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Old 04-06-13, 02:30 AM   #1
igxqrrl
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Mounting cable stops to cannondale criterium -- square boss?

Hi!

I'm rejuvenating an old Cannondale Criterium with a mix of 5600 and 6600 bits. I'm running into a problem with installing a cable stop on the left side shifter boss. The right side shifter boss has a square plate, on which I can mount the cable stop. The left side does not have the square plate (see attached pictures: 1. left side, no square plate. 2. right side, square plate. 3. cable stop, expects a square plate).

Is there some kind of adapter I can get that will provide the square plate?

Thanks!

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Old 04-06-13, 04:17 AM   #2
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maybe you could drill out and adapt one of these?

http://www.cycle-frames.com/bicycle-...EVER-BOSS.html

thats meant to be a brazeon, probably for a steel frame.


edit: or maybe
http://www.cycle-frames.com/bicycle-...-AL-FRAME.html

which is meant to be epoxied to an aluminum frame.
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Old 04-06-13, 05:34 AM   #3
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What happens if you try to bolt the cable stop on without the square plate?
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Old 04-06-13, 05:43 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by igxqrrl View Post
Hi!

I'm rejuvenating an old Cannondale Criterium with a mix of 5600 and 6600 bits. I'm running into a problem with installing a cable stop on the left side shifter boss. The right side shifter boss has a square plate, on which I can mount the cable stop. The left side does not have the square plate (see attached pictures: 1. left side, no square plate. 2. right side, square plate. 3. cable stop, expects a square plate).


Is there some kind of adapter I can get that will provide the square plate?

Thanks!

There originally was a plastic plate that kept the shifter boss from unscrewing from the threaded rod that connect the R&L bosses together.
That plastic plate had the square boss. Yours is missing.
You may have to get the whole thing, such as here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bolt-on-Down...item43ba463825

As an alternative, if your cable stops have a curved base where they contact the down tube, just remove the original bosses entirely (use a 1/4" open end wrench to unscrew the left side from the internal threaded rod; they both can then be removed) and secure the stops to the frame using a screw long enough to pass thru both cable stops and the frame.
Good luck

Last edited by Ronno6; 04-06-13 at 06:09 AM.
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Old 04-06-13, 08:12 PM   #5
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Thanks all!

I can bolt on the cable stop without the square plate, and to be honest, I suspect that it will work just fine. The cable tension should keep the cable stop oriented in the proper direction.

That said, the bits that Ronno found looks like exactly what I need! I'm happy to pay $25 for the proper solution

Thank you!
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Old 04-06-13, 08:29 PM   #6
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Quote:
What happens if you try to bolt the cable stop on without the square plate?
looks like the one in the picture is ready to go, same piece as steel bikes, functionally..

My kluge idea : a riv nut, a long enough bolt through the stop..

then you have to counteract the forces wanting to turn the housing stop. , maybe the curved face is enough?

maybe a bed of JB Weld as you tighten it down .. and so, cures like that..

Guess it depends on your level of watch making vs tractor repair sensibilities..

Last edited by fietsbob; 04-06-13 at 08:33 PM.
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Old 04-07-13, 05:26 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by igxqrrl View Post
Thanks all!

I can bolt on the cable stop without the square plate, and to be honest, I suspect that it will work just fine. The cable tension should keep the cable stop oriented in the proper direction.

That said, the bits that Ronno found looks like exactly what I need! I'm happy to pay $25 for the proper solution

Thank you!
One note: you will only need to use the plastic plate from the one in the auction. That particular unit for sale is actually for the CAD3 and later frames: the little locating nubs on the bosses themselves will not align with the corresponding holes in your frame. The plastic plate with the square boss should fit just fine.
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