SJX426 

Speaking for myself, I really don't like to modify an original anything that can't be restored back to the way it was originally. My stable is not nearly as big as yours nor does it have the same level of quality, but..... I was able to procure an 1983ish Colnago Superissimo in 2008. It shows its age in terms of scratches etc, but does not have any damage to the frame. Nearly every part was period correct with only a couple of exceptions. I thought about repaint and full restoration 'cause I like new. I have since decided the patina should be retained. I did some minor upgrades, 6 to 7 speed with a 28 max cog (HG design), the limit for the Super Record RD. I replaced the bars with same period or older Cinelli with less drop and used a "splash" tape. The saddle was not period correct so I replaced it with a 1973 Brooks Pro that was broken into my .... Since I never rode a STI road bike, friction shifting is all I know except for my MTB. Once you know where to put the lever, it works great. The am still using the Campy brake pads but will likely put KoolStops on soon. I enjoy this bike more than any other I have owned.
Thats it for my upgrade. Good enough for this 60+ year old.

BTW: just ran into the BG web site. Beautiful frames! I have always lusted for a custom frame from the likes of BG, Strawberry, Vanilla, Sachs......

e2rider

I did it to my 1980s beloved Limongi 2 months ago. Spread the rear drop outs from 126mm to 130mm by using a home-made spreading jig consisting of a threaded rod, washers and wing nuts. I mounted with greased washers between the wingnuts and the inside of dropouts and started turning. I would loosen and measure the spacing every time I got nervous. It was remarkable how far BEYOND 130mm I had to go.

I then replaced my trusty friction Simplex downtube shifters with cablestops (like these cablestops on ebay), replaced my Chorus derailleurs (it was time to retire the rear one anyways) and Croce d'Aune crankset with 10 speed Campy record (brifters and ultratorque crankset). Kept my seatpost and stem.

Been riding on the trainer since and feels fine. Can't wait to take it outside once the snow melts! The black carbon looks kinda funny with my 80s paint job but I'm getting it repainted anyways in the spring since it has some rust here and there. You can find vintage decals (including Columbus tubing ones) online.

One warning though. I just recently checked the rear alignment and found that one dropout is 1.5 mm further away from centreline than the other. Maybe it was like that before but I wonder if my spreading technique was to blame.

pierce

the Sheldon cold set method of using a 2x4 and doing the sides seperately, while checking with a string jig is about the only way to get it centered.

thirdgenbird

Pics?!

Six jours

One side will almost always be stronger than the other, which means that if you just spread the stays apart from each other you can usually count on most of the movement coming from just on side. IOW, your results are typical for your method. It's worth noting, of course, that a 2mm misalignment usually doesn't cause any trouble - it's actually within tolerance for many factory frames. Back when 130 was new, many of us racer types made the adjustment by removing the wheel, laying the bike on its side, standing on one dropout, and pulling the other out with our hands until the new wheel fit properly. I don't think I lost any races because of it, though we almost certainly weren't getting the alignment right.

Pierce, above, points out that if you want to maintain alignment you'll need to use the BB shell as a datum point. This method is a PITA because you have to remove the cranks and BB and find a suitably stable place to clamp the shell before pulling out each stay individually, but there you go.

pierce

actually, you can use the seat tube. masking tape a string around the head tube, and tie it back to the two rear dropouts. measure the distance from the string to the seat tube. if the seat tube is centered between the two string legs, your frame is about as true as it gets.

Six jours

Well, then I take back the part about what Pierce says.

I personally wouldn't use a tube as a base because bicycle tubes can sometimes be surprisingly fragile, and rear triangles surprisingly resistant to cold setting.

<edit> We may just have a semantics issue. Using the seat tube as a gauge, via the string method, is absolutely appropriate. Clamping the seat tube to use for leverage while you tug on the stays is a bad idea, IMO.

pierce

cold setting is something you should only ever THINK of doing to a steel frame.

steel frames tend to be pretty sturdy. but yeah, I was talking about using the seat tube as a reference point for measuring with the string

Kimmo 

If the right dropout is further from the centreline, you can call it intentional.

Just take some of the dish out of your wheel, and it'll be stronger for it. You'll have to be clever about checking it though, since flipping it will show you twice the difference.

CenturionIM

She Who Must Be Obeyed = your wife?

I think SWMBOOE is better. She Who Must Be Obeyed Or Else

bsektzer

Uhh, well, I'd prefer not to open the door on a discussion of what exactly might be entailed in "or Else"....

By way of update, the Campy Record 11 group set arrived last Saturday, much to my surprise considering it came from Ribble in the U.K. all the way out to the left coast in all of 4 days. Since I already had the ancillary pieces for the Wilier BB on hand, I set about re-building the Imperiale immediately and had the job done, including re-taping the bars by about 10:00 PM PST. It was BEAUTIFUL!!!

I took the bike out on Sunday for its maiden cruise with the new group on Sunday with my usual weekend group, and long story short, I know fully understand what Campy devotees are raving about. Just awesome...

Pix, and a more detailed review to follow...

pierce

"She who must be obeyed" was a line of Rumpole of the Bailey, a wonderful brit comedy of 20 or 30 years ago featuring a harried senior barrister, starring the droll Leo McKern as the title character..

bsektzer

Good to know there are a few of us whose memories span that length of time still around and riding...

BenVoiles

I just can't imagine that spreading the dropouts by 4 or 5 millimeters would compromise safety at all. In fact as several other posters have mentioned, you probably don't even need to. Another option might be to ride it as it is and upgrade it over time. Maybe see how much you could do on a set budget or just using used parts. You could probably go to 9-speed Dura Ace for a couple of hundred dollars, if you can use your present wheels and crank. Many people here know much more about then I do but it is an idea you might consider.

bsektzer

At this point, I've pretty well made up my mind to take the BG frame back to Bruce to have the rear stays set to accommodate a 130 mm hub and get the frame re-painted. Once that's done, the 2012 SRAM Group that came off the Wilier will go on the BG.

I've made the effort to fund a budget for this whole project that allows me to do things right the first time, so money isn't the limiting factor here. It's the difference between accepting the advice of the frame builder I trusted to make this bike in the first place vs. acting on anecdotes from folks (honorable as I'm sure they are) I don't know.