wtsgoodtime

I found a slightly used frameset that comes with a headset and fenders for $400. I haven't ever built a bike before and only recently started researching. The cheapest I have found a complete stock Surly LHT from this year is ~$1150 after tax.

If I built my own with mostly Shimano SLX components and a used frame @$400, it'd come out to ~$1500, buying most of the components off of amazon without doing significant shopping around. I briefly checked ebay and found a lot of sellers that have high shipping costs offsetting the "deal"... but I am sure given enough time I'd be able to find better. I am more keen on buying locally on craigslist.

Here is the build I am looking at:
https://amzn.com/w/2W3A021PUYYRB

Feel free to point out glaring problems. My main question right now: are the upgrades worth the cost difference?

As long as I am able to buy all of the correct and compatible parts up front, I am not concerned about the complexity of the build.

For comparison purposes, I recently bought a friend a used 2010 Surly LHT for $650. It has XTR hubs on dt-swiss rims, shimano st-4500 brifters, a good rear rack/light, but unfortunately it has been converted to 2*9 and the lowest gear is ~29 gear inches. I could keep searching for a deal like that and keep the stock purchase from the LBS in my back pocket.

Any advice is appreciated!

tromper

I must be missing something. If you're buying cantilever brakes why are you looking at disc hubs?

Beyond that my two bits would be that picking up the package deal isn't a bad way to start off. I've owned a stock one (non-disc) for a while, & I regret getting rid of it at times. I had no issues with the components. If you had a pile of parts sitting around, or wanted to see what you could put together off CL on the cheap for fun sure I'd go for it; however from a sheer economic standpoint buying it piecemeal vs. buying the complete bike in this case strikes me as the wrong way of doing things unless you have an ulterior motive. if you buy it from a respectable shop you should be out & riding ASAP, usually with a 30 day tuneup for when things settle in. Sometimes you need to grease the hubs a bit extra if the shop didn't do it for ya but that's typically about it.

As far as upgrades go. The stock components still look pretty durable (Universal Cycles link here), & should do fine, but you can always replace 'em as they wear out, or with some of the 350 bucks or so you save. You could even use part of that to buy a decent set of bike related tools if you don't have one yet.

Cheers
Tromper

cpach

The biggest glaring problem is the 10SP mountain derailleur. Shimano 10sp rear mountain derailleurs have different cable pull than earlier mountain bike derailleurs and 10sp road derailleurs. It will probably shift with the bar end shifter in friction mode, but you really should get a 9sp mountain bike derailleur so you can have the option of indexing. A 9sp derailleur WILL work with a 10sp road drivetrain, counterintuitively. Also you don't need disc hubs.

The most significant upgrade in your build is the saddle (a Brooks, at about $100, vs a $40 WTB SST). I actually find my SST nearly as comfortable as my brooks at half the weight, but if you think you're going to get a Brooks anyways that's a hundred on top of the stock build. The other item you'd very likely replace on the stock would be the tires, another, roughly, $100.

Your plan makes sense if you are willing to spend the time finding heavily discounted and/or used components, or if building up a frame sounds fun to you. Otherwise the price sounds similar with upgraded saddle/tires. The other stuff is a pretty minor deal IMO. If you have other 10sp stuff you can swap it around, but an additional cog really isn't such a big deal. 9sp will be cheaper to replace parts for and maybe be a little more durable.

Building up a bike is fun though, so if you're so moved, may as well do it. You can reduce a lot of the work by buying constructed wheels. Also, this process is a lot easier if you already have access to tools, either your own, a friend's, or through a bike cooperative. A lot of tools are good to have, but some things are really m

pierce

if I was going to build a surly, it would be an ogre, heh, but setup more for street than trail.

xenologer

The brake levers on your list are for Linear Pull ie-Vbrakes, however the brakes you selected are Cantilevers. These two are incompatible.
I believe the hubs being for disk was also mentioned.

Considered; that for even more savings a good way to go is buying a donor bike on CL for its components?
(tho, I'd still want the wheels to be new)

Building up is fun, and its good to have a unique bike.
Dont feel the need to comply to the stock model. Imagine a LHT with these handlebars: https://store.somafab.com/somaeaglebar.html

Altbark

I take a hobby type approach to building up bikes. You can almost always find what you want in a built up bike at a cheaper price. But you miss out on the fun of putting a package together and building up something with your own hands. The tourer derives additional benefit from being very familiar with their bike - something that can come in handy miles away from the nearest LBS.

Chains and cassettes should be bought new if at all possible along with some of the smaller bits and pieces that don't cost all that much. I'd make a concerted effort to find used drivetrain parts at a few bike shops before buying new. You can pick up some pretty nice and serviceable stuff if you look around. I use 9spd stuff on my Cannondale T1.

Keep the brake levers you've selected. I've got a set and they are very nice but change the brakes to V/ linear pull. Cantilevers are pita to set up. Linears brake very well and give plenty of clearence for fenders so long as you stay away from the mini Vs.

Enjoy the build. Al

An additional thought: I just buy generic cable housing and cables and cut to length. Works for me.

wtsgoodtime

Clearly I didn't pay enough attention to brake compatibility... thanks all for pointing out these issues.

Yes, part of the reason was to learn all of the components and tuning to be able to deal with problems while touring. The other part would be the fun and pride.

Back to the drawing board.

Thanks all!

jerseyJim

I purchased a stock LHT as a gift for my GF a few years ago with the intention of buying another one for myself right after. After taking her bike for a few rides I thought that it could use better brakes, a better crank and BB, I didn't care for the handlebars and I already had a saddle to put on it. For a reasonable amount more than the cost of these upgrades I was able to purchase a frame, pick all the parts I wanted and get a hand-made set of wheels to boot. I am very pleased with the results.

After several years my GF's LHT is in great shape and she has no complaints. I see that Surly has replaced some of the components on their stock model since we purchased ours. For example she has XT hubs and the new ones come with LX hubs. So I don't know if the comparisons still hold but I don't think you could go wrong either way.

clasher

I'm not sure that the upgrades to SLX level parts are really going to be noticeable on a touring bike loaded down with gear and a rider. Some folks say that deore parts are rugged because they are a bit heavier and use more steel in their construction. Two friends of mine crossed Canada on two LHTs and one built this up custom with choice parts and the other rode a stock bike... they both made it and neither suffered any appreciable mechanical issues so my opinion is that upgrading to SLX isn't really worth 400$ extra. I've built up plenty of bikes and it is a fun experience but if finances are the primary driver behind this purchase either buying a used custom build will give you the biggest bang for the buck. A 2x9 setup is fine for touring, a 42/28 give a lot of lower gears and 42x11 is more than high enough for touring. You're also likely to find lights/racks on used bikes and I didn't see any of those on the wishlist either.

wtsgoodtime

That is good to know that Deore listed as "entry level mountain bike" does have some advantages... maybe not weight, but durability and price. That is a good tradeoff to me.

Good information, thank you.