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Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

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Old 04-05-13, 05:22 PM   #1
bob13bob
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Can you tell what kind of BB this is from these pics?

Cranks not spinning smoothly when rotating, even after I removed chain. This probably needs BB replacement? This will be my first replacement, would like to order a part before I remove cranks. Thanks for helping a newbie mechanic.


http://imgur.com/a/gKUyF
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Old 04-05-13, 05:32 PM   #2
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Remove the crank bolts/caps first and the spindle will be the give-away. Don't need to remove the cranks off the spindle.
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Old 04-05-13, 06:02 PM   #3
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Square taper.
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Old 04-05-13, 06:04 PM   #4
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Square taper.
Or maybe ISIS?
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Old 04-05-13, 06:06 PM   #5
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You have the cup & spindle type.
You can't really tell what length until you get it off and either measure it or read the "code".
Likely, one end is longer than the other (most often the crank end), so pay attention to which end is which.

IF you're lucky, you might be able to get by just cleaning/lubing and/or replacing the bearings.

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Old 04-05-13, 06:10 PM   #6
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You have the cup & spindle type.
You can't really tell what length until you get it off and either measure it or read the "code".
Likely, one end is longer than the other (most often the crank end), so pay attention to which end is which.
Yep, I missed seeing the lockring in the photos so it is a cup-and cone square taper.
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Old 04-05-13, 06:23 PM   #7
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I wouldn't be so quick to think it's cup/cone because of the inner teeth on the cups. The lockring might be some artifact of bad install. If it is cup/cone, then maybe another problem with bearing cages flipped the wrong way because too many non-drive side threads exposed. But it uses a notched tool as found on newer cartridge bearing cups. Increase the contrast/brightness simultaneously and you get the standard 22tooth cups. Could be that whomever installed it, had the wrong size (73mm width) for a 68 mm BB. And it couldn't achieve torque spec. So the installer put a lock ring. Whatever the spindle is, I would be suspect that it's the proper one for the bike and analyze how the BB -should- ideally be first, before buying any parts.
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Old 04-05-13, 06:26 PM   #8
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I've seen some low end bikes (Pacific I think?) that are cup & cone but still use the cartridge type removal tool.
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Old 04-05-13, 06:33 PM   #9
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I've seen some low end bikes (Pacific I think?) that are cup & cone but still use the cartridge type removal tool.
Possible, but the problem is the amount of threads showing on the non-drive side. The spindle/BB is too wide for the shell or something else is going on (e.g. bearings flipped around the wrong way) which might be why the crank doesn't turn. But it should be really easy to take the caps/crank bolts off. And we'll see. Most like a square taper. But again, I wouldn't trust the spindle length and chain line unless we took some measurements.
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Old 04-05-13, 09:23 PM   #10
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I believe that cyclone crankset is a low end cheap one that is found on cheap bikes. More than likely a square taper.
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