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  1. #1
    Annoyed. Andy Somnifac's Avatar
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    Bearing removal - Mavic Ksyrium Elite rear hub

    I'm looking to overhaul my rear hub. It's developed quite a shriek at higher speeds (typically in the 28+ mph range) and it's awful. This is the 2nd wheel this has happened to, with the first being sent into Mavic and having them redo it for $80. They replaced the bearings and all was good, but if this is doable myself, I'll give it a go.

    I've sourced bearings, but having pulled the freehub off to get to the cartridge bearings. What's the most effective way to remove them? Once they are out, I figure I can fashion a reasonable bearing press from a couple appropriately sized washers, a couple nuts and some threaded rod.

    Thanks.
    Meh.

  2. #2
    biked well well biked's Avatar
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    Our experience with that problem is that replacing the freehub body solves it. The freehub bodies are available through Mavic dealers.

  3. #3
    Annoyed. Andy Somnifac's Avatar
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    That would certainly be even easier.
    Meh.

  4. #4
    biked well well biked's Avatar
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    I've only dealt with it a couple of times, but that shriek I think you're talking about is a crazy noise. I remember calling Mavic's tech dept and they were clearly very familiar with the phenomenom and sent us a freehub body, which solved it.

  5. #5
    Annoyed. Andy Somnifac's Avatar
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    I should be able to dig something up. I'll try the freehub first then. Thanks.
    Meh.

  6. #6
    Andrew R Stewart Andrew R Stewart's Avatar
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    We've had a few mavic wheels with what you call 'the shriek". Our understanding is that the plastic bushing on the freehub is worn and/or dry of lube. We've lubed with minerial oil for at least short term fix. Some are worn enough so the noise returns and for those we've replaced the FH body. Andy.

  7. #7
    Annoyed. Andy Somnifac's Avatar
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    I see rebuild kits on eBay that contain a new bearing, bushing, and seals. Example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/330853575296

    Think these are worth a damn?
    Meh.

  8. #8
    biked well well biked's Avatar
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    I don't know. If it were me I'd get a new Mavic freehub body, but that kit certainly appears to be designed to address your problem and the seller is legit.

  9. #9
    Annoyed. Andy Somnifac's Avatar
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    Looks worth a try. If it doesn't work out, then I guess a new freehub will be in my future.
    Meh.

  10. #10
    biked well well biked's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy Somnifac View Post
    Looks worth a try.
    For $16, you're probably right. Good luck....if you don't mind, let us know how it works out.

  11. #11
    Annoyed. Andy Somnifac's Avatar
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    Will do. Ordered a kit, and will report back with the results.
    Meh.

  12. #12
    Annoyed. Andy Somnifac's Avatar
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    Kit came in today and it seems to have everything. Instructions that come with it seem to be pretty good too.

    Hope to get it installed tonight.
    Meh.

  13. #13
    ot.net slave
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    The bearings in Mavic hubs typically last much longer than the bearings in other hubs. It's the freehub bushing which causes problems. It needs to be cleaned and lubed regularly. If the freehub body has play when the hub is assembled, the bushing needs replacing. If there is not much play, it should just be cleaned and lubed. I used Phil Tenacious oil on the pawls and light grease on the bushing. Mavic doesn't sell the bushing separately, they sell the whole freehub which is a waste of money and material. The bushings can be sourced aftermarket on eBay. We have a local supplier of the bushings here in Australia which we use. You can also get oversized bushings if the aluminium bushing run in the hubshell has been worn down.

    Joel

  14. #14
    Annoyed. Andy Somnifac's Avatar
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    Installed the bushing last night. Installation was easy enough. Left the bearing be, as I could feel no play in it. Reassembled everything, and there's no play that I can feel once the cassette is installed. Hope to give it a ride this weekend to see if the howl is gone.
    Meh.

  15. #15
    Sprinter linus's Avatar
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    +1 on the bushing.

  16. #16
    Senior Member Jed19's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy Somnifac View Post
    Installed the bushing last night. Installation was easy enough. Left the bearing be, as I could feel no play in it. Reassembled everything, and there's no play that I can feel once the cassette is installed. Hope to give it a ride this weekend to see if the howl is gone.
    Please report back as to how good this solution worked.
    Regards,

    Jed

  17. #17
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  18. #18
    Annoyed. Andy Somnifac's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jed19 View Post
    Please report back as to how good this solution worked.
    First chance to ride the cx bike was last night (been on the trainer lots, ugh) and everything seemed OK. No abnormal sounds, everything felt OK.

    So, if you're experiencing an awful sound from your Mavic freehub, this kit looks like it might really do the trick.
    Meh.

  19. #19
    Senior Member Jed19's Avatar
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    ^Thanks.
    Regards,

    Jed

  20. #20
    bike whisperer Kimmo's Avatar
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    Let me get this straight...

    A wheelset from a respected big name like Mavic, the model name containing the word 'Elite' no less, employs a goddamn bushing instead of a proper bearing.

    Oookay then. So Mavic actually blows chunks.

  21. #21
    Senior Member Werkin's Avatar
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    According to Mavic, as stated by Lennard Zinn, "The bushing on the inboard interior end of the freehub body...is actually far superior to a bearing...it can withstand almost a ton of load without distorting, whereas a bearing can be damaged with a 300 kg load applied to it. Itís 40 grams lighter than a bearing, and when freewheeling, there is no load on the bushing and hence no friction..."

    Keep in mind internal combustion engines have plain bearings, not roller bearings, on the connecting rod ends, and for the main journals.

    When servicing a Mavic freehub, if the pawls aren't two piece with a red nylon tab, replace them with the FTS-X pawls 32430301. Softer all metal pawls are a source of abrasive as they wear, the FTS-X pawls are made of hardened steel which produces less grit. I serviced two hubs recently, both had worn pawls, with slivers of metal they sloughed off caught between the bushing and spindle, which wore grooves in the surface. The pawl edges were rounded off where they made contact with the gear teeth.

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