bicicle

Hi,

This is my first post. Im relatively new to working on my own bike.

I have a 2004 Trek mt bike. I would like to replace the fork with an inexpensive rigid fork. The cheapest forks I can find on amazon are threaded, and threaded headsets are also cheap. What do I need to look for to find a threaded headset to install on my bike?

I suppose I would need to find a new stem also.

Also, would it be possible to use a threaded fork with a threadless stem, and just clamp the stem around the threads? It seems like that would work if the OD at the threads is 1.125".

I ride my bike to and from school, so I dont put much abuse into it, and it would be nice to get rid of the heavy suspension fork.

Im also considering just getting a new bike. I have looked at the races in the hub on my front wheel and noticed some pitting. I also failed to change a brake pad on my rear wheel, being a numbskull ignored the squealing until I realized I was ruining my rims. It is scored .5 mm, but I still ride it and the rim hasnt collapsed yet :/

Would it be better to just buy a new bike? It seems like in the long run the tools and parts would come out costing just as much as buying a new bike from my LBS.

Thanks!

jimc101

Going threaded, need a correctly measured fork for the threads, a new threadset and stem at a minimum, getting a 1 1/8th" threadset could be an issue, as there is limited availability of these compared to threadless, the easiest option would just be to get a threadless fork, get the starfangled nut install, crownrace swapped, and your away.

For the wheels, one the races are pitted, it's easiest to replace with new, for the scoring on the rim, .5mm isn't that much, get it checked out by your LBS, see what they say, but should be fine.

For replacement, do the math, cost of replacement parts vs a new bike.

LesterOfPuppets

I scored a new rigid 1-1/8" threadless Tange a little while ago for $60.

What fork is currently on the bike? If you want to keep disc brakes (assuming that's what's on ATM) then it seems like threaded w/ disc tabs would be kinda hard to find.

You need to look for proper axle to crown distance also.

Sometimes crown race diameter problems also occur.

Andrew R Stewart 

Don't clamp the threadless stem around the threaded fork's threads, unless you want to thin the herd so to speak. Andy.

bicicle

Its a rock shox pilot c. I dont have disk brakes. The forks Im looking at on amazon are around 20 bucks from Niagra Cycle Works.

bicicle

Haha, OK.

likebike23

there are 1 1/8 inch threadless forks that can be had for under $50. https://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product...28_-1___202440 and https://www.amazon.com/Pyramid-Fork-T...2F8+rigid+fork. if you go this route, you don't need a new headset or stem, you can use the ones you've got already. you would need to transfer the crown race from your rockshox and would need a new star nut for inside the new fork's steerer, your LBS can put that in for cheap. if you're planning on doing the work yourself, it's much easier this way, and probably cheaper in the end.

Bianchigirll 

Is that $20 fork ChroMoly or Hitensile steel? I think after you buy a $20 threaded fork, a new HS and Stem then getting someone to cut the fork (hopefuly not too short) you may as well pay $60 for a threadless.


As LesterofPuppets say make sure the "axle to crown height" is correct. Any replacement for must be described as "Suspension corrected".

LesterOfPuppets

That Nashbar has a pretty big ATC (453mm). If that's an 80mm Pilot then Geo will slacken considerably. If 100mm Pilot then it might not be too bad.

bicicle

what do you mean by geometry will slacken? Is the ATC the distance from center of axle to where exactly on the crown of the fork?

Thanks for the all the replies

xenologer

changing to a threaded fork and headset is a Downgrade.
plus you end up having to buy a new stem and headset; which is going to cancel out any savings of threaded forks being cheaper.

Just get this:
https://www.amazon.com/Surly-1x1-Fork...026473-6844752
note that this fork is Suspension Corrected; meaning it has extra length designed to account for the fact that your old suspension fork is longer than a standard rigid fork.
This is what you want, it is meant specifically for the conversion you are doing.
(i'm assuming you have v-brakes)

p.s., clamping a threadless stem onto the threads of a threaded fork is Very Dangerous. The leverage of the stem can crack the steer tube along the thinner cut threads, leading to death.

AlphaV

Getting a new stem and headset would indeed cancel out any savings you were hopping to get, even using a stem adaptor will set you back $10-20. You're also going to need to get the new headset pressed in, fork cut correctly and crown race installed. Depending on where you are, that's an additional $40-70 for the labour. You can buy the press, but it's an expensive tool that you will hardly ever use (if ever again)
Also, threaded forks aren't going to be suspension corrected, so you'll have a bike that isn't upright leaning forward. AKA you're geometry will be effed up.

dabac

IME, the headset tools, possibly apart from the crown race puller, are the easiest ones to improvise. Setting the cups in the head tube can be done very well with a length of threaded rod and some wide washers. A vise or a c-clamp are also possible, but require a bit more monitoring to make sure the cups go in aligned. For installing crown races I've only ever used an appropriately sized length of tube from a discarded vacuum cleaner nozzle.

But yeah, it make more sense for the OP to stay with a threadless setup.

fietsbob

Geometry .. fork tip to lower headset race seat is a distance a-b, one side of a triangle .
the apex of that triangle is the rear, axle ... c

Making the distance a to b less changes the head tube angle. higher, steeper.

pierce

dare I admit I used to install threaded headset races with a 2x4 and a rubber mallet?

Andrew R Stewart 

One of the advantages of being a small guy is that my bikes have short head tubes. When younger I installed more then one head set with a bench vice. Andy.

HillRider

You and many others. A lot didn't even use a mallet but a 3-pound steel hammer.

ksisler

[QUOTE=bicicle;15201812]Hi, This is my first post. Im relatively new to working on my own bike. I have a 2004 Trek mt bike. I would like to replace the fork with an inexpensive rigid fork. The cheapest forks I can find on amazon are threaded, and threaded headsets are also cheap. What do I need to look for to find a threaded headset to install on my bike? I suppose I would need to find a new stem also. Also, would it be possible to use a threaded fork with a threadless stem, and just clamp the stem around the threads? It seems like that would work if the OD at the threads is 1.125" [/Partial QUOTE].

Bicicle; While I love my time on Amazon... today it is time for you to look on ebay.
-- I have a hybrid favority bike that happens to be threaded. Last night I bought a replacement new painted threadless 700C chromoly fork with canti/v-brake studs and fender mounting eyelets for $40. There were many ads for them in both threadless and threaded types. If lost, search the bike parts section for Dimension 700C...

-- A threadless 1" headset cost about $18-29 depending on your blink needs.

-- A threadless 1" Stem cost about $18-89 depending on your blink needs. Or you could use a shim to fit a 1 1/8" stem. Both are available from either source.

- So you would be in for about $80 or so to make the move and you could probably sell the old parts on craigs for $25.

To your other question; It is easy to adapt a 1" threaded bike to use a 1 1/8" threadless stem (I did that and it works fine, but evenually wanted a perfect solution. In the same section on ebay they sell adapters in the $15 ranges. Also same on Amazon for about same price +/-. I don't know of any way to put a threaded stem on a threadless fork but not saying it couldn't be done.

fettsvenska 

+1...this is the best advice that I've seen on this thread.

fietsbob

I wouldnt do it , myself, But..
a threaded to threadless conversion quill plug would fit inside a threaded 1" ID 9/8" OD
fork and reinforce the cut threads as far down as the wedge on the quill.


as plan B is .. buy a Newbike , now that your needs have changed, I 'd
go with that choice.