Rec. wheelbuilder in San Diego?
#26
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I don't dispute that a low spoke-count wheel and Deep V are bad combo when it comes to repair. But a 36H Deep V is a joy to work on in case of an accident. A hit that could cause large lateral displacement of an Open Pro rim would only result in a minor wobble on a Deep V rim. Often, all is needed is a minor touch-up to bring the wheel back to spec. Accidents will happen if you ride on the road. This is why you want the strongest wheel available without spending an arm and a leg. The difference is weight is only about 1 lbs low on the bike. I'd rather add 1 lbs at the wheel than 1.5 lbs at the waistline.
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Dang... passionate bunch, ain't we?
Personally, I'd build them like this: Deore LX or XT hubs, 36 DB spokes, Velocity Synergy rims. I don't think you need the asymmetrical version for the rear.
I'm hovering at around 225 pounds now that I'm working off my winter insulation. I have the rear wheel of my recumbent built this way (with a 32C tire) and it's perfect after a year's use. In my experience, well-built wheels like this expire through brake wear before they need truing. (See a previous wheel here: https://home.comcast.net/~jeff_wills/...s/rites042.htm )
I'd be happy to build your wheels for you, but it's been 17 years since I moved up here from Rancho Bernardo. Is the descent down Black Mountain Road towards Mira Mesa still fun?
Personally, I'd build them like this: Deore LX or XT hubs, 36 DB spokes, Velocity Synergy rims. I don't think you need the asymmetrical version for the rear.
I'm hovering at around 225 pounds now that I'm working off my winter insulation. I have the rear wheel of my recumbent built this way (with a 32C tire) and it's perfect after a year's use. In my experience, well-built wheels like this expire through brake wear before they need truing. (See a previous wheel here: https://home.comcast.net/~jeff_wills/...s/rites042.htm )
I'd be happy to build your wheels for you, but it's been 17 years since I moved up here from Rancho Bernardo. Is the descent down Black Mountain Road towards Mira Mesa still fun?
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#28
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Yeah baby, and it's still a b-hole to get back up the other way! There is a stoplight halfway down though that often ruins the fun, don't know how long that's been there. However my personal top speed ever of 50mph was achieved going down the west side of carmel mtn with a stiff santa ana at my back. Before I moved to Poway I lived down near Cowles Mtn, and my favorite downhill runs were Jackson or Fanita down towards Mission Gorge.
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Yeah baby, and it's still a b-hole to get back up the other way! There is a stoplight halfway down though that often ruins the fun, don't know how long that's been there. However my personal top speed ever of 50mph was achieved going down the west side of carmel mtn with a stiff santa ana at my back. Before I moved to Poway I lived down near Cowles Mtn, and my favorite downhill runs were Jackson or Fanita down towards Mission Gorge.
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#30
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Dang, if I can only get to 50, sounds like I need some new wheels!!
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I like Colorado Cyclist or Excelsports. One of them has free shipping on wheels.
Good choice on the wheel selection. I'd opt for Ultegra hubs though.
Good choice on the wheel selection. I'd opt for Ultegra hubs though.
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Are Ultegras really worth the (quite considerable, at least here in the UK) price difference over 105s (or Tiagras), for that matter?
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If you go to the Shimano tech docs you can compare the parts that are interchangeable between the two. The important stuff is shared between Ultegra and 105. There are design differences between them, but IMO doesn't offer any advantage (or quality difference) to one or the other. So to answer the question- probably not, unless you are matching other components, or have a finish preference. I use both interchangeably. All Shimano hubs will benefit from a complete service before putting them into use. They tend to be set up a bit tight from the factory, so grease and adjustment when new helps.
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It's important only if you want to brag about owning Ultegra hubs. Otherwise stick with 105s for the best value and performance. Clean every 5000 miles, and replace the balls every 10000 miles. With proper case, these hubs should run 50K miles.
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Just as I suspected - thanks for the info, guys.
It does seem that 105-level stuff represents really good value for money, and seems to be whereabouts in the road range where the big S stop using cheaper metals and plastics and use decent metal instead. Might not be quite as light as higher-end stuff, but sure seems durable.
It does seem that 105-level stuff represents really good value for money, and seems to be whereabouts in the road range where the big S stop using cheaper metals and plastics and use decent metal instead. Might not be quite as light as higher-end stuff, but sure seems durable.
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The rule of thumb that I've always heard is that Shimano quality plateaus at 105; going to Ultegra or DA just gets you lighter (and thus less durable). Perhaps also nicer cosmetics.
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OK, so if anybody's interested I'm comparing quotes from PW and LBS (FB's recommendation). I seem to have settled on Velocity Dyads.
Due largely to the shipping premium, PW comes in more expensive, but I can drop the price by cutting back on features.
What would you rather have? Locally handbuilt wheels with 105 hubs and black reflective/machined sidewall rims (this is for a commuter)? Or PW-built wheels with Tiagra and Silver rims?
Due largely to the shipping premium, PW comes in more expensive, but I can drop the price by cutting back on features.
What would you rather have? Locally handbuilt wheels with 105 hubs and black reflective/machined sidewall rims (this is for a commuter)? Or PW-built wheels with Tiagra and Silver rims?
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I always assign value to local stuff because of ease and recourse, so with similar specs (in terms of performance) I'd opt for a local guy. I don't know the detail specs, but I'd trade away other stuff (or pay more) for butted spokes, and better yet butted spokes with a gauge differential R/L.
I ONLY use plain gauge spokes for track wheels.
I ONLY use plain gauge spokes for track wheels.
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#39
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Thx, I was leaning local as well. I don't know how much difference 105 makes over Tiagra, but I really like the idea of reflective rims for a commuter.
#40
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https://sheldonbrown.com/harris/wheels/622.html 240 pounds plus the bike and load requires at least 36 spokes.
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https://sheldonbrown.com/harris/wheels/622.html 240 pounds plus the bike and load requires at least 36 spokes.
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Wheels are amazingly strong (if built right) and the extra 12% steel of 36 vs 32 spokes isn't a deal maker or breaker either way.
How you ride counts far more. Heavy riders especially should be alert to bad pavement, and lift out of the saddle letting the bike float under them with the knees acting as the suspension system. Also, avoid rocking the bike hard, when muscling up steep hills and sprinting.
How you ride counts far more. Heavy riders especially should be alert to bad pavement, and lift out of the saddle letting the bike float under them with the knees acting as the suspension system. Also, avoid rocking the bike hard, when muscling up steep hills and sprinting.
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WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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