tighten it up by riding the bike.. .
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Old 01-06-13, 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by fietsbob
Just hope you wrote first and didn't already screw that on, Mig,
and tighten it up by riding the bike.. .
I've that mounted for quite some time now.
Tomorrow gonna try to take it out using the method in that park tool link.
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Old 01-10-13, 10:55 AM
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I have managed to get those type of freewheels off a hub.
put a sharp edged drift, or flat screwdriver blade, into one of those 2 holes, then tap it round anti clockwise. This will get the freewheel to unscrew, and the freewheel wont come to bits. It could be reused too.
some freewheels are marked with an arrow, beside those 2 holes. thats the direction to remove the cone face bit. You drift it the other way to remove the complete freewheel
I used to work at a bike shop. I had to take freewheels off of newly unboxed BMX bike shaped objects, as the springs wouldnt engage the pawls in the ratchet grooves.
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Old 01-11-13, 10:14 AM
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If nothing else, I've gotten these off before by welding them 'fixed', then using a chain whip. If you have the equipment handy it's quick and easy.
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