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  1. #1
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    Removing FSA SL-K compact crankset

    hopefully this isnt too dumb of a question. i did go through the sticky and didn't find what i was looking for. maybe i'm looking for the wrong thing?

    i recently picked up a used supersix. I would like to get it stripped down to the frame to give it a good cleaning, especially behind the front chainrings. the bike has a FSA SL-K crank.

    i consider myself fairly mechanically inclined, i dont have an issue pulling the FD, RD, brakes, and reinstalling and adjusting back to be able to shift properly...but im not finding anything on how to remove this crank. again, maybe im searching for the wrong thing.

    on my old bike (2011 CAAD8), theres a tension bolt and a couple allen bolts to clamp the crank arm on. the SL-K crank isnt like that. im not sure if the tension bolt on this crank is actually holding everything together, and i can just pull that and pull the chain, FD, and non driveside arm off and the remove the crank, or is there more involved in this?

    thanks in advance, and hopefully i didnt overlook an easy answer

  2. #2
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    I've not done FSA cranks, but have done Sram and Shimano, and the only thing I can suggest is that when I did them, I found instructions on both manufacturers' web sites. Also the park tool site had instructions, I believe. Hope that helps.

  3. #3
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    I have FSA Gossemer cranks on our tandem. And I am just now going througt the same process. The FSA has a self extracting crank bolt. All I need is a 8mm allen wrench and out it comes!

  4. #4
    Certified Bike Brat Burton's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tandem Tom View Post
    I have FSA Gossemer cranks on our tandem. And I am just now going througt the same process. The FSA has a self extracting crank bolt. All I need is a 8mm allen wrench and out it comes!
    Exactly! Have an SL-K on the Specialized Roubaix and it is that easy. You'll probably need a rubber hammer and a wood block to push the axle through - but that's it.

  5. #5
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    i worked on a bike with bontrager, i think, crank that was like that. it had a cap with a 17mm allen in it and a bolt with a smaller allen that you backed out and pressed out the crank. no special remover was required. every time i tried to remove the crank the cap the lower bolt pressed against kept backing out so i put some grease on the bolt head then used a 17mm bolt head to tighten the cap. that solved my problem.

  6. #6
    Bianchi Goddess Bianchigirll's Avatar
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    Can you post some pics of the crank in question? rather than remove the cranks, you could remove the chainwheels to make the task of cleaning easier. Removal of the cranks just for cleaning is not usually recomended. If you don't get the properly tightened when reinstalling they can work loose creating problems.

    This crank? This does not look to have the self extractors like the other responders are talking about.

    Last edited by Bianchigirll; 01-12-13 at 09:21 AM.
    Bianchis '87 Sport SX, '90 Proto (2), '91 Boarala 'cross, '93 Project 3, '88 Trofeo, '86 Volpe, '89 Axis, '79 Mixte, '99 Mega Pro XL Ti, '97 Ti Megatube, , '90 something Vento 603,

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  7. #7
    Senior Member rdtompki's Avatar
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    I have SL-K Light cranks and they do indeed have self extractors. Takes but a minute to remove the cranks. You'll want a torque wrench for reassembly
    Rick T
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  8. #8
    S'Cruzer pierce's Avatar
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    those are 2-piece, aren't they? where the axle is permanently attached to the drive side crank?

    see http://www.fullspeedahead.com/storag...rankset_v1.pdf

    and http://www.fullspeedahead.com/storag...0091229_v1.pdf

  9. #9
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    I have the same crank, and yes it is self extracting from the left side. This assumes the extractor cap hasn't been lost, as mine was. I've had issues with keeping this crank bolt tight over the years, and one time it undid itself, and the self-extractor cap came undone itself. This has been an issue with these cranks. In fact, FSA changed the thread on the cap to be reverse thread so that they don't do that on later models.

    In any case it is as simple as already said, just undo the bolt with an 8mm Allen wrench against the cap and the left arm will come off. The right arm/chainrings is one piece with the axle. You may need to lightly tap it to get it free, taking the chain off the chainrings first makes it a lot easier. Also, watch out for the small parts, as with any disassembly. The bolt is marked with the proper torque to apply on reassembly.

    You'll need a pin spanner, a small one, to put the cap on tight, but I've decided that since I ordered a new bolt and cap that I'm leaving the cap in my toolbox for when I need it.

  10. #10
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    awesome! thanks for the responses everyone, and glad to see it wasnt any more difficult than i thought it was gonna be.

  11. #11
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    It's still nuts to take apart the bike just to clean it. Even the pro's don't do that. Just spray it down and hose it off. It's a crankset, it's going to get grease on it and dirt behind it after you ride it a little. Especially in winter.

    On the FSA crank I just installed there is a allen inside the bolt on the non drive side you need to remove. Then there are a couple pinch bolts. After that remove the left crank and tap the exposed crank spindle with a mallet or piece of wood and hammer or something arm to get it off. You can leave the front derailleur and chain on and still remove the crankset.

  12. #12
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    i know its not necessary, and i dont intend to go this route every time it gets dirty. ...but i also know a guy who coaches for USA Cycling and he said one of the main things they stress to people is keeping components and gear clean to stay in top functioning condition.

    the more i examine this bike, the dirtier i find these components to be, and what makes it crazier is this guy didnt have but maybe 400 miles on the bike and they are just caked in dirt all down in the components. im gonna try to get a lot of it disassembled while i have some down time with it and give it a serious once over.

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